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Yet More Oil Questions


jeeper61
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The guy I help in the spring runs synthetic engine oil in his deutz dx110. He says he changes it once a year. Its really his only tractor so it sees a lot of work with planting and hay duties. He's been running it that way for five years and it seems to work for him.

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Only arguments to not i can see is 1 cost, which isn’t applicable in this case, and 2 if the synthetic would loosen up congealed crud. 

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26 minutes ago, vtfireman85 said:

Only arguments to not i can see is 1 cost, which isn’t applicable in this case, and 2 if the synthetic would loosen up congealed crud. 

I was given 4 cases of 2.5 gallon jugs 15W-40 they got rid of their diesel pick up.

Plan on running it in my 655 

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Just now, jeeper61 said:

I was given 4 cases of 2.5 gallon jugs 15W-40 they got rid of their diesel pick up.

Plan on running it in my 655 

I am no oil expert.. I just don't see how a higher quality oil is going to hurt an old engine. 

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I like the synthetic oil a lot but I don't like the extended changes.

GM has/had a real issue with their 3.6 V6 engines and long duration oil changes.

If you go by the computer telling you when to change, you will need timing chains or an engine.

There is nothing like a fresh oil/filter change for piece of mind.

I would love to run full synthetic and change when I normally do. (3,000 miles on vehicles)

But that gets costly.

The oil is better now because of technology. Don't be afraid to try it.

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If loosened crud from inside the engine was a concern I would just change out the oil filter, maybe even cut the old one open to see how much is actually trapped in the filter media itself.

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2 minutes ago, TractormanMike.mb said:

cut the old one open

A habit I got into years ago because it's a must on airplane filters. Since I have the tool I cut open most of my other filters.

Peace of mind is all I've ever found which I'm glad of. I did find little pieces of spalling lifters in my plane's filter so I changed all of them. About a third were bad, most likely due to disuse before I bought it, oil dripping off.

I had another tool which worked OK but this one is what I'm using now:

https://www.amazon.com/JEGS-80532-Filter-Cutting-Tool/dp/B007VR8C0U/ref=asc_df_B007VR8C0U/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312142020868&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12518506561569040624&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9002457&hvtargid=pla-570276520018&psc=1

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1 hour ago, Diesel Doctor said:

The oil is better now because of technology

Which is why I have no problem running 5000 miles between changes.  (And I mean 5000, as I try not to run over even 100 miles)

I was up in Cody, WY once, and it was time for a change, the dealer couldn't get to it that day, so I sh***ed bricks until I got home and had it done.

While off-brand oils may be excellent quality, the hard part would be finding a quart, if you needed to top it off out in the middle of BFE.

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I would refrain from making huge changes on an older engine especially if you can see any sludge buildup, a high detergent oil could at that point have a very detrimental effect 

If you have something high miles, hours, years and know the history I would stay with what works unless that product undergoes changes or becomes unavailable 

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52 minutes ago, hardtail said:

I would refrain from making huge changes on an older engine especially if you can see any sludge buildup, a high detergent oil could at that point have a very detrimental effect 

If you have something high miles, hours, years and know the history I would stay with what works unless that product undergoes changes or becomes unavailable 

This machine was well used when I got it has 4500hrs on it.

From new It had been used to clear snow from large parking lots and tree service work in the summer.

I had been using Delo 15W-40 in it,  my friend who ran produce cost to cost used an oil additive and when he had his oil changed on the road he made then fill the gallon jug with the oil "they owed" him from the change, he gave me all the gallons when he retired was about 30 so I have been using that year round. Ran out of that oil last change, winter was coming so I put Rotella 10W-30 in and now I have the Semi-Syn thought I would try it.

The Delo would of had detergent in it so I doubt there will be a real deference in the concentration.

This tractor turns the oil black quickly but it doesn't really use oil. 

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My only caution about putting full synthetic oil in an older engine with a lot of hours or miles is that the synthetics usually create oil leaks in certain areas....especially front/rear crankshaft seals. Just seems like the composition of the synthetic oil will allow it to get by lip seals that have been exposed to dinosaur oil all their life. I've seen several places generally not advise to use synthetic oil in an older engine for this reason. Other than that, I don't think you would ever have any problems.

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10 minutes ago, jeeper61 said:

This tractor turns the oil black quickly but it doesn't really use oil. 

I  sure some wizard can explain it , we had a pair of 4 B cummins here, the one in the backhoe would blacken oil instantly, the Dozer was clean when it came out. Both didn’t burn any noticeable amount both behave similarly, neither really smoked or blew by. 
at this point I just don’t worry about it. 

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6 minutes ago, vtfireman85 said:

I  sure some wizard can explain it , we had a pair of 4 B cummins here, the one in the backhoe would blacken oil instantly, the Dozer was clean when it came out. Both didn’t burn any noticeable amount both behave similarly, neither really smoked or blew by. 
at this point I just don’t worry about it. 

had a 466 doing that right after a major overhaul. finally traced it down to the freshly rebuilt inj. pump putting a small amount of fuel in oil

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1 hour ago, SDman said:

My only caution about putting full synthetic oil in an older engine with a lot of hours or miles is that the synthetics usually create oil leaks in certain areas....especially front/rear crankshaft seals. Just seems like the composition of the synthetic oil will allow it to get by lip seals that have been exposed to dinosaur oil all their life. I've seen several places generally not advise to use synthetic oil in an older engine for this reason. Other than that, I don't think you would ever have any problems.

I have tried to avoid doing that and generally only run full synthetic in the stuff that I got new or close to it.

I think the full synthetic helps with turbo life 

That why I was wondering about the semi-syn blends and if anyone had been running it 

But it maybe like pregnancy it happens with just a little bit.

 

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12 minutes ago, jeeper61 said:

I have tried to avoid doing that and generally only run full synthetic it the stuff that I got new or close to it.

I think the full synthetic helps with turbo life 

That why I was wondering about the semi-syn blends and if anyone had been running it 

But it maybe like pregnancy it happens with just a little bit.

 

I've never really heard much of a problem with synthetic blends causing seal leakage like I have with full synthetics. For some reason, it always seemed like the main problem with leaks goes back to Mobil 1. Don't know why other than the fact that Mobil 1 probably outsells just about all other full synthetics combined? Who knows? Don't get me wrong, I think Mobil 1 is a great oil as I use it in a few things I own, but it just seems to have a reputation for it.

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I love kind of been wondering about synthetic blends. I was given a pretty large amount of delvac 10-30 been tossing around the idea of running it in a 706 with a 282 and a couple of Doncaster utilities. We've been running 15-40 and I assume 10-30 won't hurt

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The part I don't like about semi synthetic is there is no regulation on the ratio, is it one eyedropper of synthetic or 50-50?

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Free is a game changer. I've used both, settling on good old Shell Rotella in everything. Good quality 80/90-140 wt for rear end lube, synthetics won't take the same abuse. Transmissions same, & transfer cases, factory recommendation. Synthetics were more expensive, and got to be a hassle finding them (the ones I wanted) so I went back to whats been used for practically ever. Found out you can gain a little by using synthetics, but it takes 7 lifetimes. I ain't got that long. Same with tractors etc., for rear ends & tranny's, use the mfg recommended. or equivalent. 

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If it is an engine that you run generic oil in, not a low ash 30 weight IH candidate, and it is the same grade that you use, run it, synthetic no synthetic doesn’t matter to me, my only criticism in some of these situations is subbing 0w40 or 5w40 in place of the factory recommended 10w30 or 15w40, there are newer applications that 5w40 is acceptable in engines that also take 10w30 or 15w40, but in a 1970-2000 engine that didn’t exist before 5w40 I would rather not 

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