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International 250 a backhoe


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I have an international 250a backhoe, engine runs fine everything else is workable however it is slipping in reverse gear. It will move in reverse on the level but as soon as you put power to it it will not move if you get off level it will not move at all does anyone have any idea where Parts could be had for this particular hoe as I don't think they're available and I hate too drunk this backhoe because the engine runs so good if anyone has any leads on Parts I would appreciate it. And if any of you guys have this particular hoe baby the transmission because I can't find parts as always thank you for your time

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You could search old posts on the construction side for similar machines and problems.

Sorry see your on this side, try expand to 260/270 machines I believe backhoes were offered with different types of transmissions is yours hydrostatic?

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As I recall the 250A industrial tractors and backhoes were based on the IH 574 AG tractor, so many drivetrain parts interchange but not all.

There were 3 transmissions. Hydrostatic, Torque Converter, and gear drive. We need to know which you have to point you in the right direction. Being a backhoe its more likely to have the torque converter  or hydrostatic transmission.

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Both will use hydraulic transmission oil in the transmission.

As I understand, linkage wear, damage, and adjustments on the shifting mechanism are a common issue on these with either transmission and can give the illusion of a transmission problem. Better check that first.

A hydrostatic transmission is like many lawn tractors use. Infinite speeds in forward and reverse based on how far you push the lever(or pedals) in either direction. Further you push lever the faster it goes. Returning the lever to center(neutral) stops the tractor. And has a high/low range shifter.

A torque converter transmission will have a 3 position lever on the dash or column. forward, neutral, and reverse. It will also have a shifter with 4 speeds, and a high/low shifter beside the seat. They have what looks like a clutch pedal which dumps hydraulic pressure, and kinda acts like a clutch pedal.

If you have a hydrostatic transmission  your best solution for troubleshooting and repair is to call Herrs Machine in Washington KS and talk to them. They sell a test gauge kit and can help you with troubleshooting and parts. Its possible you may have a simple problem like restricted filter or need pressure adjustments. These transmissions do not like dirty or contaminated oil. The hydro transmissions are extremely expensive to rebuild and you'd be better off replacing the machine if it came to that.

If you have a torque converter transmission parts are still available from Case IH for most of the transmission. But the dealer can't look up your parts because the AG version was slightly different from yours. You will need to buy an IH parts manual PC-250A, available used on Ebay or reprint from Jen Sales, and search individual parts by number online instead of by application. For troubleshooting you will need the IH service manual SM-TC, (there is one on Ebay now item# 313671017131), or the service manual for the whole tractor SM-250A (Ebay #371913129069). The manual will show you some pressure tests that can be done to troubleshoot.

Good luck! Keep us posted on your progress!

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1 hour ago, Binderdan said:

Both will use hydraulic transmission oil in the transmission.

As I understand, linkage wear, damage, and adjustments on the shifting mechanism are a common issue on these with either transmission and can give the illusion of a transmission problem. Better check that first.

A hydrostatic transmission is like many lawn tractors use. Infinite speeds in forward and reverse based on how far you push the lever(or pedals) in either direction. Further you push lever the faster it goes. Returning the lever to center(neutral) stops the tractor. And has a high/low range shifter.

A torque converter transmission will have a 3 position lever on the dash or column. forward, neutral, and reverse. It will also have a shifter with 4 speeds, and a high/low shifter beside the seat. They have what looks like a clutch pedal which dumps hydraulic pressure, and kinda acts like a clutch pedal.

If you have a hydrostatic transmission  your best solution for troubleshooting and repair is to call Herrs Machine in Washington KS and talk to them. They sell a test gauge kit and can help you with troubleshooting and parts. Its possible you may have a simple problem like restricted filter or need pressure adjustments. These transmissions do not like dirty or contaminated oil. The hydro transmissions are extremely expensive to rebuild and you'd be better off replacing the machine if it came to that.

If you have a torque converter transmission parts are still available from Case IH for most of the transmission. But the dealer can't look up your parts because the AG version was slightly different from yours. You will need to buy an IH parts manual PC-250A, available used on Ebay or reprint from Jen Sales, and search individual parts by number online instead of by application. For troubleshooting you will need the IH service manual SM-TC, (there is one on Ebay now item# 313671017131), or the service manual for the whole tractor SM-250A (Ebay #371913129069). The manual will show you some pressure tests that can be done to troubleshoot.

Good luck! Keep us posted on your progress!

binderdan, I hope I'm not screwing this up and I hope I'm not sending this twice. I definitely have the hydrostatic transmission as you can see from the photographs. I am in the process of changing the hydraulic filter. I will check the linkage while I am underneath the tractor, but I do not believe it's the linkage as when I shift the leverback I can actually feel it go into reverse. But I will check it anyway. I had a very good quote from a shop to repair this tractor and I would have done it but he reneged because he said he couldn't find parts. If parts were available I would have him repair the tractor. The transmission work is above my paygrade. I will let you know how I make out after I change the filter. As always thank you for your time Jim Fleming

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Binderdan. Thank you for that information, I definitely have the hydrostatic transmission. I am in the process of checking my hydraulic filter. I will also try and follow the linkage back and see if there's any adjustments or play and that linkage.

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Hi guys, an update on the 250 I pulled the hydraulic filter off today and it was horrible. The hydraulic fluid was Green and the filter had clumps thick stuff all over it. I know it is due to lack of maintenance and I admit that. I'm going to get a new filter and drain all the hydraulic fluid I can out of it. And see if that solves my problem. Then I'll try and determine where the water was getting into the system. But when I check the fluid with the dipstick it didn't appear to be bad. I just hope lack of proper maintenance didn't destroy my transmission I'll let you guys know if that was the problem as always thanks for your help and time

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37 minutes ago, Jim Fleming said:

Hi guys, an update on the 250 I pulled the hydraulic filter off today and it was horrible. The hydraulic fluid was Green and the filter had clumps thick stuff all over it. I know it is due to lack of maintenance and I admit that. I'm going to get a new filter and drain all the hydraulic fluid I can out of it. And see if that solves my problem. Then I'll try and determine where the water was getting into the system. But when I check the fluid with the dipstick it didn't appear to be bad. I just hope lack of proper maintenance didn't destroy my transmission I'll let you guys know if that was the problem as always thanks for your help and time

It depends on when you checked the dipstick. If it has set awhile like over night the better oil will come to the top and look fairly good. If checked shortly after it has been run the oil will look different. Been going though a problem with a L50 michigan  wheel loader. It would not move couple of days ago -30 out. Transmission had water in it, same thing dipstick looked good. Pull the plug and drained the oil and it looked like slush.  Warmed the pan up and put new warm (in the house warm) oil and it worked for one day. Pulled the oil again and still looked milky so another 5 gallons of new oil. Will see what happens tomorrow mourning.  Set the first bucket of old oil in the house for 4 days to let the water separate and will set it out side tonight to freeze the water (-26) and then pour the oil in another bucket.

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Timothy56 thank you for your reply, this particular backhoe set's more than it is used, I never quite thought of the water and oil separating but that makes sense. I am just hoping I didn't destroy my transmission, with parts unavailable the backhoe will be junk. But there's one thing I am glad of and that is that I don't live where it gets to be -26 degrees. Just joking but that's cold. As always thank you for your time and your response. Jim Fleming disguise I never quite thought about it but that makes sense the oil and or the reason when you check your fluid it looks good but that's because usually when I checked it it's usually after it's at a while and before I start it up so the water goes to the bottom the oil goes to the top and you get a good you look at your oil and

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Just a general observation about hydrostatic transmissions. If it works as it should going forward, then it is highly unlikely that changing the oil will correct your problem, although it sounds like a good idea based on your description. It sounds like a possible relief valve problem since only one direction is affected. As @Binderdan has said, a service manual and some pressure checks are likely in order. 

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Dirt_Floor_Poor thank you for your reply, I tend to agree with you that if it was getting enough fluid to work everything else it should have been getting enough fluid through the filter to go into reverse. I know I'm grabbing at straws, but that's about all I can do at this point since it doesn't seem like any parts are available for this machine. And no one really wants to work on it because no parts are available, and I tend to agree because my mechanical ability is limited. What doesn't make any sense to me is why the machine will move in reverse sitting on the level and not move in reverse when on a hill. But I must admit I don't understand how the transmission Works anyway. As always thank you for your time

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Does the machine have plenty of power going forward? If so, I would think that is a good sign. The reason it will move on the level and not up a hill is that something is weak/worn. It is not making full power, for whatever reason, and it will take more power to move up hill. I would wager that if and when it is diagnosed there will be a solution with the parts. Either new, used or maybe something involving a machine shop. There is almost always a solution. I agree that it will be difficult to find someone to work on it as there is no longer a dealership network to support this machine. If there is a local coffee shop where some farmers or contractors hang out in the morning, they may know someone who could tackle it. 

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The machine works as normal, in forward gear. Since I don't use the backhoe much at all I am thinking maybe I'll just drag the backhoe around with the Dipper arm as it is pretty easy to pull it back with no load in the bucket as always thank you for your time, Jim

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I bet that nasty oil is the root cause, possibly gunked up a relief valve as Dirt Floor Poor mentioned. For a couple hundred $ in oil and filters you could flush out that transmission and run it for a bit. The new clean oil might get any sticking parts cleaned up and worked loose. Worth a shot, and cheaper than replacing it or tearing it down.

Also keep in mind that the transmission and differential all share oil with the hydraulic system. Meaning if your transmission is filled with water and nasty oil then your hydraulic system is too. The pumps, valves, swing motors, and hydraulic rams. Just a matter of time before it damages them too.

If it was mine I'd flush the transmission and change the filters, refill with new oil(even if its the cheap black bucket oil from Tractor Supply for now). Run it for a while to get it warm, move all the cylinders a few times to get old oil out. See if conditions improve.

If it improves, flush it again after some more use to get the remaining nasty oil from the cylinders out. Then Check your transmission pressures with a gauge. You might be surprised.

If it doesn't improve you are only out $200-$250 in cheap oil and filters. Then decide if you want to replace the machine or drag itself around with the hoe. Or donate it to me 😉 lol.

Good luck! I'm rooting for you! 🙂

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I appreciate that, and I really appreciate your help also. Most likely will give that a shot. As I don't think I have any other choice. I read an article about another brand of backhoe and the fellow and the fellow said he put diesel fuel in the hydraulic system to clean it out any thoughts on that anyone as always thanks for your help and time

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  • 1 month later...

Hi guys sorry for the delay but I was waiting for a little bit warmer weather to work on this 250 as a friend and I have determined the tractor has a torque converter. Also when I drained all the hydraulic fluid out of the tractor the piece pictured came out. If any 1 can identify what this piece is I would appreciate it, I know that might be a tough thing to do being that it is so small but any suggestions will help. The pieces not very big maybe an inch long and half inch wide

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Super mechanic, that's what I was told by another mechanic, I am glad that you agree. As I know nothing about it thank you for your reply and your time. The more replies I get the more I will be inclined to see if this tractor can be repaired as always thank you for your time

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  • 2 weeks later...

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