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New to me 500C


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Hey all, my grandpa has a 500C that he got in a trade but never used it and has left it sitting outside for a few years.  It was already in rough shape when he got it and the outside elements haven't helped.  On the plus side it did start with a little either encouragement and idled surprisingly well.  But when I moved it the left side clutches wouldn't disengage.  When I lifted the bucket I was also sprayed in the face by a burst hose on the bucket......

I wanted to use it as I have some land I need to clear so I started talking to my relatives to make sure they didn't mind me borrowing it for a while.  Whelp long story short its amazing how many people would love to use a fully functional dozer and have agreed to pay for all needed parts and I supply the needed labor.  So my first order of buisness is to replace anything rubber and flush all the fluids and change all the filters.

 

So with that in mind ive started researching and putting together a list.  I trolled through the archives and think I have a accurate list of part numbers and items that are needed but wanted to list here to confirm and also ask a few questions.

The serial number on the dozer is 4070006C003315*, if my research is correct this would make it a 1972 correct?

It is a 3 Cyl diesel with a block casting of 3 055 000 R1, there is a tag on the engine that has made in Germany stamped into it.

Oil Filter Wix 51768

Fuel Filter Primary 33373 Wix

Fuel Filter Secondary 33472 Wix

Transmission Filter 51452 Wix

Hydraulic Filter 51662 Wix

Air Filter 46389, 46376 Wix

The engine should be good with 15-40W oil but the transmission and hydraulics take "HYTRAN"

I called my local IH dealer and was wonderfully informed that the HYTRAN he sells is better than the old version and that he is also the only person that sells it.  I know im going to ask a loaded question but ill ask it anyway.  Is HYTRAN really the only oil that can be used or is there a equivalent that won't make me have a heart attack when I look at the price tag?

 

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4 hours ago, Tanker916 said:

From what I can see they all look to be in decent shape.  I’m going to try the old unstoppable force meets immovable object next weekend to try to unstick the left side clutches.

The 500 C used essentially the same model D-155 diesel engine, as the IH 385 & 395 utility tractors, so Case IH should be able to help with engine parts too. The earlier 500 and later 500 E were tough little tractors and there a quite a few still "earning their keep" like your 500 C!

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6 hours ago, Tanker916 said:

From what I can see they all look to be in decent shape.  I’m going to try the old unstoppable force meets immovable object next weekend to try to unstick the left side clutches.

Wait for mmi to chime in, pretty sure the steering components were a bit different design than the other IH crawlers that many suggest pulling up to a rock or stump

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  • 2 weeks later...

So a update and a new problem.  Got it home to IL and fired it up and lifted it’s bucket but when I tried to move it nothing.  Is there a safety catch somewhere that I’m missing?  When I pull the lever to move nothing occurs the motor doesn’t bog down and the dozer doesn’t even jolt.  Granted it was also 15 degrees f outside.

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  • 3 months later...

Okay so figured out why it wouldn't move, would help if the transmission fluid wasn't so contaminated with water that the water froze.......

Several flushes latter and it moves around fine.  Im rebuilding the electrical and have put a new alternator and starter on it and am trying to put a new voltage regulator and starter relay.  I have found a new regulator https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Farmall-503_Voltage-Regulator-12-Volt_1031060M91.html but can't for the life of me find a new relay, does anyone know where I can find one or know of a newer version I can use?  I looked at the drawings in the service manual and it seems like the relays only job was to prevent the starter from engaging when the engine is running.  "Disconnect the contacts when 4V is in the line".  If that is the case could I just bypass it altogether?

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  • 2 months later...

I have rewired the entire dozer and put a light bar inside the cab, holy smokes is that sucker bright, ill put pictures of it up tomorrow.  Im glad the Army instilled a need to PMCS a vehicle before use because I saw the bull gear cover had exploded and the nut on the shaft was 3/4 off.  I was able to tighten it by hand and limp it over to the garage.

To say the carnage was extreme would be a understatement....... If I had to say something positive it is everything came apart relatively easily and as well as go back together.  I have been able to replace everything except for the bull gear cap. 

Does anyone know where I can find one or something more readily available I can replace it with?

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Oh no, I went through the same thing with my 500c.  Someone had replaced the roll pin that held the castle nut with a cotter pin and it had sheared off. Once the preload is off the bearings the rollers go through the gears and Carnage results. This was 20 years ago but I wound up having to get a new bull gear and used final drive case.  General Gear has some of the parts and may be able to find a used cap for you. 

Short of that, decent machinist should be able to make one for you fairly cheaply.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

Wow time fly's when your having fun.......

Got the repairs complete, ill post pictures of the dozer tomorrow.  Replaced all the bearings and pinion shaft.  The bull gear was actually salvageable.  That solved the movement problem but not the turning problem.  The steering clutch on the right side was seized and refused to come loose.  I tried the unstoppable force meets immovable object trick and all it did was either stall the engine or dig the right track into the ground.  Pulled it out and o boy was that sucker corroded.  

Got them all apart and cleaned the gears and housings and ran into a unexpected problem when putting the clutch pack back together.  The friction and metal discs fit and move perfectly but the last friction plate won't touch the interareal gears teeth.  Is there a trick im missing to precompress them?  Am I supposed to leave one of them out until they wear a little bit?  Take the metal band off the internal gear?

 

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Nice to hear you are having good luck with it!

DWF

 

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You really are concerned with the stack height so you'll need to leave the last one off, I take it it's getting painted IH red as you go 🙄

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