AngrySailor Posted January 9, 2022 Author Share Posted January 9, 2022 Liner honing rn. The second engine was f-cucked... worn liners and overheated all out of round and rusty. AND THAT ENGINE RAN! Got ONE serviceable liner from that engine... the other engine had five nice sized liners however one (pictures below) has a tiny crack at the top register. The one good liner from the second engine makes 6 IF I use the cracked liner. To me this almost looks like it happened at install, these liners aren’t known to crack there as far as I know? It’s only on the thin lip of the flange and doesn’t propagate inwards beyond the lip. Think I’m done for today, was at the clutch pretty late last night. Hopefully start on machining the input shaft tomorrow. Gotta find a Chevy throw out bearing in my shed... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DT Fan Posted January 9, 2022 Share Posted January 9, 2022 I love this thread! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardtail Posted January 9, 2022 Share Posted January 9, 2022 Looks like crack has traveled a little and could chunk out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngrySailor Posted January 10, 2022 Author Share Posted January 10, 2022 13 hours ago, hardtail said: Looks like crack has traveled a little and could chunk out That’s what make me think it happened at install... it’s supported once it’s seated in the block. The fire ring seals on that section also. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
just Dave Posted January 10, 2022 Share Posted January 10, 2022 Man that cast iron dust sticks to a lathe like glue. You arrrrr moving rite along...cool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngrySailor Posted January 10, 2022 Author Share Posted January 10, 2022 8 minutes ago, just Dave said: Man that cast iron dust sticks to a lathe like glue. You arrrrr moving rite along...cool Thanks Dave, we’re having a blast. Piston rings and gaskets should arrive this evening or tomorrow at the latest. Going to look for a scrap axle or something this morning to make the input shaft from. Heading to the shop after another coffee or three... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngrySailor Posted January 12, 2022 Author Share Posted January 12, 2022 rings and gaskets arrived. Had to work on some other stuff last couple days. Hopefully got those jobs about finished up and should be gone this morning. I’m fighting with a Massey Harris pacer that needed carb, wiring and ignition work. It’s running but gotta clean the carb again and recheck float level. It runs wonky. Then I’ll be getting at the input shaft. I picked up a junkyard axle to splice the two together, hopefully I can cut and drill it with carbide... got the pacer running. Distributor advance was seized, distributor was seized in the block/holder and timing was out, bad condenser too. Runs ok now. Maybe tomorrow I can work on the Detroitson... rough few days for my own projects... 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngrySailor Posted January 17, 2022 Author Share Posted January 17, 2022 So my truck has been here since Friday evening, spent the night in a friends barn and got drove home by snowmobile Saturday evening when the storm finally let up. Now the truck is plowed in pretty solid. Heading there now with a big tractor to recover it. Went off the road at maybe 5mph, real soft landing just couldn’t even see hardly past the hood. What a mess it’s been up here! That’s why no progress on the Detroitson. Hopefully this evening I’ll get to the shop and finish the input shaft... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jingles1928 Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 That sucks. Love the build. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngrySailor Posted January 17, 2022 Author Share Posted January 17, 2022 43 minutes ago, jingles1928 said: That sucks. Love the build. Thanks! The truck is out and home. No damage but didn’t really care anyways as it’s on its last legs. Frame is soft real bad... might take it easy tonight then get after the input shaft serious tomorrow. Scored a nice shaft from a rig differential might work better... gonna be fun either way! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustred Posted January 18, 2022 Share Posted January 18, 2022 where do u live? just went through that wild blizzard here yesterday. today quite and sunny. darn near was stranded in the field feeding cows as it was blowing in faster than could keep up plowing the snow. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngrySailor Posted January 18, 2022 Author Share Posted January 18, 2022 46 minutes ago, rustred said: where do u live? just went through that wild blizzard here yesterday. today quite and sunny. darn near was stranded in the field feeding cows as it was blowing in faster than could keep up plowing the snow. Eastern canukistan my rusty fren. Input shaft in the works today... 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngrySailor Posted January 18, 2022 Author Share Posted January 18, 2022 Press together and weld tomorrow. 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustred Posted January 18, 2022 Share Posted January 18, 2022 2 hours ago, AngrySailor said: Press together and weld tomorrow. nice to see ur getting to it and at it, cause if you dont get to it and at it you wont get at it to get to it! lol. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngrySailor Posted January 19, 2022 Author Share Posted January 19, 2022 Heading to the shop soon here, double check my measurements then press it together and prepare to weld. Gotta figure how I want to cool it... maybe fire blanket or set up a steel bucket with some sand. Looking at 600* preheat and slow cooling. Haven’t decided if I’m going to TIG it with mild steel filler which would be the process for TIG welding 4140 or stick weld it with 7018. It will require multiple passes regardless of which process I use also. Man was that some tough steel to machine! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DT Fan Posted January 19, 2022 Share Posted January 19, 2022 We welded quite a bit of 4140 at Maytag. Eutectic 680 was the rod of choice. I think 7018 would be a good choice, never tig welded any I can remember. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nepoweshiekfarmalls Posted January 19, 2022 Share Posted January 19, 2022 47 minutes ago, AngrySailor said: Heading to the shop soon here, double check my measurements then press it together and prepare to weld. Gotta figure how I want to cool it... maybe fire blanket or set up a steel bucket with some sand. Looking at 600* preheat and slow cooling. Haven’t decided if I’m going to TIG it with mild steel filler which would be the process for TIG welding 4140 or stick weld it with 7018. It will require multiple passes regardless of which process I use also. Man was that some tough steel to machine! Will you need to turn the weld down in the lathe to ensure balance? Or is that an issue? Enjoying this project, thanks for sharing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
just Dave Posted January 19, 2022 Share Posted January 19, 2022 Have you considered shrink vs press. I like the TIG choice to avoid those darn BBs and better heat control I click thank you on pictures because they are a pain to post so thanks. It looks like you did two stub shafts and a coupling out of an old cylinder rod. I have been using a cooking oven for preheat and controlled cooling, only about 500 Deg though. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngrySailor Posted January 19, 2022 Author Share Posted January 19, 2022 5 minutes ago, DT Fan said: We welded quite a bit of 4140 at Maytag. Eutectic 680 was the rod of choice. I think 7018 would be a good choice, never tig welded any I can remember. ER70S which is mild steel filler is recommended for TIG welding. 7018 or 8018 seems common also due to being a low hydrogen electrode, haven’t used eutectic 680 before... I’m leaning towards TIG as my 7018 has NOT been stored properly as in a rod oven so moisture absorption is an issue which would introduce hydrogen to the weld... 7 minutes ago, nepoweshiekfarmalls said: Will you need to turn the weld down in the lathe to ensure balance? Or is that an issue? Enjoying this project, thanks for sharing. thanks and yes, the welds will need to be machined smooth not so much for balance but there will be a sliding sleeve surrounding the shaft running on bronze bushings I think is the plan. This will slide axially to operate the clutch release. Hopefully with proper post weld cooling the weld won’t be too hard. Worst case I have somewhere a crappy homemade tool post grinder that should put a decent finish on a hard shaft. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngrySailor Posted January 19, 2022 Author Share Posted January 19, 2022 5 minutes ago, just Dave said: Have you considered shrink vs press. I like the TIG choice to avoid those darn BBs and better heat control I click thank you on pictures because they are a pain to post so thanks. It looks like you did two stub shafts and a coupling out of an old cylinder rod. I have been using a cooking oven for preheat and controlled cooling, only about 500 Deg though. Yeah they should go together pretty easy with a little heat. I landed at right around 0.002” interference on those stubs. You posted while I was writing the last reply but ya, leaning towards TIG for reasons above also. We were also talking about using the hone oven. Heat to 600-650 with oxy/acetylene, weld, post heat then wrap in fibreglass cloth, place in the oven at 500 and reduce the heat over time. oh, that stub coupler is made from a transport trucks pinion shaft. Tough stuff to work with! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
just Dave Posted January 19, 2022 Share Posted January 19, 2022 I reworked plastic injection mold parts for worn out mounting holes. We used stainless filler in that application because it does not absorb the high carbon into the puddle as we had to redrill and retap after filling worn threads 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngrySailor Posted January 19, 2022 Author Share Posted January 19, 2022 Pushed together nice, used a little heat and a little convincing. Going to mock it up and double check my length as it was all taken by measurements. Much easier to fix before it’s welded... 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngrySailor Posted January 19, 2022 Author Share Posted January 19, 2022 Test fit done! Numbers worked out, the clutch spline is ~1/4” past the back of the disc splines and the pilot is at a nice depth! WOO HOO!!! 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngrySailor Posted January 19, 2022 Author Share Posted January 19, 2022 This is the original clutch release fork. It just rubbed on a hardened washer on the Fordson clutch basket but also ran in the engine oil. Planing to make a sliding sleeve over the input shaft riding on bronze bushings with a Chevy throw out bearing against the clutch. I’m thinking I might dowel pin the sleeve to the clutch fork loosely to stop it rotating which would then allow me to drill an oil hole in the top between the bushings then attach a nice old brass drip oiler to where the old crankcase breather was and run a copper drip tube down to lube the bushings... not sure 100%, I’m winging it! 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
louie figone Posted January 20, 2022 Share Posted January 20, 2022 Angry Sailor, I love this project! 👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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