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Fordson F “Project X”


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superb! looks like a good canola packer! maybe   could  have replacement roller for the front and rear wheels widths. ha ha dreaming also.  excellent job.🦾 too bad Henry didnt see his tractor now. lol.

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In my opinion, this is one of the greatest builds that I've been able to read & follow on this forum!  Well done sir, this thing is great!  Love the test drives & burnouts in the grass!! :D

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Thanks everyone! It’s not quite as loud as expected but the phone video really doesn’t come across very well. I also didn’t max out the revs in the video. I’m sure I can’t load it hard enough either to really make it sing!
 

I checked no load governed speed after and it’s scary... it’s set at 3000 rpm which is a bit much. The manual calls for 2650 however I have a 6v53 from a fire truck that is turned up to 3200. The bottom end can take that but I’m pretty sure that engine has stiffer valve springs to handle that. I may dial it back to 2800 just so I know I can pin the throttle and not have an issue. Also while Letting it run after the video cylinder 2 exhaust temp dropped off to basically nothing but wasn’t smoking as if it wasn’t firing fuel, clear exhaust so I’d say that injector wasn’t firing. The injectors are a bit of an unknown, they were freebie NOS injectors a fella gave me. There is also a small filter at each injector inlet fitting which I’ll check. Funny thing is the temp came back up just before I shut it down.
 

Another issue is the starter is 24v. We weren’t sure of this until we tried to start it. The previous owner of the engine thought it was 12v but I’d say he was mistaken. I’m going to see if a pair of fairly small batteries will start it.  It starts easy so might get away with it. Charging 24v will be an issue. I think because we’re not using any other electrical what I may do is put an isolation switch between the two batteries and wire a three way switch to an alternator or generator (have an old 12v generator around somewhere) and only charge one battery at a time when running.

 Going to work on the battery and hood/fuel tank this week, need a proper throttle and shut down linkage too. 

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Great to see the old girl under power!! That's got to be a feeling of accomplishment and flat out fun. Thanks for the videos. 

As for charging, you could probably just charge the batteries in the shop since they will only be needed for starting. You could sit a couple batteries on a two wheel dolly and then connect them to the starter temporarily with an Anderson connector. If you are set upon having batteries and a charging system on board, you can do as you mentioned with a switch between the batteries and a double throw switch to select a battery. There are probably other ways to do this but this is probably the easiest. 

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50 minutes ago, 12_Guy said:

Great to see the old girl under power!! That's got to be a feeling of accomplishment and flat out fun. Thanks for the videos. 

As for charging, you could probably just charge the batteries in the shop since they will only be needed for starting. You could sit a couple batteries on a two wheel dolly and then connect them to the starter temporarily with an Anderson connector. If you are set upon having batteries and a charging system on board, you can do as you mentioned with a switch between the batteries and a double throw switch to select a battery. There are probably other ways to do this but this is probably the easiest. 

Yeah we had thought about batteries on a cart, it would just be nice to be able to start up if you’re away from the cart. I’m going to try two 350cca 12v batteries and see if that’s enough. They’re small enough to fit behind the engine and in front of the steering box, basically sitting on top of the bell housing which is where I had planned to put one larger 12v battery. Not too worried about charging system if that will start it a good few times we can just charge in the shop every once in a while. I also have an antique Onan generator I take to shows which can charge 12v also so we could top off batteries at the show if necessary. 
 

working at the fab shop Today, pops going to stop by and use the shear and press break this afternoon to start on the hood/fuel tank. 

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3 hours ago, Rawleigh99 said:

Well done! That is awesome. I think you'll still have enough horsepower for the Fords and even at the reduced RPMs. LOL This has really been a fun build for the rest of us. I hope you enjoyed it as much!

Thank you! Can’t want to finish the details and pull into a show with it. Working on sealing some radiator leaks tonight. Thea epics are the stand pipe/over flow tube from the radiator. Bulged and frozen so we removed it and plugged the hole and the ends of the pass through hole in the core. Letting the sealant set and see if she’s a little more water right tomorrow. Off to bed, duty calls in the am! 
 

oh.. here’s a little pavement spin for yas. 
 

 

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49 minutes ago, Rawleigh99 said:

I want to see the pavement spin after dark with sparks!!

Sure! I would have kept going but I forgot to take it out of “drift mode” and was sliding close to my friends old FIAT tractor to my right. Otherwise would have really let loose. 

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Radiators and manifolds are the hard parts to get these days for a fella restoring a Fordson... there are some remanufactured parts but the days of a cheap original running Fordson are gone. I’ve ordered two new radiator cores and had them ear marked for restoration tractors but if this rad doesn’t seal, we’ve come this far I guess she’s getting one...

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I have made overflow tubes similar to that out of rigid copper tubing. If you have threads tapped into the radiator tank it is pretty easy. Find a brass fitting that is the right thread, bore it to fit the tube, cut off whatever you don't need  and solder it to the tube in the right place. I normally use a flare or compression male adapter. 

I have also soldered shut both ends of a leaky tube in the core. 

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The problem is the tube in the core which the overflow tube passes through is not water tight either. I’ve plugged that tube from the top (I can just reach in there to access it) and from the bottom by putting tapered plug with sealant on it up Through the overflow tube plug hole. That will isolate that tube from the water, we won’t have an over flow but it’s not an issue, the cap doesn’t hold pressure and the top tank is large enough to leave some room for expansion. I can hardly get heat in the thing as it is even with 180* thermostats she’s cold blooded unless you idle her up Fully block the rad off with cardboard. I also don’t want to remove the top or bottom tanks from this Core as I’ve not had much success disturbing them, they’re very fragile at this age and I’ve taken them apart before to repair a couple tubes and you just create new leaks after reassembly. They’re seamed tubes and the solder joints fail with any flexing. 
 

also not sure if I mentioned it but I was having some issues with rough running and cold EGT’s at random cylinders. I figure the issue is the small fuel volume and (temporary) small feed line to the feed pump. The fuel tank gets to coolant temperature and the restriction feeding the pump must be enough to allow the fuel to boil in the line causing the pump to cavitate which then aerates the return fuel making bubbles in the tank which then go to the pump and so on. The problem gets worse and worse once it starts. The new tank will be larger, with proper sized lines and the return will be at the bottom and below the fuel level so it shouldn’t foam things up as much. Working on the tank now, handy having a big shear and press break just around the corner...

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12 minutes ago, rustred said:

was just wondering how long this fordson sat before u found it? going by the rear tires rusted out , ur gonna have a flat soon ! lol.

At least 20 years at my uncles farm, I’d have to ask my surviving uncle where they pulled it from but I believe it sat there for a long while as well. Not sure the history of it really either. It has home made extension rims cut from regular back rims welded to the inside of the normal rear wheels. Extensions usually bolt on to the outside. It also has those goofy wide front wheels which I bet had less on rubber tires at some point. The worm wheel shows the most wear I’ve ever seen on a Fordson and the steering box was worn to the point that they scabbed a pick up truck steering box on in front of the original steering box. That’s why the pitman arm was cut off the original box. She spent a lot of time pulling and none on the belt. The PTO gear shows no wear and you can’t fit a belt pulley with the rims widened to the inside. We’re thinking maybe industrial or airport use? Possibly golf course pulling gang mowers? There must have been a width constraint for them to have put the extension wheels inside... if only it could talk...

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5 hours ago, AngrySailor said:

She spent a lot of time pulling and none on the belt. The PTO gear shows no wear and you can’t fit a belt pulley

->  Possibly golf course pulling gang mowers?   <- 

if only it could talk...

I think you have hit the nail squarely on the head. It looks a lot like a Fairway-12 tractor. Your description of the wear patterns seem to confirm this use. 3FE42ABC-181F-4E31-B783-9889914D34FF.thumb.jpeg.91d4a291fdb3a74557207c31147ab475.jpeg

Looks familiar no??

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3 hours ago, 12_Guy said:

I think you have hit the nail squarely on the head. It looks a lot like a Fairway-12 tractor. Your description of the wear patterns seem to confirm this use. 3FE42ABC-181F-4E31-B783-9889914D34FF.thumb.jpeg.91d4a291fdb3a74557207c31147ab475.jpeg

Looks familiar no??

Nice. I have a ‘27 Fordson F fairway with WK wide rims gotta find some pics. It was used on “Oakland's golf course” in Niagara Falls and was technically owned by Sir Harry Oakes, who died “under suspicious circumstances” burned to death in his hotel bed in Cuba back in the ‘50’s maybe? There’s a Wikipedia article about him. I have his tractor...

 

Nice, On my project list soon is a McCormick 10-20, 1928. Pops always wanted one and we got it last year. Needs magneto tube up and should run. 

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3 hours ago, 12_Guy said:

I think you have hit the nail squarely on the head. It looks a lot like a Fairway-12 tractor. Your description of the wear patterns seem to confirm this use. 3FE42ABC-181F-4E31-B783-9889914D34FF.thumb.jpeg.91d4a291fdb3a74557207c31147ab475.jpeg

Looks familiar no??

Here’s pops’ 10-20. Can’t find a pic rn with the sheet metal on though 

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Thanks for taking us along on this build. I have enjoyed following this project. It reminds me of times gone by.

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A few years back I machined front and rear mounting/adapter plates for a fella I worked with. 

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We put a 401 GM V6 gas engine from a New Idea Uniharvester in his IH 2400 industrial. I thought the factory manifolds made it look factory, but he built Stainless headers to accommodate the twin turbos in its future.

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Also, as a sophomore back in high school, my best friend was running the family farm after his dad passed away. His W9 McCormick windowed the block and a SBC was way cheaper and easier to find than going back factory.IMG_20210813_184841006.thumb.jpg.57f50326ff509f9287c793f1a879e947.jpg

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We were just kids trying to get it running again. He still has it. It's pretty crude but runs great and cheaper on fuel then the stock engine. It does 60mph if you are brave or dumb enough and has live hydraulics using the Delco power steering pump. I got to drive it just last August as the hick limo for his daughters wedding.

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13 hours ago, Dzldenny said:

Thanks for taking us along on this build. I have enjoyed following this project. It reminds me of times gone by.

KIMG0247.thumb.jpg.c4c08ffaa5ed91a55287e74fb7b502f0.jpg

A few years back I machined front and rear mounting/adapter plates for a fella I worked with. 

KIMG0248.thumb.jpg.8886154c9c13f062715d07a229e6e4ac.jpg

We put a 401 GM V6 gas engine from a New Idea Uniharvester in his IH 2400 industrial. I thought the factory manifolds made it look factory, but he built Stainless headers to accommodate the twin turbos in its future.

KIMG0249.thumb.jpg.b1c8d3fd84dfab5a00ca8648bb449d0a.jpg

 

Also, as a sophomore back in high school, my best friend was running the family farm after his dad passed away. His W9 McCormick windowed the block and a SBC was way cheaper and easier to find than going back factory.IMG_20210813_184841006.thumb.jpg.57f50326ff509f9287c793f1a879e947.jpg

IMG_20210813_184900313.thumb.jpg.9d4e60c2249251d88466f1371dd90f33.jpg

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We were just kids trying to get it running again. He still has it. It's pretty crude but runs great and cheaper on fuel then the stock engine. It does 60mph if you are brave or dumb enough and has live hydraulics using the Delco power steering pump. I got to drive it just last August as the hick limo for his daughters wedding.

That is awesome!

 

fuel tank surgery started today. Pressure is really on now. Confirmed that the local show is June 12th. Need tank, throttle and shut down linkages, battery tray, wheel patches. 
 

I ran her last night good and hot with sealant in the rad and she sealed up, still dry this morning. The real test will be later this evening I’ll fire it up and see if it starts leaking as it warms up. I think the expansion and contraction of the rad frame and core may cause new leaks... fingers crossed but she was not leaking when running yesterday and not a drop under her today...  Fordson house shipped one of my new rad cores yesterday but if this holds I’ll use it on another more original restoration. We have four more F models here and an English F we need to haul out of a local field still...

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Rad sealed up pretty good. One or two tiny drops but more than acceptable if it stays the same, might even improve with another bottle of sealant (there’s a lot of water in this thing)... Bud Trever making arts and crafts on the front logo... had a visitor today, a feisty sailor lady who lives near me and made contact through another forum. She jumped on the Detroitson and I think she may have ripped it harder than I did... wish I had a video! Got the hood/gas tank mocked up and have a game plan to start fabricating tomorrow. Gotta keep telling myself June 12th, June 12th...

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