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My Last Project


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I started this project many years ago but, it got set on the far back burner! Now that I'm getting into my 80s it's time to finish it. So hear are some pics that will be in a running progress report. This started about 10-12 years ago with a worn out 47 H and proceeded with a engine from a 1962 Chevy ll 4 Cyl. engine and a power glide transmission. Today I hope to prime the oil system with a drill running the oil pump. When I pulled the harmonic balancer off years ago, I didn't notice that there wasn't a bolt holding it on the crankshaft. Now Iwas going to put it back on and I see that the crankshaft is not drilled and tapped for a bolt ! How is one going to put it back on? You're not supposed to hammer on it .

I made my own frame rails out of 2x4x1/4" tubing and welded them to a 3/4" plate bolted to the transmission housing. More pics to follow.

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How deep is the hole in the crank snout?

You might be able to tap the hole.

Other than that I guess its just a press on.

Good luck with the project I am having to go through some of mine and decide what I still have time for as well 

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The hole that is there is like what was made with a center drill for turning on a lathe. Perhaps I can drill it out larger and tap it for 1/2" fine thread.

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My understanding is most of the early smaller gm motors, 350s included did not have balancer bolts, they were press on fit. Some 350s that were threaded were smaller bolts, and many brill them and rethread the crank for a larger bolt. I have one in my boat that I just put new heads, cam, intake and carb on, when turn the engine over to time, the bolt stripped out. Now I get to see if I have enough room in the boat to pull the balancer and rethread the crank. I believe the small bolts gm used were 7/16, I could be wrong on that, but most are going to 1/2 bolts

Mark

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Didn't know 4 cyl was an option on the early Chevy 11's

Early motors were not drilled and tapped for the harmonic balancer and lack of said tapped hole limits your pressing options, I would drill and tap, had a 283 that didn't have and I used a brass hammer to tap into place which I believe was an acceptable practice,  you may encounter a forged steel crankshaft 

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The front axle is a W4 or W6 I believe. The coupling is a heavy duty Dodge coupling. The steering gear box is off a Chevy pickup. I have all the parts to to make it into power steering. I have a steering column from a Kenworth truck I'll adapt to it.

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A shrink fit is what you are looking for,  it is like a press fit once assembled but when you install you warm it up so the hole grows you slip it on swiftly to the mark and hold for a couple seconds. The shrink fit is done. About 200 degrees should be plenty.  Have fun with your project!

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A

18 hours ago, augercreek said:

Will the heat ruin the seal?

A propane hand torch is plenty, right in the hole less than a minute BEFORE the hub starts to turn blue. If you have a old fashion 100 watt light bulb you could set it on that ( not out in wind and cool weather) about 30 min should do it. A normal buna rubber seal will not melt at 200 degrees. Put some silicone grease on your seal prier or engine oil if you don't have silicone grease.

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On 11/9/2021 at 1:02 PM, augercreek said:

Will the heat ruin the seal?

You were just heating the bore the balance, not the crank. There's enough metal in the crank to absorb the heat when you press it on before it hurts anything.  Crank cold, balancer hot.

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Well before I put it on the crank I have to get a speedy sleeve on it. Can you believe not one auto parts store has them ! They say not much call for them ! I find it hard to believe no one ever fixes the oil leaks there. So I ordered one off E-Bay, just another delay ! I think I'll go ahead and put the engine in place anyway, won't hinder installing the balancer any.

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4 minutes ago, augercreek said:

They say not much call for them ! I find it hard to believe no one ever fixes the oil leaks there

I find it easier to re-position the oil seal, ahead of a Speedi-Sleeve if there is room in housing / shaft to do so. That said I do use them from time to time. 

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More progress made as it rained and snowed all day. Got the engine in place. Had to drill out torque converter bolt holes as the new bolts are 7/16" and 1/4" too long. Cut the bolts off on the lathe with a mini grinder.

my last project 002.JPG

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So now that the engine is sitting in rails what are your opinions on motor mounts? Solid or on rubber? Here is a pic of where they will fasten on the block. The tail shaft has a single mount and is easy to do, I have a new one for it.

My Last Project 001.JPG

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I would think that you should make a solid motor mount similar in principle to a Chrysler biscuit style mount, with may a rubber washer/insulator between the frame and motor contact point, the stock trans mount should be fine if the motor is solid, because you don't have a driveshaft with universal joints I don't think stock car motor mounts would be good given the amount they move, when I was derbying and repowering with a SBC I would make a solid motor mount to the frame and used a  home fabbed trans mount with a 1/2 bolt with a hockey puck as an insulator

I have an old cat as well, Sammy, she showed up here as a stray 8 plus years ago, it was getting cold in the fall and she was getting thin, coaxed her to the garage, friendly cat, closer inspection she was fixed, we kept her around, great mouser, until lately, she seems to be mostly blind for the last year, gets around ok, doesn't catch any mice lately but I swear she chases them into the sump pump hole, she goes to the basement and after you find floaters, she makes a mess of getting cat litter in herself sometimes and spreads it around the house which is getting old, I hope she passes naturally before I have to intervene

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