Damaged 1486 hydraulics by mistaking open system for closed?

[Gmoney44]

I feel pretty stupid realizing this after owning my 1486 for 15 years but I guess better late than never. 265014U19559 is on the tag. I had Low pressure 3 years ago on my remotes, bought services manuals to troubleshoot/fix. I don't know much about hydraulics but with a manual and some curse words I can fix 65% of issues on my equipment.  Used 1st set of digits to reference serial numbers instead of after the U, Thought I had a Closed system. Rebuild MCV and changed pump, problem fixed. I Don't put many hours on this tractor. Last month bought a set of jd fold down disks to chop up my property. Reading disks manual it you says need a closed system to put remotes in float position for wings or it could damage tractor. Well after chopped for about 2 hours with remote bungee corded in float position I suddenly lost power to remotes, after looking over my manual again I now figure out I have a open system. Only getting about 750# max out of remotes. SO what all did I most likely fry and where's the best place to start looking? Any help would be appreciated for a illiterate shade tree mechanic. 

[ksfarmdude]

If you were in float position I highly doubt the disc mower had anything to do with it in float there's no pressure being applied Sounds like the problem was coming sooner of later regardless of mowing , I'd start out checking the pressure relief valve first then proceed to the pump for inspection sounds like maybe a blowed O-ring 

[ZG6E]

The float position should have a detent and shouldn’t require a bungee cord to hold it in. Are you sure that you weren’t deadheading the hydraulics in the down position the entire time?

[Gmoney44]

I had the lever in the down position,I thought that was float. Which put the wings in the down position.

[Jeff-C-IL]

The valves are double acting, with float.   Meaning: up raises the wings (or implement) with pressure, down lowers the wings with pressure (think a wing folded 180 over, you first have to push it up & over to unfold it), float is further down, clear to the bottom of the slot, and that allows the cylinder to release on all sides, letting the wing/implement drop freely.

If your lever linkages are worn, even pushing the lever clear into the float position can still have the spool stay in "down", rather than float.   This would cause the pump to stay under pressure.    I had to replace the "L hook" linkages on my 1486, (and bush the spool holes) because they were worn enough at only 4000 hours It would no longer go into raise or float.    

[hippy5488]

if u rebuilt mcv valve and put the pump behind valve in new it has nothing to do with rear remotes or 3 point

[Missouri Mule]

You should of been able to hear the tractor laboring if you would of been deadheading the pump as with float it does not. Sounds to me like you were not in float. 

[Gmoney44]

I'm pretty sure I was deadheading the pump,the remotes and hoses got pretty hot. Assuming I was,would the relief valve be the first place to start?

[1480x3]

On the 3rd set of those "L" hooks on my 1486, also rebuilt the holes in the spools once. I'm also guessing you were not in float. Swap relief valves if you have something else to swap with, quick, simple, and easy way to check that. If not cured probly need pump/sealing/o-ring repairs

[sd186man]

How do you guys like to rebush or repair the spool holes?

[bitty]

3 minutes ago, sd186man said:

How do you guys like to rebush or repair the spool holes?

I bought a set of carbon rods and welded a slotted hole for our 1586 once . Worked ok, been nicer today as I only had a stick welder back then

[Jeff-C-IL]

On 10/26/2021 at 12:00 PM, sd186man said:

How do you guys like to rebush or repair the spool holes?

I drilled the holes oversize and pressed in a sleeve from a roller chain.   Just knock apart a chain link and you have two sizes (inner sleeve and outer roller) for every chain size. Don't remember the chain size, or which piece I used, but the hardened rollers on chain make great sleeves to repair worn holes, if you can find one the right size.    I remember one fit the new L hook pin really well.    I think I actually did this "in place" on the tractor, only hard part is getting the right size drill for the bushing to press into (drill the hole out one drill step size at a time).  I used a C clamp to press them in.   Once they were pressed in, I used a cutoff wheel on an angle grinder to trim the excess length.     I ended up with a "better than new" hardened sleeve permanent repair.  Worked very well.  

I remember using the same technique to repair  the advance weights on a Oliver governor once....made the engine run much smoother! 

[Gmoney44]

Thanks for all help. New pump fix problem and then got the pleasure of replacing to multiple hoses after.