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1456 oil leak


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There's an oring on each end of the steel tube, # 30 in the parts diagram.  Remove the front oil cooler header, #7, replace the gasket & the two orings.  

A few things, I have the best luck w/ the original IH orange orings, p/n 343398R2.  Regular black orings just don't last or cut it, in my book.  Two, the oil cooler will tend to seep oil after the front header is removed.  If it is still seeping, or there is oil on the mating surface for that gasket, it will not seal.  It needs to be bone dry.  Three, the bottom bolt that holds the front header to the cooler, it is a bearcat to get at.  Hold your tongue just right, wrestle & drop your wrench a few times, and pinch your fingers.

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The hose hanging out the clutch housing greases the throw out bearing.

Rather than go up inside to reach the throw out bearing zerk, they extended it with a grease gun hose.

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9 minutes ago, Diesel Doctor said:

The hose hanging out the clutch housing greases the throw out bearing.

Rather than go up inside to reach the throw out bearing zerk, they extended it with a grease gun hose.

I'm no mechanic but that's the only sense I could make of it, thanks!

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1 hour ago, Nebraska1206 said:

There's an oring on each end of the steel tube, # 30 in the parts diagram.  Remove the front oil cooler header, #7, replace the gasket & the two orings.  

A few things, I have the best luck w/ the original IH orange orings, p/n 343398R2.  Regular black orings just don't last or cut it, in my book.  Two, the oil cooler will tend to seep oil after the front header is removed.  If it is still seeping, or there is oil on the mating surface for that gasket, it will not seal.  It needs to be bone dry.  Three, the bottom bolt that holds the front header to the cooler, it is a bearcat to get at.  Hold your tongue just right, wrestle & drop your wrench a few times, and pinch your fingers.

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How does #30 detach from #7?

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20 minutes ago, Farmer in training said:

How does #30 detach from #7?

As EJQ said, just twist & pull them apart.  Just the snug fit from the oring as it seals is what holds them together when they're not bolted to the engine.

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forget about the orings. get two of part no. 368548r1 quad rings to replace them. then when u put the bolt in that holds the tube u are probably going to have to shim behind the tab.u want the tube as straight in the bores as possible

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12 minutes ago, Nebraska1206 said:

How about a picture of the whole tractor?

I got the green light from the wife. What's it worth? They switched it over to one 12 volt car battery. Do they make a larger battery with more cranking amps that would work better? It starts ok now but im afraid once it gets cold she'd have to sit especially since the block heater has the cord yanked out. 

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I would get the original battery boxes for it and put the two long 6 volt battery setup back together if it was mine they have wider ones that fit in the boxes I think it was 4eh instead of 3eh maybe anyways, our 856 has this setup they are connected in series so they make 12 volts she starts really well in the cold even without ether.

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We use all 3eh’s too.  I have one 1066 with two much more expensive 12v marine grade batteries in it, and it starts good….just like the other ones.

that 1456 looks to have The Longest axles I’ve ever seen.  I replaced the cord on our 856’s block heater a few years ago, pretty common cord. 
Buy it 

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My dad's 966 that he use to have had one of the massive semi truck batteries on it the previous owner had installed it had a custom battery tray bolted to the right hand frame rail. That thing would be running before you let go of the key though the reman dt466b that it had may have been part of it as well. I miss that tractor.

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24 minutes ago, stronger800 said:

We use all 3eh’s too.  I have one 1066 with two much more expensive 12v marine grade batteries in it, and it starts good….just like the other ones.

that 1456 looks to have The Longest axles I’ve ever seen.  I replaced the cord on our 856’s block heater a few years ago, pretty common cord. 
Buy it 

My dads 1086 has long axles like that. They're nice when you run an in furrow plow with axle mounted hubs because then you have room to throw a dual on for digging or chisel plowing. The 5488 has shorter axles and we don't quite get the right measurement with the hub at the end of the axle but it works I guess

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15 hours ago, Farmer in training said:

I got the green light from the wife. What's it worth? They switched it over to one 12 volt car battery. Do they make a larger battery with more cranking amps that would work better? It starts ok now but im afraid once it gets cold she'd have to sit especially since the block heater has the cord yanked out. 

"Car battery" or a Group 31?

A single Group 31 battery has just as much cranking power as the two original style batteries, with half the connections and cables.

We've never had anything but trouble with the dual battery setup. Constantly getting on the tractor to a "click" or nothing at all. Constantly pulling the battery covers off to mess with the connections. Constantly replacing batteries and cables. Put on a single Group 31, and the problems went away. Wheels the D360 and D407 engines over like nothing, even in the coldest weather.

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1 hour ago, Matt Kirsch said:

"Car battery" or a Group 31?

A single Group 31 battery has just as much cranking power as the two original style batteries, with half the connections and cables.

We've never had anything but trouble with the dual battery setup. Constantly getting on the tractor to a "click" or nothing at all. Constantly pulling the battery covers off to mess with the connections. Constantly replacing batteries and cables. Put on a single Group 31, and the problems went away. Wheels the D360 and D407 engines over like nothing, even in the coldest weather.

I didn't look at it that close but maybe that's the case. It did start fine. I just talked to my dad a couple hours ago and he said the same thing you do. He doesn't line the two battery set up and if it's a legit set up to just leave it. But yea, I'm no expert on this stuff but they did convert it to two cables. 

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1 hour ago, Matt Kirsch said:

"Car battery" or a Group 31?

A single Group 31 battery has just as much cranking power as the two original style batteries, with half the connections and cables.

We've never had anything but trouble with the dual battery setup. Constantly getting on the tractor to a "click" or nothing at all. Constantly pulling the battery covers off to mess with the connections. Constantly replacing batteries and cables. Put on a single Group 31, and the problems went away. Wheels the D360 and D407 engines over like nothing, even in the coldest weather.

Do you have a brand and model that you recommend if I end up buying it?

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