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1688 with 1020 header


hardknocks
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Yes you will need that  pig tail.  It plugs onto new potentiometer,  then plug harness to it and your combine.

Part#87412210

20160827_195029.jpg

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1 hour ago, brahamfireman said:

What did it do before when you say it didn't work correctly?

Did you get a new pot with the rod conversion kit?

It would work about half a round and the. Pop up 5-6”. And then I would put it back on ground and it would do it all over again.   And sometimes it wouldn’t work that good 

I bought the conversion from a head rebuilder in my area.  And it had everything 

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22 minutes ago, ole 815 said:

Yes you will need that  pig tail.  It plugs onto new potentiometer,  then plug harness to it and your combine.

Part#87412210

20160827_195029.jpg

I have a plug now inline that looks like that one with the 3 pin weatherpack. And the 3 pin that hooks to combine. But I don’t know if it’s the exact same part number you are showing

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if u could figure out if the sensing arm is 14 degrees fore or aft u could use vise grips to hold it in place when adjusting the feeler pads. its alot easier with the tool. part no. 86985617  i carry one in service truck 75% of ahhc complaints ers fixed in very little time using this tool and 2 bolts. also make sure u unhook the assist spring on right hand end of head on sensing tube before adj.

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Do not use the pic as a guide, that pic was taken before the rod kit was completely installed and adjusted. Also that kit is for a 1020 paired up with a early 1440 twin stick. No electronics, mine is cable operated. Rod and lever kit made a big difference in response, really follows the ground now. Bonus is gets the cable out from under the header and all the dirt. Kit that I got did not have the tool @hippy5488 is talking about.IMG_20191023_094648035.thumb.jpg.eb3e06a8ac68e4b72a6afd0bfea19510.jpg

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the tool is a strap with a couple bends and holes for bolting to head and arm. it locates arm at 14 degrees fore or aft. depends if cutter bar is down or locked up. to make sure u have the full travel of cutter bar in sync with pot.

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Irregardless of angles etc, the important points are:

  1. The linkage moves freely throughout the motion as the header float flexes up & down
  2. The linkage is adjusted / pot rotated, etc so that the potentiometer outputs 2-3V when smashed on the ground, and goes up to 5-6V when the head is raised.  (Backprobe pin B to a chassis ground.)

If both of the above are true, the head sensing system is functioning properly.  You may still need resistors to cut down swing, or to adjust drop rates etc.

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Ok. I have no power to plug. Been chasing wires. And I’m on right side of cab. With panel removed  no mice damage  there is a relay. Which I swapped out and still nothing. The three wires go into a round 14 pin connector that plugs into a black box. I’m thinking the power is coming in through the black plug   Which I have no power at plug on any pin. Only power I find is coming into relay   But I can’t find any coming out of relay. Now I’m stumped powe is coming in at the two red wires with green strips

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On a 1688, the AHHC won’t function unless you are sitting in the seat with the separator and feeder switches engaged. It was incorporated into the operator presence/seat switch circuit on 44/66/88s.  

58604F26-5052-4B97-95A2-49E9C846C1E2.jpeg

FD9B34B1-348A-4206-BBCB-E9CE92ADC7D0.jpeg

F32C77C0-B336-4E92-B80E-1988846D65B7.jpeg

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40 minutes ago, SDman said:

On a 1688, the AHHC won’t function unless you are sitting in the seat with the separator and feeder switches engaged. It was incorporated into the operator presence/seat switch circuit on 44/66/88s.  

58604F26-5052-4B97-95A2-49E9C846C1E2.jpeg

FD9B34B1-348A-4206-BBCB-E9CE92ADC7D0.jpeg

F32C77C0-B336-4E92-B80E-1988846D65B7.jpeg

Ok thank you I will try that. I just had engine running but separator or head. Was on running

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There is no way to just change 1 of the two numbers with simple adjustments.   Here's what you need to do:

  1. Adjust the overall linkage to get 2V down, 6V up
  2. Purchase either CIH p/n 87412210  or Headsight's HP1-VRED.   These short pigtails include resistors that will cut down the voltage to 3-5V.  (note- both incluce "reversing" the swing, so you will have to swap A & C back at the sensor.

The only other way to "reduce the stroke"  is to lengthen one of the arms....looking at the last picture you posted, if you made a small plate that bolted onto the two holes in the arm at the back of the header, and had a hole further out so that arm on the pivot was longer, it should reduce sensor travel as well.   My guess is you would have to double the length of this arm to 1/2 the voltage swing.   IDK if this will even work- if there is enough room to bolt an arm on here.....just a suggestion.

CIH 1020.jpg

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