hardknocks Posted October 15, 2021 Share Posted October 15, 2021 Converted the cable to the upgrade rod for auto header height. And it doesn’t work at all. The cable worked but not correctly. I see where there is a adapter pigtail with resisters. Do I need this. Any help appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brahamfireman Posted October 15, 2021 Share Posted October 15, 2021 What did it do before when you say it didn't work correctly? Did you get a new pot with the rod conversion kit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ole 815 Posted October 15, 2021 Share Posted October 15, 2021 Yes you will need that pig tail. It plugs onto new potentiometer, then plug harness to it and your combine. Part#87412210 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardknocks Posted October 15, 2021 Author Share Posted October 15, 2021 1 hour ago, brahamfireman said: What did it do before when you say it didn't work correctly? Did you get a new pot with the rod conversion kit? It would work about half a round and the. Pop up 5-6”. And then I would put it back on ground and it would do it all over again. And sometimes it wouldn’t work that good I bought the conversion from a head rebuilder in my area. And it had everything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardknocks Posted October 15, 2021 Author Share Posted October 15, 2021 22 minutes ago, ole 815 said: Yes you will need that pig tail. It plugs onto new potentiometer, then plug harness to it and your combine. Part#87412210 I have a plug now inline that looks like that one with the 3 pin weatherpack. And the 3 pin that hooks to combine. But I don’t know if it’s the exact same part number you are showing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hippy5488 Posted October 15, 2021 Share Posted October 15, 2021 you need the pigtail wire to make it work on older combines. plus you need the little piece that comes with the kit that positions cutter bar in correct location to set the fingers under the head so they are set the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michigan No Till Posted October 16, 2021 Share Posted October 16, 2021 The little piece the holds the sensor tube? Have heard about this but never seen one. Wouldn't a couple of vise grips be the same, holding the tube stationary when adjusting the fingers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hippy5488 Posted October 16, 2021 Share Posted October 16, 2021 if u could figure out if the sensing arm is 14 degrees fore or aft u could use vise grips to hold it in place when adjusting the feeler pads. its alot easier with the tool. part no. 86985617 i carry one in service truck 75% of ahhc complaints ers fixed in very little time using this tool and 2 bolts. also make sure u unhook the assist spring on right hand end of head on sensing tube before adj. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardknocks Posted October 16, 2021 Author Share Posted October 16, 2021 I’m going check voltage from combine. And make sure it has power and go from there. I don’t know what your mean by 14. Degrees forward or aft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michigan No Till Posted October 17, 2021 Share Posted October 17, 2021 Believe the 14 degrees that @hippy5488is referring to is the position of the short lever that's welded to the sensing rod in the pic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michigan No Till Posted October 17, 2021 Share Posted October 17, 2021 Do not use the pic as a guide, that pic was taken before the rod kit was completely installed and adjusted. Also that kit is for a 1020 paired up with a early 1440 twin stick. No electronics, mine is cable operated. Rod and lever kit made a big difference in response, really follows the ground now. Bonus is gets the cable out from under the header and all the dirt. Kit that I got did not have the tool @hippy5488 is talking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michigan No Till Posted October 17, 2021 Share Posted October 17, 2021 86985617 # comes up as a strap? Anyone have a different part# for the tool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hippy5488 Posted October 17, 2021 Share Posted October 17, 2021 the tool is a strap with a couple bends and holes for bolting to head and arm. it locates arm at 14 degrees fore or aft. depends if cutter bar is down or locked up. to make sure u have the full travel of cutter bar in sync with pot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michigan No Till Posted October 17, 2021 Share Posted October 17, 2021 Do you really need the strap if ya are running a cable operated 1020? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
801486 Posted October 19, 2021 Share Posted October 19, 2021 Just be aware that sometimes the pigtail has wires switched. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hippy5488 Posted October 19, 2021 Share Posted October 19, 2021 the strap is only a tool that makes sure pickup fingers are set right for the 28 degree travel of cutter bar and pot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardknocks Posted October 19, 2021 Author Share Posted October 19, 2021 Thanks everyone. For your input. I’m still trying work it out. I’ll let you know how it goes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardknocks Posted October 20, 2021 Author Share Posted October 20, 2021 On 10/19/2021 at 9:23 AM, hardknocks said: Thanks everyone. For your input. I’m still trying work it out. I’ll let you know how it goes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardknocks Posted October 20, 2021 Author Share Posted October 20, 2021 So does all this look correct Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff-C-IL Posted October 20, 2021 Share Posted October 20, 2021 Irregardless of angles etc, the important points are: The linkage moves freely throughout the motion as the header float flexes up & down The linkage is adjusted / pot rotated, etc so that the potentiometer outputs 2-3V when smashed on the ground, and goes up to 5-6V when the head is raised. (Backprobe pin B to a chassis ground.) If both of the above are true, the head sensing system is functioning properly. You may still need resistors to cut down swing, or to adjust drop rates etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardknocks Posted October 20, 2021 Author Share Posted October 20, 2021 Ok. I have no power to plug. Been chasing wires. And I’m on right side of cab. With panel removed no mice damage there is a relay. Which I swapped out and still nothing. The three wires go into a round 14 pin connector that plugs into a black box. I’m thinking the power is coming in through the black plug Which I have no power at plug on any pin. Only power I find is coming into relay But I can’t find any coming out of relay. Now I’m stumped powe is coming in at the two red wires with green strips Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDman Posted October 20, 2021 Share Posted October 20, 2021 On a 1688, the AHHC won’t function unless you are sitting in the seat with the separator and feeder switches engaged. It was incorporated into the operator presence/seat switch circuit on 44/66/88s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardknocks Posted October 20, 2021 Author Share Posted October 20, 2021 40 minutes ago, SDman said: On a 1688, the AHHC won’t function unless you are sitting in the seat with the separator and feeder switches engaged. It was incorporated into the operator presence/seat switch circuit on 44/66/88s. Ok thank you I will try that. I just had engine running but separator or head. Was on running Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardknocks Posted October 20, 2021 Author Share Posted October 20, 2021 I’ve got voltage all the way down. 3.1volts. All the way up is 6.8 volts. How do you lower the top number Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff-C-IL Posted October 20, 2021 Share Posted October 20, 2021 There is no way to just change 1 of the two numbers with simple adjustments. Here's what you need to do: Adjust the overall linkage to get 2V down, 6V up Purchase either CIH p/n 87412210 or Headsight's HP1-VRED. These short pigtails include resistors that will cut down the voltage to 3-5V. (note- both incluce "reversing" the swing, so you will have to swap A & C back at the sensor. The only other way to "reduce the stroke" is to lengthen one of the arms....looking at the last picture you posted, if you made a small plate that bolted onto the two holes in the arm at the back of the header, and had a hole further out so that arm on the pivot was longer, it should reduce sensor travel as well. My guess is you would have to double the length of this arm to 1/2 the voltage swing. IDK if this will even work- if there is enough room to bolt an arm on here.....just a suggestion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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