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Popping sound from exhaust of 560


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13 hours ago, rustred said:

check the compression... most likely a burnt valve. why replace all them parts ? first things first.

Why do you have to criticize the guy for trying to fix his tractor? Just give your advice and be done. All he did was replace plugs and a cap and spend His money. 

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Just now, TB5288 said:

Why do you have to criticize the guy for trying to fix his tractor? Just give your advice and be done. All he did was replace plugs and a cap and spend His money. 

And I don't disagree with what you say is the problem.

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16 minutes ago, TB5288 said:

And I don't disagree with what you say is the problem.

waa waa i was not critizing him.  any time you run into engine problems compresion check is always first, then u replace parts , that is what i am saying.  so why didnt you tell him to check compression. 

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1 hour ago, rustred said:

waa waa i was not critizing him.  any time you run into engine problems compresion check is always first, then u replace parts , that is what i am saying.  so why didnt you tell him to check compression. 

IMG_1285 (1).JPG

Because you already told him.

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Sounds like exhaust valves either burned, warped, or not adjusted right. Check valves settings first, then go from there. My 560 ate one exhaust valve in a flash of fire out the pipe then started woofin something wild. --Pulled the head off and 1 valve had about half of it gone. Not a big deal to do valve job on these. IF it does turn out to be valves,--do a complete valve grind on all of them since you will have the head off.

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4 hours ago, SONNY said:

Sounds like exhaust valves either burned, warped, or not adjusted right. Check valves settings first, then go from there. My 560 ate one exhaust valve in a flash of fire out the pipe then started woofin something wild. --Pulled the head off and 1 valve had about half of it gone. Not a big deal to do valve job on these. IF it does turn out to be valves,--do a complete valve grind on all of them since you will have the head off.

i am pretty sure he will be taking the head to a machine shop that does head rebuilding. lots more to it than just grinding the valves.  plus i have never heard of doing only one valve anyhow. i guess maybe some backyard guy might though, but that would be just a patch up job as some do to get it going and gone down the road. a job on this head is about 500.00. and if you need to start buying valves and seats  and guides it will be more.

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One I would do first is check to make sure it's getting fuel. If mixture is to lean ( float hung up,,screen in carb blocked,dirt,etc) it will cough,sputter,backfire,pop any of those sounds and sounds are described differently by each that hear them.Might be a valve but also might just be a fuel issue. 

It would be worth a try.

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Start with the basics.

Remove the valve cover, retorque the head and reset the valves.

Recently had a 706G that had a definite miss to it.

Reset the valves and it vent away.

Popping is valve related too.

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It's amazing how many full "tuneups" don't involve setting valves anymore. I know, it's extra work, but it used to be part of the regular service regiment. It's even in the owners manual. (now, the owners manual tells you not to drink the contents of the battery). Dealing with them every day I can tell when they need it, and it does make a huge difference in how smooth a good engine can run even when the valves are just .005" out. I keep all of the common valve cover gaskets in stock. I just set the valves on a 3545 MF last week.. only 3500 hours, but it sounded horrible to me... the customer was amazed at how smooth it ran after. 

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On 10/8/2021 at 8:41 PM, rustred said:

i am pretty sure he will be taking the head to a machine shop that does head rebuilding. lots more to it than just grinding the valves.  plus i have never heard of doing only one valve anyhow. i guess maybe some backyard guy might though, but that would be just a patch up job as some do to get it going and gone down the road. a job on this head is about 500.00. and if you need to start buying valves and seats  and guides it will be more.

   Not sure why, when Dad traded his '60 Chevy C20 for the '67 F250 Camper Special, somehow a tune-up got included in the deal on the new truck. Week later when he had all his nessecities out of the Chevy he calls and lets the Ford Store know he's coming to trade trucks.  The salesman had a half hour to create the excuse why the tune-up wasn't done even with the week to get it in the shop. So Dad made the shop schedule him in and made sure the service manager knew he was staying in the shop.  Dad knew something was up, the service tech tested compression, and on two cylinders he cranked and cranked the engine over, two really week holes.  Service manager comes over and asks if Dad could leave the truck.  "No, not really, when can I bring it back? TOMARROW?   yep, they pulled the intake manifold and head and ground just the two exhaust valves.  We drove that truck close to 3 years, not a lot of miles, the 352 V8 only got about 11 mpg.

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Sorry, it's a gas burner. I missed that. 

Run the compression test. That will tell you if you have a bad valve.

Then check the points. I've had point/ignition problems cause similar noises.

Thx-Ace 

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That’s the compression test results.  I did them 2 times on each cylinder.  I did not add a drop of oil yet before next compression test.  From what I’ve read these numbers should be within 10% of each other. They are close but not sure if one result is significant over the others.  It’s a pretty popular consensus that a valve/valves are the problem.  I’m not sure how to set the points Acem, but I can get help here for that. Definitely worth a try!  Thanks again for the help. I’m going to dig into this all the way and let you guys know what the problem/problems are

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just out of curiosity was the throttle  open  and give give each cyl 5 puff's  of compression on a warm engine? those readings are not all that bad. first time i saw results posted following the firing order.  a burn valve is more of a huff ing sound in exhaust. to check you stick your hand over the pipe at idle and it will have suction on the burnt cyl. exhaust valve.

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You don't have a burt valve with those numbers. They are a little low but if you had a burnt valve it would be substantially less than the others.

I can explain how to set points but not now. I'm really tired and need to concentrate to get it right. I'm about to finish a cool refreshing adult beverage!

Thx-Ace 

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Couple basic questions

Does it have good fuel flow to the carb? Is the float and carb clean with proper adjustment?

Intake gaskets leaking? Running lean can make an engine miss or stutter at wide open throttle. Spray carb or ether on the mating surfaces of the gaskets any rpm change, up or down, indicates a leak. 

 

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I was taught to check the points like this.

Get a beer. Remove the pull tab and drink some. Set the beer to the side and straight out the pull tab. Remove the distributor cap. While watching the points, rotate the engine by hand until they are opened as much as they get. Adjust the gap so the pull tab just barely fits between the points. Reinstall the distributor cap and your good to finish the beer!

Now it's hard to find pull tabs. I use a dwell meter or a feeler guage. The dwell meter is most accurate.

Thx-Ace 

Beverage_pull_tab-featured-700x438.jpg

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