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Trailer decking. What do you use?


Mudfly
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I’ve been asked to resurrect what was at one time a nice tilt bed utility trailer (I think 7000#).  I think it’s 18 feet long x 78” wide

it’s been sitting awhile.  Needs tires, likely brakes, wiring, and a new deck.

Do you guys just go to the lumber yard and get 2x6 treated material?  Can it be untreated?
 
Or do you actually go get trailer decking from a trailer dealer?

Trying to out together some costs for the guy who wants it fixed up.

I’ve done brakes, tires, bearings, wiring, etc.  just never had to buy decking.

thanks!

 

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34 minutes ago, Mudfly said:

Im in North Dakota, there are no local sawmills.

Minnesota yes there are some, but I think the closest is 100 miles away.

Black Locust if you can get it. Lasts longer than stone. 

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I bought a new 30 foot goose neck in 2014 had PT decking on it, 4 times a year I take a paint roller and coat it with used crank case oil It has about 160.000 miles on it and the deck is still good The oil helps keep the cross members and frame from rusting also just oil it and drive down a DRY dusty road, best under coating ever

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Australian    Blue Gum.......one of the many "Eucalyptus "' species.......

.....don't   know if it lasts longer than stone.......never had a stone deck......Had plenty of "Rock ' decks, though....

.....that "stone " deck sounds like another  hazy Vermont thing ..??

Mike

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I think a lot of factory trailers are apatong (sp). It’s a hardwood from the Philippines from what I’m told. I used treated 2x6 and 2x8 when I did my gooseneck. Roll on water sealer twice a year. The used motor oil idea works well also. 

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1 hour ago, Sledgehammer said:

I think a lot of factory trailers are apatong (sp). It’s a hardwood from the Philippines from what I’m told. I used treated 2x6 and 2x8 when I did my gooseneck. Roll on water sealer twice a year. The used motor oil idea works well also. 

It's apitong,  it's what all the flatbed semi-trailers that sit out in the weather 365 days a year for ever have for floors.  Yes, it costs more but comparing cost per year probably works out cheaper in the long run.

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I use treated lumber from Lowes and coat it with used motor oil. Have had good luck so far and mine sits outdoors all the time. Winter they just sit with snow on them till I need it or sun melts it off.

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Go to Cusson, Mn on Hwy 53 just north of Orr, Mn. There is a sawmill there.  He used to sell Tamarack probably still does. Cusson Camp Co. if I remember correct is the name.

DWF

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2 minutes ago, DWF said:

Go to Cusson, Mn on Hwy 53 just north of Orr, Mn. There is a sawmill there.  He used to sell Tamarack probably still does. Cusson Camp Co. if I remember correct is the name.

DWF

218-757 3911 is the phone #

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19 minutes ago, DWF said:

218-757 3911 is the phone #

Thanks.  But not my trailer, I’m doing this as a job.  I doubt the owner would pay me to drive 200 miles 1 way to buy decking.  
 

I’ll keep the number handy for when I have to do my own trailer. 

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3 hours ago, Cliff Neubauer said:

Just did one with treated lumber from the lumber yard, it was mostly 2x10s.  

20210922_174252.jpg

That’s probably what I’ll quote him.  If he wants something better he can let me know.

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Our PJ had pressure treated. I am going to put pt back on as I don't have any black locust big enough to do it and we don't have oak either. I don't want to oil it as it's a hydraulic tilt trailer and it's slippery enough at times. I am afraid it would get more slippery if oiled . I was going to use ash but I am out of time to get a few logs in and saw them.

Apetong it probably about the best but there is a rubber product I have seen that seems really good

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5 hours ago, Cliff Neubauer said:

Just did one with treated lumber from the lumber yard, it was mostly 2x10s.  

20210922_174252.jpg

Years ago I was part of a crew that redecked river barges, we used 2x10s staggered  on edge to redo the barges, average barge sizes were 100' at most, your brand new deck reminded me of some good times.

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If you are going to use PT get you some undercoating grease, butter the tops of the cross members and don’t be bashful with it., that new PT is not toxic like the old, but it is corrosive as all heck. I like to drill the boards ahead of the inside of the channel cross members then use galvanized carriage bolts and double stack of  1.5” fender washers to clamp the boards down, cheaper than those self drilling screws, easier than drilling the cross members and you don’t end up with a Swiss cheese trailer by the third deck. 

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