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1971 1210 Pickup


nepoweshiekfarmalls

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The most recent addition to the collection.  1971 IH 1210 pickup. V8, auto, long box. Showing 66,000 miles on the odometer.   Last registered in 98. Dash pad is in nice condition.  Minimal rust. It is actually sitting on concrete in the photos,  just hard to see. Really excited about this pickup, always wanted one in this body style. 

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12 hours ago, TRAVELETTE said:

It appears that you have a 1972 1110 built in 10/71, judging by the VIN on the MVS certification decal, the grille, dashboard, and side trim. The VIN on the metal plate is for a 1973 1210. The VIN is stamped in the left frame rail near the front spring's rear hanger.

Why do the 2 tags not agree?  This truck looks unmolested to me.  My co worker also has a pickup that these tags contradict each other. Photos of his door tag and frame. They match, but like mine, the white sticker has different numbers.......

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Remove the hub cap, all 1200D vehicles would have had 8 lugs and full floating axles. (the rear axle went through the hub cap) 1100D was solid front axle 5 lugs there was also a 1000D same wheels as the 1100D it had torsion bars and mostly found on Travelals. All the bodies were the same the odd one was the 4 door pickup, very few of them made it to the public, very common in the military. We had many of them as ship trucks (a ship is issued a truck for general use when in port) in San Diego in the early 70's. 

I was going to just pass on by but my only new pickup was a 1970 1200D 4X4 V345 T98A1C, only ran  it for 3 years. In 75 I got a 1969 1100D Travelal 4X4 V304 T98A1 that one I ran until 1988. Either was a match for anything the big 3 had available, What I like best was the giant option list IH offered. The 1969 redesign of the IH light duty vehicles was the last redesign for IH pickups, last model  in 1975. I always considered the redesign to be a very bad engineering and marketing blunder for IHC. My first pickup was a 1960 B100, that I got in 1967 to haul a motor cycle in to get out to the the Southern California desert on weeks ends. That one was a BD240 I6 with a granny low 3 speed on the tree.  I had it until I got the 1970 1200D. 

Good luck with your project, My current project pickup is a Chevy Suburban BUT I would trash it in a second for any of my IH vehicles  in the same condition as when I had them!!!

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2 hours ago, TRAVELETTE said:

It is obvious from the pictures provided that this is not a 3/4 ton. 

He might have been responding to the photos of my co workers 1200D 4x4 pickup.  I posted them to show the door tag and frame stamp matched, but his white sticker was different (just like my 2wd).

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10 hours ago, nepoweshiekfarmalls said:

He might have been responding to the photos of my co workers 1200D 4x4 pickup.  I posted them to show the door tag and frame stamp matched, but his white sticker was different (just like my 2wd).

I was referring to the first picture posted in this tread. It shows a rear axle hub cap without the cut out for the axle that a 3/4 ton (1200/1210)would have. And when that picture is enlarged, the model 1110 can be read clearly on the front fender. The certification label shows kind and code number B13108. which is correct for a 1972 1110 4X2. If this label is tampered with (peeled off) the word VOID will appear. 1972 model year sequence numbers for Springfield built pickups began at H205000, according to the MT-131 parts catalog. In the other pictures provided, this unit has the 1972-1975 dash, not the same as 1969-1971.

Why don't the numbers match? Cabs can be replaced, doors replaced. metal plates switched, and back in the day, replacement certification labels could be obtained from IH.

In Wisconsin, the number found on the frame seems to be what the MVD goes by when issuing a title, if there are discrepancies.

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I just noticed last night that the LH fender is 1110 and the RH is 1210. So  replaced at some point. I can assure you that the vin stamped on the frame does match the number on the metal tag, which is stamped 1210. 

Curious that my co worker and I both have pickups that the metal tag that matches the frame and the white sticker is different. Maybe both pickups have had cabs changed and the metal tags swapped????? 

Going to run the vin# through the historical society and see what IH built!

 

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18 hours ago, nepoweshiekfarmalls said:

Going to run the vin# through the historical society and see what IH built!

 

Please do. They need the money. I have 1973 light duty chassis records on microfiche. Although they do not have all the detail that a copy of the full lineset ticket provides, CHB79603 is not a close match to the truck in your picture. Order a lineset, and you will see what I mean. Spend a little more and buy a copy of H218096, and see which one is closer to the truck you have. 

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Funny how in the 60s and 70s, the 4 door trucks were rarely seen, as stated earlier, state, forest service took some too. I have one as a plow truck, sits out front in the driveway. Atleast once a week I get random people stopping and wanting to buy it. Friends of mine have told me to put a "huge" price tag on it to stop them. And if they come knocking, they must be serious.  On a side note, the floating rear axle posi IH made wasn't all that stout

Mark

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  • 1 year later...

So, decoding the Line Setting Tickets indicate that the pickup is a 1972 1110, built in October 1971.  The decal in the door jam verifies the sage green paint with white cab top.  The truck was ordered into the dealership at Butte, Montana.  The tag on the door is from a donor 1210 sold at Ingersoll Farm equipment in Cresco, IA.  So, the repair and repaint occurred after it traveled to Iowa.

  Arrived home with the pickup after dark Sunday night.   Looks very promising.   Not too much rust at all!

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Will take photos in the light this evening.   Just had to share these photos in the driveway when I arrived home last night!

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Looked the pickup over a little closer tonight.  Everything is in place under the hood, even the factory A/C components!  The engine oil is full and clear, the radiator has bright green antifreeze, the ps fluid looks good, carburator is clean and the linkage moves.  I am encouraged! Next step:  put a socket and breaker bar on the crankshaft and see if the engine turns over... project for another night!  

More good news.... my friend found the title!  

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Few more photos from this evening:

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5 hours ago, TRAVELETTE said:

Looks like she is worth saving. I recommend pulling the distributor out and spinning the oil pump to pre-oil the engine prior to attempting starting her.

Can I just pull the coil wire off and crank it?

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This evening,  I took a long breaker bar and a 15/16 socket and installed them on the crank pulley.  The engine moved right away.   Then I put a ratchet on it and cranked it slowly.  Rust and dirt cascaded down from the belts and pulleys.   Hit resistance.   Went back the other way. Felt it come loose. Marked the belts with a sharpie.  Kept rotating it:  one full revolution,  then a second and a third!  The motion became more smooth and I could hear and feel the cylinders making compression and hear liquids gurgle somewhere in the engine.  Lay on my back and continued to ratchet the engine over until my arm was tired.  Enough for tonight!  Sprayed PB Blaster on the carburetor linkage and worked it back and forth until it worked smoothly.   Sprayed the hood hinges until they glide up and down like silk. Did notice the inner fender liners where the hinges bolt on are really rotted out.  Makes them twist and the rear of the hood likes to sit high.  Someday.....

Thinking about pulling the spark plugs out tomorrow night and squirting some engine oil in them and rotating the engine over by hand some more.  Good idea?

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I just love looking this old truck over.  The 31" tire and white wagon wheel are growing on me.  I have 4 of them...... 

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Love the detail on this mirror mount.

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Found the original jack and handle stowed in their factory locations behind the seat.  Really only missing a LH armrest, the original mirror head on the driver's door and the glove compartment door so far.  Amazing for a vehicle this age.

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Spent more time on the 1110 over the weekend.  Installed new battery cables and cleaned the ground and starter solenoid connections. Then, the engine would turn over with the key.  Slow at first, then the starter knocked the cobwebs out and ran good.  Engine turns over nice and even. Cleaned the cap and rotor and have fire there. However, the points were totally fried. So, new ones are on order.  Needed the trailer,  so changed to a different tire on the RF and rolled it off onto the ground near the shop. 

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On an engine that has sat for some time I remove the spark plugs and squirt in some oil. Then I run the starter with the plugs out for about half a minute and wait for a minute. I continue until I get oil pressure. It will really spin fast without the plugs and it lubes the cylinder walls. Makes it much easier to start.

If it's sat a long time it's good to change the oil before starting.

Prestolite points?

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