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1983 ambac 100 mods


MarekK2491
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I’ve seen some discussions on turning up these pumps. I have a late 82/83 s1900 dump truck. Power is lacking and was wondering what I can do to get another 75hp or so out of it or more if safe...

 

A few questions...

 

I’ve seen talk of adjusting the pump but not a specific picture or diagram of what’s what. Does anyone have a detailed guide on how to do this? 

 

A turbo swap may be in the cards if temps soar which is fine but I haven’t seen what a safe amount of boost is on these models. I’ve read different model dt466 have different pistons. How much boost can we run on 100 percent factory engine? What is a direct bolt up turbo that will keep this cool under load? I would prefer not to deal with an intercooler unless absolutely necessary. Is egts the main concern or should I be concerned about the engine handling additional power even if kept cool? Maybe that’s unrealistic loaded without an intercooler.

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Egts are a concern when turning up a motor. I would strongly suggest one if possible to put in. Does yours have an annoroid valve on it? It will have a line coming from the intake to the top of the injection pump. If so I've never been in one before and therefore I would be of no use. The easiest way if it doesn't have an Android valve is to take the top rectangular cover off the top of the injection pump and in the left top side in the center is the excess fuel screw. Out is more fuel, in is less fuel. One turn is approx ten HP. I would really really really, did I say really enough yet? recommend an egt and boost gauge. These old engines can handle about thirty pounds of boost reliably if used as a daily, but it is starting to get out of the efficiency map of the turbo. A cheap, and usually direct bolt on turbo is the 3Lm 466. The engine itself will handle about 400hp reliably with little to no upgrades. Boost about thirty pounds and I would recommend a different head gasket or studs with a stock gasket.

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17 hours ago, MinnesotaFarmall said:

Egts are a concern when turning up a motor. I would strongly suggest one if possible to put in. Does yours have an annoroid valve on it? It will have a line coming from the intake to the top of the injection pump. If so I've never been in one before and therefore I would be of no use. The easiest way if it doesn't have an Android valve is to take the top rectangular cover off the top of the injection pump and in the left top side in the center is the excess fuel screw. Out is more fuel, in is less fuel. One turn is approx ten HP. I would really really really, did I say really enough yet? recommend an egt and boost gauge. These old engines can handle about thirty pounds of boost reliably if used as a daily, but it is starting to get out of the efficiency map of the turbo. A cheap, and usually direct bolt on turbo is the 3Lm 466. The engine itself will handle about 400hp reliably with little to no upgrades. Boost about thirty pounds and I would recommend a different head gasket or studs with a stock gasket.

But an 82/83 truck would have an inline pump which is totally different

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everything is still the same as a tractor fuel stop, except there is a second sliding piston that moves the main one back and forth. So the aneroid pushes the whole thing to a normal position once it gets about 10 psi of boost. If it doesn't get boost to it or has a blown diaphragm it will be in the "no boost" fuel condition and be a big dog! Turn it up same as a tractor. The aneroid no air will change with it to some extent, but the rate is not adjustable. Confused yet? 

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Yes the hydraulic hose will cause horsepower loss. I had a customer’s 986 that I dynoed with a hydraulic hose then put on the OEM hose. It gained 15 horsepower just changing to the correct hose. Do not use heater hose. Just put on the correct one. 

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