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7250 hydraulic remote valve issue


Farmall1066
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Last fall we bought a new Brent V1000 grain cart, and using it with our 7250.  Every now and again when we would try raise the auger into position, it would blow 1 if not both hoses out of the remote.  Sometimes it would give the back of the tractor a hyd oil bath when they blew out too!  Well tonight went to raise the auger, and the top hose popped out, jumped out, plugged it back in, hit the lever popped out again?! This continued for 8-10 times, and just a light touch to the lever it would pop out.  Finally got the hose to stay in, but then as the auger raised oil spewed all over the ground from the remote drain the whole time the auger raised? There’s enough pressure that it blows the hose of the remote drain as well? I haven’t the slightest idea if it’s the tractor, or the grain cart? It only does this with the grain cart?!96ACD6AE-3AA7-4694-AA01-4BDCFDC10074.thumb.jpeg.78b5cd91c5c27d95c5f2d8fa8562ff0d.jpeg

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Any info, or ideas are appreciated! Going to be a long harvest if this continues!

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In my experience with this issue you need to replace both "cartridge" in that remote

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11 hours ago, bitty said:

In my experience with this issue you need to replace both "cartridge" in that remote

 

10 hours ago, Thesd5488 said:

Cartridge are junk need replaced 

Simple as that? That’s good to hear! But why with just the grain cart? 

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1 hour ago, Farmall1066 said:

 

Simple as that? That’s good to hear! But why with just the grain cart? 

Possible the tip on the hose is questionable but the cartridge leaking in the drain and hoses popping out are cartridge issues

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Probably is worse with the grain cart due to more pressure. Most modern grain carts have restrictors in their plumbing somewhere as the cylinders used for the auger swing & unloader gate are small....and today's tractors got much higher flows than necessary for grain cart cylinders. Since everybody with today's tractors think they have to run their flow controls at 100% all the time....well, we won't go there today. You might try turning your flow controls down all the way to see if it helps....then adjust your flow up until you get the fastest cycle time...and leave your flow control there. Anything else is just extra flow/pressure that isn't needed for the job.

As far as those cartridges in your Magnum.....they've been used on practically every big Magnum since Magnums came out, and on every Steiger built in the last 20 years, and all the New Holland Genesis tractors as well.....and they are a wear item. I probably replace an average of 50 couplers a year on all the tractors I work on. They will either not hold a male tip in or else they will leak internally like yours.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, I have cartridges showing up today for the one remote, it’s been fine since I posted this topic, now yesterday it popped once, today, no go.  So are these cartridges easy to install? I’ve done the conversions on some 66’s, but these remote bodies are different, I’m assuming the cartridges come with instructions? 
J-Mech would be chewing me out about get a manual, I don’t have one, the experts here are my manual, that’s why I came here!!! Thanks guys!!!👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

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My 7250 was doing the same thing, I removed the rubber ring from the coupler and cleaned the crap out of it and they hold fine now.

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4 hours ago, Farmall1066 said:

J-Mech would be chewing me out about get a manual, I don’t have one, the experts here are my manual, that’s why I came here!!! Thanks guys!!!👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

Lol 

I think it is a spring like that goes in like a figure 8 that holds the cartridges in but it has been years since I have done one

 

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First off, look at the fitting that the drain hose elbow or T threads into. You will need to remove it(should be 1” wrench size IIRC). Behind that you will see a finely coiled spring that wraps around both coupler cartridges…get a needle-nosed pliers and remove it. Next, remove your dust cover, remove the snap ring and spring behind it and then the coupler body will pull right out with a good pair of pliers. If you look in the bore, you will see a couple Teflon seals in the bore…they also have an o-ring with them. You might want to replace these as well, although I’ve replaced many couplers without replacing the seals. Install the new couplers and other components in the same order you removed them and you should be ready to go. 

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