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Farmall H Problems...


FarmallM96
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My brother has given me two H's of his to work on since I have a M and a C and became the apparent family farmall mech. Magneto H and one with a vertical distributor. Magneto H has a starter problem where you could start it x number of times then nothing. You have to back the starter out then put it back in so it's got a bad spot. This starter was rebuilt by a local auto shop so what did they miss. Distributor H will not start unless pulled off by my M. I've got 12.7 volts to the starter switch and to the starter when switch pushed in, even got it to coil distributor etc. I've even swapped starters among the 2 same thing. Engine isn't stuck as it was running when I pulled it off yesterday albeit the timing was off which I corrected.

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On the distributor H, does the voltage drop at ll when you press the starter button? Being a full load starter button  they need to be pretty healthy. Have had them go bad displaying exactly those symptoms. 
on Mag H whats the voltage drop on pressing the starter button? 

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42 minutes ago, vtfireman85 said:

On the distributor H, does the voltage drop at ll when you press the starter button? Being a full load starter button  they need to be pretty healthy. Have had them go bad displaying exactly those symptoms. 
on Mag H whats the voltage drop on pressing the starter button? 

Nope, So the Mag H was running, put it on a haybine today and it ran into a running problem (coil since will start but won't when running long). With it down I took that battery and put it on Dist H. Pulled it with a C got it to start for about a minute then it dided couldn't get the C to pull it off again. So I swapped starters nothing. Button and nothing. With a volt meter you can see 12.7v at battery, 12.7v at starter button and when you engage the starter button 12.7v at the starter. With off/run switch on you got 12.7v to coil and dist.

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5 minutes ago, FarmallM96 said:

Nope, So the Mag H was running, put it on a haybine today and it ran into a running problem (coil since will start but won't when running long). With it down I took that battery and put it on Dist H. Pulled it with a C got it to start for about a minute then it dided couldn't get the C to pull it off again. So I swapped starters nothing. Button and nothing. With a volt meter you can see 12.7v at battery, 12.7v at starter button and when you engage the starter button 12.7v at the starter. With off/run switch on you got 12.7v to coil and dist.

Check VD across start switch, inspect brushes and rotor in starter. Also make sure your DMM isnt on hold… trust me, it happens…. Do the starters spin when properly grounded? Polish up a spot on the starter ear and use a good set of Jumper Cables to properly ground the starter when out of the tractor, see if it spins, if it does put it back in but use the jumper to create a good ground, battery to starter ear. Try again. The Mag H sounds as likely to be fuel system crud floating around causing issues as it does an electrical issue. 

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2 hours ago, FarmallM96 said:

Magneto H has a starter problem where you could start it x number of times then nothing. You have to back the starter out then put it back in so it's got a bad spot.

Electrical has been addressed well here so I will go another direction.

Does it go in with a clunk and not spin motor over?

Check drive gear on starter for nice and smooth, no rough spots. 

Look at the starter ring on your flywheel. Are the teeth rough there. 

A six cylinder motor stops in one of three places on the flywheel each time. 

A 4 cylinder stops in one of two places. 

I had that trouble once and a little filing of the teeth to smooth out the rough spots made her start like a new one. 

 

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4 hours ago, sandhiller said:

Electrical has been addressed well here so I will go another direction.

Does it go in with a clunk and not spin motor over?

Check drive gear on starter for nice and smooth, no rough spots. 

Look at the starter ring on your flywheel. Are the teeth rough there. 

A six cylinder motor stops in one of three places on the flywheel each time. 

A 4 cylinder stops in one of two places. 

I had that trouble once and a little filing of the teeth to smooth out the rough spots made her start like a new one. 

 

I had a 6 cylinder that stopped in a lot of places, usually at night, often in the rain, always beside the road…

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Do you have pictures of the tractors as h’s can very widely in components and setup?

Is there a starter button on either one or is it the rod running to the starter style?

Have you tried to run the starters out side of the tractor on a good battery?

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On 9/6/2021 at 8:13 PM, FarmallM96 said:

My brother has given me two H's of his to work on since I have a M and a C and became the apparent family farmall mech. Magneto H and one with a vertical distributor. Magneto H has a starter problem where you could start it x number of times then nothing. You have to back the starter out then put it back in so it's got a bad spot. This starter was rebuilt by a local auto shop so what did they miss. Distributor H will not start unless pulled off by my M. I've got 12.7 volts to the starter switch and to the starter when switch pushed in, even got it to coil distributor etc. I've even swapped starters among the 2 same thing. Engine isn't stuck as it was running when I pulled it off yesterday albeit the timing was off which I corrected.

As mentioned above when the flywheel ring gear and the starter drive get worn they will lock the engine instead of properly engaging. If not too bad rocking the tractor in 5th gear will usually free them up.  The solution is to file a bevel on the left side of the ring gear tooth, leave the right side (the driven side) flat. I have sometimes bevel the starter drive gear at times but it is best to replace it if it has too much damage.

If the vertical (Delco-Remy) distributor still has the 6 volt coil running on 12 volts without a resistor the points will burn out in a short time causing the timing to change. A 6 volt coil will have about 1 to 1 1/2 ohms resistance. If you have a 12 volt coil it should be about 2 to 4 ohms.

If you are playing musical chairs with the starters, the one on a regular M should be the same as the H.

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