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Farmall1066
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I have a 1256 wheatland that I’m working on, shouldn’t have to be this deep into it, but here I am! Did main bearing, and rod bearing roll, in it today, everything looked good, it definitely needed bearings, all standard bearings, but #1 rod had a .010, and a .020 bearing in it!🤔🙁   Not sure how that even worked?? 
This is my tractor, it’s never going to be a workhorse, and be pulled hard for hours on end.  It’s just going to be a play tractor.  
So my question is, can I put a .010, and a.020 bearing back in, or is it crank grinding time?! This tractor was supposed to be a good tractor, so far, it’s far from it!!! I’ve had my fill of engine overhauls for awhile with the 706 I’m working on!! And every machine shop is back up for 4-6 months depending on service needed!

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I’m sure it’s not what you want to hear, but I wouldn’t even consider putting it back together like that. If it was my tractor I would want it done as close to right as possible. I didn’t know there were ever any machine shops that weren’t backed up, at least if they were competent. Improperly sized bearings looks like a disaster looking for a place to happen. 

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I’m not sure how that worked either...what did the old shells and journal look like? This was on the same rod?

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The only way I could even imagine the engine could be rotated (let alone run) is if someone reamed and pin-honed those two shells to size.  ...and why in the world would anyone do that? - would be faster/easier/cheaper to buy a bearing pair....

Pic of the numbers on the back of those shells?  Something definitely awry.

Put a mic on that journal, too (not a caliper).  Rod and cap seem to mesh correctly? (get a measure on that parent bore, too)

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Could the bearing halves been mis marked? Lotsa measuring with a mic in order I would think.

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This could have been done by the factory or at a later time.

In any event, the bearings now fit the crank.

Put the same size bearings back in the correct places and things will be fine for a "Play Thing".

Unless your knowing creates undue stress.

Then pull the crank and have it ground on all journals to the same diameter.

Your call!

 

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It's just my opinion, but I'd have the crank ground, and I'd have the engine shop take a good look at the rod bore and fix if needed.

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Measure everything...............If it worked put it back the way it was...............Good thing its a Wheatland or I would have guessed it came from PA:rolleyes:  Its pretty common here to find stuff with one hole being different than the rest on the crank................I could not imagine tearing out a crank to do one and only one and then putting it back in, but they did it, and quite often.  

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It is possible that the one journal was reground to 0.015 under using a portable crank grinder. You could grind the crank journals without removing the crankshaft from the engine. That was a fairly common practice 80 years ago or more when poured Babbitt bearings were common.

As others have posted, measure that journal to be sure.

I did something similar on my Dads 3010D to get through a few more days of fall tillage.  Number 2 rod spun the bearing so to get by those few days I polished the journal with emory ribbon used Plasti-gage to fit new bearings. I think I changed them a couple of times in the next few days before we overhauled it putting in a new crank and rod.

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You'll probably never be happy or wonder about it if you dont fix it right. I'd probably get someone with an extra set of eyes to help me measure it up and determine what I should do. If it measures up good try it. That's just what I would do in that position. It wouldn't bother me to have 2 different bearings in as long as they fit. Just my .02. And these others know alot more than me on these tractors. Wont deny that 

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5 hours ago, DT Fan said:

How was the oil pressure? Don't know how someone ever made that work at all.

Was supposed to be a runner when it showed up, it showed up with 12.5 gallons of fuel in the crankcase, pulled pan to check bearings, and found bad bearings, so I know nothing about it yet!

 

16 hours ago, hardtail said:

I’m not sure how that worked either...what did the old shells and journal look like? This was on the same rod?

I have no idea, but the videos I got of it running before I bought it, it sounds healthy!

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never heard of that one before, sure it was not miss marked? I guess stranger things have happened

Had a customer with a ford New Holland TLB from the day it was new he complained that when he drove onto the trailer the trans would slip dealer couldn't figure it out and then the trans quit all together 

I  split the tractor and found the housing had been cast wrong and when they machined it they had blown through in one spot 

The factory remedy was to insert a rubber boot and a freeze plug 

it must have failed on day one and if you backed onto the trailer it did not suck air  that was the dealers answer just back it on

They went out a year later

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Now that my memory has been jogged. A add in a reginal farm magazine by a guy that would come grind cranks with them in place. I can see only doing damaged ones with such a procedure. But don't know if that was common 30 years ago or not, when the add was run.

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Crank grinding somewhat common on bigger construction equipment and still viable for marine repairs Crankshaft Grinding Machine- Mobile Machining of Crankshaft - RA Power Solutions | RA Power Solutions

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I would check that journal size in a few different places 

The rod should be checked also but the variance in shell sizes should be bearing ID

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I'd like to see the set up they had to hone the rod end with the bearings in it on the tractor, if that was done,

What did the bearings half's look like? To hone that miss match it must have been honed through the plating, it isn't that thick.

Check it with some plati-gage in serval places this will tell you if its even close to right 

 

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7 hours ago, jeeper61 said:

I'd like to see the set up they had to hone the rod end with the bearings in it on the tractor, if that was done,

What did the bearings half's look like? To hone that miss match it must have been honed through the plating, it isn't that thick.

Check it with some plati-gage in serval places this will tell you if its even close to right 

 

I didn’t do the work, I was running for parts, my dads hired hand was doing the bearing roll, he said they were Clevite bearings, so once I get a moment to go look, I’ll take pictures and post.  But he did say, with standard bearings in place, it had movement, and that’s what caught his attention to start looking at the old shells.  So someone did something before me, and now I get to eat it!!! 

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Here’s where this running, driving tractor sits right now!04BD45BE-FC57-4F23-95F9-F87502202FE5.thumb.jpeg.04a6824d480785b30846d4bea948d2ad.jpegE3B262A7-37E1-46B6-8511-0AE7C811CA12.thumb.jpeg.10ae64ba783b05a01b581df185f341fc.jpeg

front axle was toast, radiator was toast, turbo wouldn’t have lasted much longer, drawbar assembly is roached out, water pump housing is cracked, and there wasn’t more than 2 cups of water in the cooling system, so how good is this engine, and now possibly a crankshaft grinding coming!!
Maybe I’m better to part it out, and take my losses?! 

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37 minutes ago, Farmall1066 said:

Here’s where this running, driving tractor sits right now!04BD45BE-FC57-4F23-95F9-F87502202FE5.thumb.jpeg.04a6824d480785b30846d4bea948d2ad.jpegE3B262A7-37E1-46B6-8511-0AE7C811CA12.thumb.jpeg.10ae64ba783b05a01b581df185f341fc.jpeg

front axle was toast, radiator was toast, turbo wouldn’t have lasted much longer, drawbar assembly is roached out, water pump housing is cracked, and there wasn’t more than 2 cups of water in the cooling system, so how good is this engine, and now possibly a crankshaft grinding coming!!
Maybe I’m better to part it out, and take my losses?! 

   This is a Tuff Call,    If you Sink The amount of Money Needed To Make this an Extremely Reliable Tractor,   Will You Get A Return on your Investment? 

I Have Seen a Few 806's with a Bad Tran's/ Clutch/ TA,  That sell for $3500.00 Dollars, a 361 Complete Engine for your Tractor &  Sell the other Parts.

My 2 Cents,  Jim Droscha

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Here are some rod bearings from the 1256 I’m working on.D65646A2-43B3-4F67-883E-4B9B4D0E9DE0.thumb.jpeg.1f2590fb38b88398ca6b93435b85eb94.jpeg

Believe it or not, the crankshaft was not scarred up at all! And can anyone find the .010 bearing, and.020 bearing that was in the same rod? 

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If you want a 1256 then I wouldn’t hesitate to fix it. The chances of buying a different old tractor with any better results is almost zero. Most old tractors are worn out. Most tractors that have been “restored” that are for sale are just as bad as this one under that new paint. Tractors that have been properly restored and had major money spent on them don’t often come up for sale because they know they can’t get their money back. If you are going to actually use this tractor whatever you spend will be the equivalent of a fart in a bucket compared to any machinery very new that is not already used up.

How many times have you heard somebody trade for a different used tractor only to have major transmission or engine problems in a few hundred hours? I see it all the time, and it’s happened to me before. Maybe your luck is better than mine. At least with this you know what you have. 

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4 hours ago, Farmall1066 said:

Here are some rod bearings from the 1256 I’m working on.

Well - somebody certainly got their money's worth out of them!  Reverse 'em and run 'em again? LOL

Still curious - what did that journal mic out at?  Top one's the 0.020?  Crank over-ground by about 4 Thou, and the 0.020 shell was the "fix"?

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