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What's this used camper worth?


sandhiller
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Boy wants me to go in with him on it.

It's close so easy to go look at.

2003?     26'

What do I look for?

Supposedly in good shape, no leaks, everything works.

I know a lot of variables but ballpark guess as to worth?

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Have had 3 campers ranging from early 70s to the newest about the age you are looking at. I know you said it doesn't leak......but they all do in my experience sooner or later. Look around windows inside and out for any, any, any sign of leaks! Also any skylights like say over the shower. Had one of those leak and had to redo ceiling before I sold it in last one.  Check around under storage doors as well for leaks. Also any cracks in shower surround. They will only get worse. Most campers are built out of the cheapest lightest stuff they can get away with. Sun is hard on them. I know your in a dryer climate but sun and rain really do a number on em over the years. I won't buy another if it hasn't been stored inside and if I can't get it inside after I buy it. Our first 2 would fit in my old machine shed so they stayed fairly decent. The last one was too tall and had to sit outside. It was hard on it.

Make sure everything works as it should and if not negotiate with that in mind. Camper stuff is all special and expensive. Used campers are usually fairly cheap after a certain age...but there is usually a reason for that too. Good luck.

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Oh ya roll the awning out and make sure it's good and operates like it should. They make a huge difference on a Miserable sunny day or a rainy day. Just don't let the wind catch it and yank it up. They are big bucks to replace. 800 or more last I knew depending on size. They can be sun rotted too usually up by the roof where the canvas is exposed to sun when rolled up.

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No leaks? BS, 2 kinds of campers ones that leak, and ones that haven’t been outside. Paid 3500 for a 2004 that was similar 8 years ago. I wouldn’t give a nickel over 2k those aluminum sided ones are a nightmare, the water leaks  at the corners, runs the length of the seam until the puddle.  runs over and then leaks into the wall. I have replaced the walls to the ceiling in the bedroom and bathroom in mine, the floor under the dinette and the entire kitchen. I would replace it but I would just be starting over again with the problems. The components from one to another are the same old junk, doesn’t matter what one you buy. I have to do a roof, i will be removing all roof penetrations. 
think of it this way, they are built in less than a day, and rely on caulk, not gravity to keep the rain out. 
 

take a rubber mallet and tap all the floors push your fingers into the corners inside and feel along all the walls and ceilings . Check floors carefully in all 4 corners and particularly check the inside paneling. Look for extra caulking around seams and windows/doors/corners etc. check The roof for cracks, and soft spots.

corrugated aluminum siding is the WORST might as well set up a sprinkler inside. 

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6 minutes ago, iowaboy1965 said:

Oh ya roll the awning out and make sure it's good and operates like it should. They make a huge difference on a Miserable sunny day or a rainy day. Just don't let the wind catch it and yank it up. They are big bucks to replace. 800 or more last I knew depending on size. They can be sun rotted too usually up by the roof where the canvas is exposed to sun when rolled up.

As long as the hardware is ok the canvas isn’t  bad 1-200 bucks, but you are sure right about the whole deal, mom and dad had the wind get theirs, i managed to find a 15 ‘ setup for about 650, but it really took some searching. 

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2 years ago, $2500-3k tops.  This year….who knows.  I have a good buddy that sells campers (150-200 a year) and he’s been saying since early spring that new campers (and parts to fix new ones in need of repair already) are so hard to get, that he’s been  buying fixer uppers and (junk) that he normally wouldn’t take in trade,  patching them  up and selling them -instantly.   Neighbor just gave 4500 for a 30 yr old pontoon boat that I would not want to venture far from shore in. 

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Son got owner from 7K down to 4K so far.

Owner bought a new one so wants this gone.

Son has a building to keep it on.

Appreciate the advice and experience ?

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Id say 4 k is good check for frame cracks and broken welds rv frame factory theory on Welding is why weld it right when you can weld it out...

When i worked at one it was .35 wire at 675 inches a minute and useually 28 volts mig. Crazy...the wire was in 55 gallon drums.... We would burn 25lb in 8 hours...

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2 hours ago, sandhiller said:

Son got owner from 7K down to 4K so far.

Owner bought a new one so wants this gone.

Son has a building to keep it on.

Appreciate the advice and experience ?

4 sounds good for here.  Guys are spot on.  My friend just sold a 40 year rv sale and serv co.  

1. It leaks somewhere.  Period.  Get stuff, watch videos, reseal and caulk the roof with the correct products for good results and long service 

2. Get date off tires.  They are ALL over capacity on every rv when loaded.  So if look good...they aint.

3. Slideouts are nice.  Esp for the service guys pocketbook. (We have one) Most of his repairs were on slides.

4. Seth is 100% right.  Aluim sides are a B.  Way more opportunities for water and sweating.  The hammer idea is great idea.  Pusssh every corner too and see how soft.  Look under sinks and real hard around toilet.  

5. Frame... look at braces and spring shakles.  They fold like Bill Clinton with a pretty intern.  So light...if scary.  Brothers slide was growling.  Looks and every 16ga 'brace' was buckled on main frame.  So at 9pm we were welding and adding reinforcements and extra braces before a trip.

6. That looks nice and you prob be just fine.  Park inside also...park inside and really id rec you park 365 inside.  Unhook batteries too and toss in anti mice popurie sacks.  They love live wires and rvs.  

So My friend says the 90s to 2005ish are better than new.  New ones are 8 to 10 hr of finishing and repairing before even sitting on LOT!  Junk.  There is NO standard or governing body for RV manufacturers.  Look up "rv horror stories" about folk experience with new ones.  Its un believable the lack of quality, safty and pride in workmanship.  

There is a book about a USMCA truck guy (from Frieghtliner iirc) who went to Coachman in the 90s.  Says the engineers had 0 concern for the respect of brake capacity or roadability.  The wt behind the rear axle would often surpass the front.  Before even being loaded.  He took some boys from engineering out for lunch in a 28' class C E350.  On the freeway on ramp, on purpose, he slipped the tail around and had it skid to a rolling reverse stop in the middle of ramp.  They crapped.  Next day he was told "oh well" we dont have any regs so this is how it works.  Kinda scary and despicable 

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Exactly the information I was looking for.

Would rather get the education before the purchase than after.

Thank you all!

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I worked for a dealer for 13 years and retired in April, 2021.  I usually looked at the trade-ins and reported back to the boss my findings as the service writer.  I always looked at indoor ceiling-to-wall seams inside of any cabinetry in the kitchen, front and rear as this one shows in your pix.  I watched for any staining of the wall paper under windows, in corners and in the ceiling around vents, as the other fella's mentioned.  When rolling out the awning, watch for pinhole perforations next to the body on the underside of the vinyl.  And if you have a chance to see the awning from the roof as it is rolled up, you will know it's had hail on it if there are breaks on the vinyl coating where the stone hit it.  I always checked any roof I got up on to see if there was any depression in the caulking or cracks in the caulking across the front transition strip for front metal to roof metal or in this case, rubber roof. And that especially applied also the the rear transition strip. Rubber has been used since about 1995 or thereafter and has a life of about 10-15 years in the sun or 20 if in shed when not used.  Rodent spray foam or low-expansion foam has saved my campers from mice because mine are always stored outside.  You foam any opening underneath that you can stick the nozzle into to drastically reduce or eliminate any mouse infestation.  As a side note, I also wrote damage estimates for the company, usually 50 or more every year.  Tangled with a lot of insurance adjusters that only knew about vehicles and buildings but used my estimate as the only credible one to pay off of.  I occasionally lost a battle for a customer, but it wasn't more than 2 or 3 out of that 50+ each year.  Good luck if you bought it. 

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51 minutes ago, oldscoutdiesel said:

Good luck if you bought it. 

Not yet.

Never having owned one, I wanted a little learning before I went to look at it.

An old truck driver friend told me how to buy a used truck.

Find one you kinda like that will fit your operation.

Write down everything you don't like about it.

If anything that you don't think you can live with, walk away.

Saves your judgement from being clouded by what you like about it.

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Page 2 (Sorry, I haven't had to think about this stuff for 3 months and more of it is coming back)

I can't tell for sure from the picture but if the metal molding on the right front corner is pulling away from the corner, there is water damage already.  Some folks would take the rusty 2" screw out and drive in a 4" screw hoping to hit some kind of wood in there somewhere.  There is a factory caulk line along those moldings (front or rear) that shows where it was caulked originally or after it's been "fixed" by a previous owner.  If it is tight, good.  And on the roof, if there are cracks in the caulking on any moldings, vent bases (refrigerator, sewer, crank open, fixed skylight, radio and/or TV antenna), clean the dirt off of the old caulking with rubbing alcohol and use QUAD

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Page 3 (Sorry, finger slipped and sent the message before I was finished)

Quad is available at many lumber dealers and works very well on all surfaces, even rubber roofs.  And there is no need to remove the old caulk if you don't want to.  Alcohol evaporates immediately and leaves no oily residue like mineral spirits or other oil based products.  It can even be used around metal moldings instead of 100% silicone if you can't stand the smell of silicone.  

Enough for now.  I am happy to answer any other questions that anyone might have.  I learned alot over those 13 years and am more than willing to teach anyone about maintenance on their campers.

 

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All of the above suggestions are good ones , i would also pressurize the water system before i bought it, If they are not properly winterized it can be a nightmare . We have had fifth wheels for over 20 years and if they are maintained and shedded they are a lot of fun.

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