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Green temp range on gauge


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What is the temperature range for the green “run” area of this temp gauge? Is it 170-200 ish? Also what temperature does the cold start and hot end? 

I’ve heard normal operating temp is when the needle is on the “n”, what is that temperature?

Thanks, Brody 

https://www.steinertractor.com/IHS531-Water-Temperature-Gauge

Also, is this Steiner gauge reliable to use or is their another place I should get this gauge from.

635B5FD2-C505-436E-8EA3-FA82FFD917C4.jpeg

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If you're really worried about it try to add a second numerical gauge in an inconspicuous location. If you have one of those digital thermometers take a few readings at different positions on the gauge and make a mental note.

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why not get a real , made in usa , gauge from autometer or stewart warner and no exactly what your motor is doing instead of those cheap overseas made junk  

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Get a inferred heat gun and check the temperature in real time to cross reference any gauge

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Sneak in your mom's kitchen and throw a pan of antifreeze on the stove top, stick thermo-couple of gauge in antifreeze and sneak her candy thermometer in the pan. Bring temp up a little and let it stabilize, see what temps you have at different settings.  

I took an old oven burner and made a "hot plate" that we use for this type of testing as well as heating bearings an etc...you will need to use antifreeze, as straight water will boil before you get good readings. 

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Frankly I've never been able to get a letter series tractor hot enough to get it into the RUN area on the gauge, and that's with an old original Rochester gauge.

i think there are two different original style gauges. There's the one made overseas that 99% of the online tractor parts places sell, and I guess you can still get the Rochester brand gauge, as I recall from one of @Farmall pete's videos from overhauling his MD over the winter (Just a few acres farm). If you care more about science than originality though, use a quality gauge with numbers on it. Heck use a cheap gauge with numbers on it. I got the $15 triple gauge set from Harbor Freight on my Super H, installed in the original locations, and I'm quite happy with it. Not original, but functional and not gaudy.

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1 minute ago, CIHTECH said:

Sneak in your mom's kitchen and throw a pan of antifreeze on the stove top, stick thermo-couple of gauge in antifreeze and sneak her candy thermometer in the pan. Bring temp up a little and let it stabilize, see what temps you have at different settings.  

I took an old oven burner and made a "hot plate" that we use for this type of testing as well as heating bearings an etc...you will need to use antifreeze, as straight water will boil before you get good readings. 

That's what I did, only it was my wife's thermometer. Which is now my thermometer...?   Anyway with water or 50/50 mix when I had the needle reading right between cold and run and that would be about 130*. At the R it would be about 140/145*. That was the gauge that was on my 450 and it appeared to be the original gauge. The R in run was as warm as it ever got working on a hot day.

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"Also, is this Steiner gauge reliable"

I've bought 2 of these from Steiner. Neither lasted. I need a new gauge now and I'll not be replacing with a Steiner.

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You bought two gauges already, and how much did that cost? You could have bought one good quality USA made autometer gauge and you’ll still have it working 

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15 minutes ago, gmcdeadhead said:

You bought two gauges already, and how much did that cost? You could have bought one good quality USA made autometer gauge and you’ll still have it working 

Thanks for the unsolicited wisdom!  Some of us old farts take our time learning life experiences that others seem to be born with! 

 

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Thanks everyone, an infrared thermometer is a good idea. I’ll also check the new gauge in a pan on the stove to see what it does. I think I’ll order this gauge from precision tractor instead of the Steiner one. 

I want this kind of gauge for the original look of it. I’ve ran numerical gauges before on three different tractors, I was just wondering how the numbers would line up with this gauge. 

89555538-5639-42F8-A832-C12C4198E9B8.jpeg

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4 hours ago, Matt Kirsch said:

Frankly I've never been able to get a letter series tractor hot enough to get it into the RUN area on the gauge, and that's with an old original Rochester gauge.

i think there are two different original style gauges. There's the one made overseas that 99% of the online tractor parts places sell, and I guess you can still get the Rochester brand gauge, as I recall from one of @Farmall pete's videos from overhauling his MD over the winter (Just a few acres farm). If you care more about science than originality though, use a quality gauge with numbers on it. Heck use a cheap gauge with numbers on it. I got the $15 triple gauge set from Harbor Freight on my Super H, installed in the original locations, and I'm quite happy with it. Not original, but functional and not gaudy.

I went this route on my 706 20200803_203032.thumb.jpg.dce61c75807a14a70b04825d4ec4e774.jpg

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6 hours ago, Farmall Nut said:

"Also, is this Steiner gauge reliable"

I've bought 2 of these from Steiner. Neither lasted. I need a new gauge now and I'll not be replacing with a Steiner.

Precision Tractor Parts has original look Rochester gauges which are made in the USA. Their website says they carry CNH licensed products, so I assume they are good quality

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4 hours ago, BrodyNC said:

 I’ll also check the new gauge in a pan on the stove to see what it does.

 

Hey post the results....lots of people probably interested in the range

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Quote

farmall nut-- Thanks for the unsolicited wisdom!  Some of us old farts take our time learning life experiences that others seem to be born with! 

didnt mean it to sound offensive , i just dont understand why guys get those cheap gauges, forget about looking original, get a good gauge thats gonna tell you what your motor is doing, 

heres my gauges on my 1945 w4 

IMG_5782.jpg

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On 7/16/2021 at 9:52 AM, BrodyNC said:

Thanks everyone, an infrared thermometer is a good idea. I’ll also check the new gauge in a pan on the stove to see what it does. I think I’ll order this gauge from precision tractor instead of the Steiner one. 

I want this kind of gauge for the original look of it. I’ve ran numerical gauges before on three different tractors, I was just wondering how the numbers would line up with this gauge. 

89555538-5639-42F8-A832-C12C4198E9B8.jpeg

They seem to make good stuff. Had a visit with them at RPRU in Bloomsburg and trust their quality.

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I have pulled a FARMALL 450 gas hard enough that the temp gauge eventually crawled it's way almost up to the end of the green RUN range, was plowing, 4-14's and a Midwest plow harrow, finished up 40 acres of old corn ground, pulled into the front 40 that was alfalfa sod. Dad was plowing with his M with 3-14 IH #8 without a harrow,  I needed to run in a different land. I shifted from 3rd to 2nd, dropped the plow in the ground and the 450 struggled up to 1400 rpm, it started climbing up the temp gauge by the time I got across the field the first time, 1/4 mile.  I made 2 rounds and temp was up to end of green RUN zone, start of red HOT zone. No idea what the real temp was, I shifted back to 3rd and pulled TA back which was about 1/2 mph slower than 2nd, and one pass across the field and temp guage was back to top end of white COLD range, start of green RUN range.  I went over and stopped Dad to see which way he wanted me to run, running the plow a half inch shallower was another solution.  We traded tractors, he plowed for several hours, Only time EVER I plowed with the M, WHAT a HORSE!  It still had the straight M gears in the trans. Dad said to run in 3rd. And that I only had enough gas for 2-3 rounds. So I made 2 rounds and ran home and gassed up.  Ran back to the field in 5th, dropped into 4th at the gate, run up the headland, drop the plow in the ground and "Pull her EARS back". It's barking a little harder, but still holding it's RPM. Not over-loaded or running hot.

    I've seen lots of comments here about people happy with their new Rochester gauges from Precision. Bermuda Ken recommends Pilot Knob Restoration's gauges too. Both advertise in the magazine.

    The gauges on the Super H were only 14 yrs old when we got it, but pretty badly deteriorated, hard to read. ALL three were replaced at different times. I think oil psi was first, was a replacement gauge from a dealer with numbers, I bought the temp gauge from MY IH dealer, half mile down the street from my High School. The parts man had a daughter in my class, he was the ONLY parts person who knew me on sight. He'd say "Hi,What we working on today?" and I'd tell him which tractor and what part and by the time I got my checkbook out it was on the counter.  He told me "The new temp gauge is universal, long tube on sensor bulb, just coil it up under the hood, but you'll like it with the numbers instead of colored bands." He was right.  A new Stewart-Warner -60-0-+60 amp gauge was installed with the 12V alternator about 1980. And SON has put the same set of AUTOMETER PHANTOM gauges in his '93 Lightning pickup,  no, not the new electric POS Ford is trying to sell now, the ORIGINAL little red Ford hot-rod pickup. He installed them about 1999-2000, and transferred them and the Pillar pod into my old F250 where they still work fine, he put around 150,000 miles on them in the Lightning, and 20,000 miles in the F250, amazing how inaccurate the factory dash gauges were!  Yep Autometer, Steward-Warner, Any US based gauge manufacturer is better than any import.

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  • 1 month later...
On 7/16/2021 at 2:44 PM, Jeff-C-IL said:

Hey post the results....lots of people probably interested in the range

Best I can tell on my new gauge 180 degrees is the L in cold and 200 is right in between cold and run. Didn’t get the water any hotter on the stove because I didn’t have a good way to keep the bulb in the water and I couldn’t keep the water at a very stable temperature for long. 

0C208266-D891-4023-877D-1FCC76A032FA.jpeg

27D965C6-0747-449F-8B45-B8C438ECAC85.jpeg

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I replaced my original gauge with an expensive one, because it never would register squat.

The new one doesn't register either... So - I just check the coolant and drive on...

I attribute it all to the bypass...

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21 hours ago, BrodyNC said:

Best I can tell on my new gauge 180 degrees is the L in cold and 200 is right in between cold and run. Didn’t get the water any hotter on the stove because I didn’t have a good way to keep the bulb in the water and I couldn’t keep the water at a very stable temperature for long. 

0C208266-D891-4023-877D-1FCC76A032FA.jpeg

27D965C6-0747-449F-8B45-B8C438ECAC85.jpeg

that is why on my 706 i went with number gauges and they are pretty darn close to my head gun readings. I like that better than questioning a gauge that you dont really know exactly where you are if you are using the tractor for work, if its a parade tractor or gets light work, doesnt really matter much - w/out a cab I can usually smell when things are getting hot most of these old tractors have oil on them and it will start smelling/smoking abnormally 

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On 7/16/2021 at 8:52 AM, BrodyNC said:

Thanks everyone, an infrared thermometer is a good idea. I’ll also check the new gauge in a pan on the stove to see what it does. I think I’ll order this gauge from precision tractor instead of the Steiner one. 

I want this kind of gauge for the original look of it. I’ve ran numerical gauges before on three different tractors, I was just wondering how the numbers would line up with this gauge. 

89555538-5639-42F8-A832-C12C4198E9B8.jpeg

Realisticaly, I’m 99% sure Steiner dosent actually make that gauge, Neither does precision tractor , or IH or Dealer X or Dealer Y or Dealer Z . 
 

Regardless of where you buy it it’s coming from the same source.  

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4 hours ago, lorenzo said:

Realisticaly, I’m 99% sure Steiner dosent actually make that gauge, Neither does precision tractor , or IH or Dealer X or Dealer Y or Dealer Z . 
 

Regardless of where you buy it it’s coming from the same source.  

I have tried some Steiner tractor parts gauges and have found they are not the best. The Oil pressure gauges read too high, but the temperature gauges seem to work fine so far.

I will be getting any gauges for our old Farmalls from Precision tractor parts from now on. The Precision tractor parts gauges are Rochester gauges, like the originals and are made in USA ( just like the gauges OEM tractor parts used to sell before they closed their doors). Only thing I can fault with the OEM gauges is that the IHC logo is not exactly the same as the original gauges but they all work great. 

Marty,NZ. 

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