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Freeze plug advice


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just get things out of the way and drive a punch through  it and pop it out.  make sure sealing surfaces are clean. pound the new one in using a socket or what works only on the outside edge.  plus use some blue locktite on the sealing surface. no silicone.  on the flat convex frost plugs you have to tap the centre flat once installed , as thats what seats them. i presume you have the cup type.

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31 minutes ago, snoshoe said:

More complicated than that. You have to remove camshaft to get front plate out of the way. Complete front engine tear down.

I’m no mechanic by far. To the tractor shop she’ll go. Thank y’all.

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i have replaced several freeze plugs on D282s - these - takes a lil bit of disassembly to access but nothing too bad - is this what you are talking about? 

On 7/11/2021 at 12:05 PM, Turner03 said:

I’m no mechanic by far. To the tractor shop she’ll go. Thank y’all.

image.thumb.png.9cd82ad8fb83098bf1244455b50bea65.png

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Guys. This is the one in front of engine. Half hidden by timing cover. Mentioned and pictured in thread with broken bolt hole from too short waterpump bolt. Less confusing if he had continued that thread instead of starting another.

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1 minute ago, snoshoe said:

Guys. This is the one in front of engine. Half hidden by timing cover. Mentioned and pictured in thread with broken bolt hole from too short waterpump bolt. Less confusing if he had continued that thread instead of starting another.

My apologies.

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42 minutes ago, searcyfarms said:

i have replaced several freeze plugs on D282s - these - takes a lil bit of disassembly to access but nothing too bad - is this what you are talking about? 

image.thumb.png.9cd82ad8fb83098bf1244455b50bea65.png

image.jpeg.fceb9b47dd2be2f6d38e0dee77af112c.jpeg

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might need to drain antifreeze - clean it all up with brakekleen - make sure good and dry - take off water pump again - remove plug ( honestly ) I dont know what that is but looks like half a freeze plug - or if you dont care - ( not that i have ever done this ( yea right for those of you in denial ) ) mix up some more JB Weld, that water system is low pressure so might hold for you if you are trying to get running and save $$. 

Its worth a shot i guess but it will be a booger to get it out if you ever need to so remember that before you go that direction. 

I actually fixed a cracked oil path on 2.0 mazda diesel head with jbweld ( admittedly ) and it ran for 90K miles like that before teh head finally crapped out. I know I would have to go that direction some day so WTHeck sometimes its ok when you dont have the $$. 

 

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47 minutes ago, searcyfarms said:

might need to drain antifreeze - clean it all up with brakekleen - make sure good and dry - take off water pump again - remove plug ( honestly ) I dont know what that is but looks like half a freeze plug - or if you dont care - ( not that i have ever done this ( yea right for those of you in denial ) ) mix up some more JB Weld, that water system is low pressure so might hold for you if you are trying to get running and save $$. 

Its worth a shot i guess but it will be a booger to get it out if you ever need to so remember that before you go that direction. 

I actually fixed a cracked oil path on 2.0 mazda diesel head with jbweld ( admittedly ) and it ran for 90K miles like that before teh head finally crapped out. I know I would have to go that direction some day so WTHeck sometimes its ok when you dont have the $$. 

 

I believe the other half is hidden behind the timing cover.

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12 minutes ago, Turner03 said:

I believe the other half is hidden behind the timing cover.

That plug forms a cavity behind front plate. Debris and moisture collect there causing plug to rust. Probably the cause of your leak. I think he's telling you to fill and seal cavity with epoxy.

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15 minutes ago, Turner03 said:

I believe the other half is hidden behind the timing cover.

oh yes makes sense - sounds like you risk getting coolant in oil then unless the cover is solid in that area, never had that stuff off the front of a 282 but i would guess it would take removing the radiator for work space, get out the wrenches lol start removing things and take lots of pix what do you have to lose? 

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1 minute ago, snoshoe said:

That plug forms a cavity behind front plate. Debris and moisture collect there causing plug to rust. Probably the cause of your leak. I think he's telling you to fill and seal cavity with epoxy.

listen to snoshoe, he knows more about that sucker than i do - personally i would likely take it apart or attempt to and when i got in over my head, visit the guys here for advice with pix or call a guy to come help 

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And now you know the importance of running coolant & electrolysis filters in the cooling system. But it is a 1958 version after all, thats 63 years old and they are probably tired and need replacing anyway. Ifn ya like the tractor and want to keep it around, whilst it's at the fixer up shop, ifn ya got the jingle, do a rebuild & save later headaches.

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17 minutes ago, N S said:

And now you know the importance of running coolant & electrolysis filters in the cooling system. But it is a 1958 version after all, thats 63 years old and they are probably tired and need replacing anyway. Ifn ya like the tractor and want to keep it around, whilst it's at the fixer up shop, ifn ya got the jingle, do a rebuild & save later headaches.

Dry sleeves. Those concerns are nil. That plug usually rusts out from the outside in for reasons previously stated.

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20 minutes ago, N S said:

And now you know the importance of running coolant & electrolysis filters in the cooling system. But it is a 1958 version after all, thats 63 years old and they are probably tired and need replacing anyway. Ifn ya like the tractor and want to keep it around, whilst it's at the fixer up shop, ifn ya got the jingle, do a rebuild & save later headaches.

Yes I agree

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