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1586 clutch adjustment without a T/A


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Hey all,

My 1586 has not been wanting to fully release the clutch to shift gears lately. I can push the clutch in and the brakes and it will stop, but once I take it out of gear, it just wants to sit and grind trying to go into gear. I've seen all sorts of things on adjusting ones with a t/a, but is there anything I can adjust on one without a T/a? Arey linkages worn out or am I needing a new throw out bearing or something? Clutch was replaced 3-4 years ago if I remember right. Any help is appreciated!

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The Transmission brake rod on the right side needs adjustment , Have a helper push the clutch pedal down til the clutch just releases and adjust the transmission brake rod a half of hole longer and reinstall the pin

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There are several possibilities. Clutch disc overheated and warped, release bearing grinding release fingers off, pilot bearing starting to lockup. There's a bracket right under clutch assist cylinder that holds a bell crank for the linkage, make sure it's not broke. That bracket was changed a little bit to make it stronger. Start with linkage adjustments but in my opinion it sounds like more than adjustments. But that's just me.

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Should be a lot simpler to adjust without a TA. Just free play and the transmission brake...

I see you mentioned "push in the clutch AND the brakes." I hardly ever use the brakes. Will the tractor stop on flat ground withOUT the brakes or does it just keep driving?

But wow, a 1586 without a TA... They don't have enough gears already with 12. I can't imagine being limited to 6.

On second thought, they don't have the RIGHT gears with 12. I can't imagine being limited to 6.

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On 7/1/2021 at 8:03 AM, Matt Kirsch said:

Should be a lot simpler to adjust without a TA. Just free play and the transmission brake...

I see you mentioned "push in the clutch AND the brakes." I hardly ever use the brakes. Will the tractor stop on flat ground withOUT the brakes or does it just keep driving?

But wow, a 1586 without a TA... They don't have enough gears already with 12. I can't imagine being limited to 6.

On second thought, they don't have the RIGHT gears with 12. I can't imagine being limited to 6.

It will stop, but it acts like it wants to keep going. I plan to check it out and see what I can see on it. 

It's really not that bad with 6 gears. Low 3 gets used a lot. It had 18.4-38s on it from the factory, I put 18.4-42s on it and it will move. 19 mph on the road which keeps up with most everything else we have.

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Sounds to me like you need to start from scratch and adjust it all out. If nothing gets better you may have some fingers broke on clutch or something. Otherwise like snowshoe said bust it in half.  I like the pedal to let out where I can have my heel still on the floor board. Your trans brake is probably smoked. Hy capacity makes the fix for that. 

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Could have bad cab bushings if this tractor hasn't had the clutch bracket update on the clutch booster 

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On 7/2/2021 at 8:30 AM, bwmuldoon said:

Thanks for the responses everyone, I will check it out and see what I can find. 

Look underneath and make sure lever adj bolts on tip of release lever are still in there (little 5/16 bolt on tip of lever with lock nut) Was real common to have one fall out. I use to tack weld every bolt after having a few hiccups. You can replace a finger without splitting tractor if your pp has the bolt hole to compress springs. This was a job I had to do any times.

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Farmall Doc posted this years ago, I've been adjusting clutches like this since. Just ignore the part about ta and oil tellight and it works for me.

"I thought i'd put this here since I seem to type it out often. Not that I mind, but my typing skills are not that great.. hehe. This is a good reference to set up the clutch, TA and trans brake adjustments on all of the '06 through '86 series tractors. I have found that these settings are the best to provide the best performance from these great tractors....don't let anyone tell you that you can't shift them!!
First thing that I do is disregard everything that's written in the service manuals.... Not that they're wrong, but when they are set up right they shift nice up and down through the gears if you "think before you shift" hehe.
Check that when the TA is forward in Direct Drive position that the snap ring is bottomed out on the spool- this is VERY important!

First thing to do is to set up the clutch with extra free play. This is usually to your own liking, but I set them up so that the tractor starts to move when the heel of your boot is still on the floor. This makes it easier to feather the clutch for hitching equipment or moving a few feet in the lineup at at the elevator. Don't make any adjustments on the booster, only on the turnbuckle going on down to the clutch release shaft (which requires a 9/16" wrench to loosen the locking block and a large flat screwdriver to turn the adjusting screw on the '86 series and two 15/16" wrenches on the older models without the booster, or two 3/4' wrenches with a booster). Once you have this adjustment where it is comfortable, make sure that the lube oil tellite is operating on the dash. It should come on when the clutch is pushed all the way down. Adjust the linkage so that when in High range, 3rd gear the light should go out just before the tractor starts to move as you slowly let the clutch out. Now adjust the transmission brake. Run the tractor at idle speed while the speed transmission is in 3'rd gear. Push on the clutch and count 1-2-3- and try to slowly shift to high range. It should go in nicely with only a "clunk" from the gears. Any adjustment tighter than this will make it difficult to shift on-the-go. Try to adjust this accordingly. Remember to break loose the jamb nut before removing the locking pin.... they sometimes require a little persuasion.
I have been setting them up this way for quite some time (and follow the order) and it has worked well. Remember to lube all of the shift linkages on top of the transmission from time to time, and you will have a super nice useable tractor.

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