Jump to content

Need help please


Recommended Posts

Hi my brother and I just got offered 2 td18 one was complete and running when the previous owner had all the undercarriage serviced with new pins bearing and sprockets. The other as parts which also run when he parked it. But he never put it back together . All pads. bearing guides sprockets, sits on pallets with bucket of bolts.    The tree we cut out of the frame to work on it's been sitting more then 35 years. Any how  I went through the electrical/gas side . Cleaned all the points new fule line cleaned carb ignition and anything else that was on that side. And be hold got it fired with in minutes of cranking, and on all cylinders quite  loud with out mufflers the pure sound and hp made my arm hairs stand up.  The question I have is I can't get the governor pump to send full to the injectors.  I've cracked the lines to get rid of air. I've bypassed the fule tank with a priming pump moved the handle to switch to diesel as it runs but for the life of me can't get it to go. . Any suggestions would be appreciated.  I would hate to see these things go for scrap if we can't drive them out of there .  All the decals name plates are missing on this complete machine. I've been told it's 1950 . The governor pump has a cap on top for what I thought was diesel but turn out its oil. 

Screenshot_20210624-143251_Gallery.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Correct the injection pump takes about a pint of 10W if it sat that long things probably have dried out, Are you trying to run it through those old filters or straight into the auxiliary pump?

If you have it running on gas you can bump the gas switch over lever a bit and it primes your diesel side, do you get any movement on the gauge on the side of the pump?

You should throw a little 2 stroke or atf in your diesel fuel for extra lubricity

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the gauge is accurate as shown in the picture and not just stuck, there should be plenty of fuel to run on diesel.  As Hardtail mentioned, bumping the the switchover lever closer to diesel while running on gas allows diesel fuel to flow through the system and you might be able to bleed the injectors for air present while running on gas.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, hardtail said:

f you have it running on gas you can bump the gas switch over lever a bit and it primes your diesel side

IIRC on a TD 6 you just open the diesel throttle some.  There will be white smoke when the diesel gets through the injectors

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you for replies 

I think the gauge is stuck . I drained the governor pump what I thought was dirty diesel that came out. Didn't realize it was oil so I poured new diesel in it thinking that's what it was all the way to to the screen . Thank God it was diesel with some lubrication, it's been sitting in there for over 2 weeks. Maybe it will free things up.  I will drain that and put oil in it. I've by passed the tank only,my next thing was to directly by pass the filters. Can I remove the cover off the side that has the a letter on it to see if anything is tuck. On one of the corner screws on the cover has a safety wire to not sure if I will screw anything up by doing that . Should I put a gauge on there from something else to see if I'm getting any pressure.  Not sure about the throttle handle which way it should be . The old owner doesn't remember but he does remember that the governor pump was rebuilt not long before he parked it. I've been pulling it up on the throttle and decompression lever down . 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

...had the same issue recently with a long sitting, sheded, Ruston  Hornsby four cylinder...tried everything..no luck...pulled the injection pump off, andit was just ''gummed up' so badly.the plungers etc wouldn't work. This engine had been sitting, dry as said,for fifteen years or more..Now runs beautiifully..

Had the old TD9 giving the same problem....(One I brought home...again, sitting outside   for who knows how many years..)Pulled it apart, from  IH Diesel pump Manual...cleaned up..away it went....bit ''fiddley''messing with the pump...but cleaned in approved solvent...
Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Think of the injection pump cover with the A on it as it’s crankcase and the upper portion is where all your fine precision parts with fuel metering reside, I’m pretty sure your problem will be in the top. These are a dual plunger pump if you disconnect that lever on the side and remove the A cover and gently move that lever back and forth you might be able to see what is moving and what isn’t, I wouldn’t get too aggressive forcing stuff not many places work on these anymore, there is a little pump on the end of the injection pump that feeds the big one, sometimes the issue is there, it’s just a small gear pump to boost pressure to feed the main one, search scavenger valve to learn more about that side, also search @M Diesel

Can you get new filters? You say need to move to avoid scrapping, is the UC on? They will not develop much power on gas but will move enough to load if everything else is working 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry what is UC. Where does the pumpnget it's timing from to fire at the proper time. Is it the shaft in front of it. Could I run a cleaner through the lines by hand to see if it would free it up. I use gun cleaner for paint guns. On carbs removes the old gas like nothing just amazing.  Wonder if that would work. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's awesome thank you. 

As for the other questions the picture say a 1000 words . The orange td18 is for parts that drove on its own power many many years ago . The one with the roof is the one we are trying to resurrect. Lots of parts to put together once it's running on diesel. Lots a question to come 

20210625_191739.jpg

20210625_191806.jpg

20210625_191810.jpg

20210625_191832.jpg

20210625_191842.jpg

20210625_191907.jpg

20210625_192013.jpg

20210625_192030.jpg

20210625_192035.jpg

20210625_192040.jpg

20210625_192125.jpg

20210625_192147.jpg

20210625_192216.jpg

20210625_192157.jpg

20210625_192229.jpg

20210625_192246.jpg

20210625_192401.jpg

20210625_192642.jpg

20210625_192740.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is enough parts for both machines laying in the grass . He took it apart 35 years ago to have all the pins and bushing re done and new guides I think is what he said. I'm reading the pump instructions how do I positively know that I have a 18a pump. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

48 minutes ago, Ian Beale said:

Looks to me like that injection pump in the photo might be a Bosch?

2x book doesnt apply,how ever SOME bosch parts are available

likely gummed up,as per 100 other posts on the cleaning,but.....near impossible to find

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Ian Beale said:

Looks to me like that injection pump in the photo might be a Bosch?

...yes....I agree

..those new sprocket rims would be like hens teeth....

..Nice looking country....where are you located...(I see some hills.....:) ) 

..the 18 pictured started...eventually.......so yours will  !!!    ...also note how the mag was substituted.....

Mike

photo 6.png

post-157-1208777698.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think the weld on sprocket rims are still available from Henderson manufacturing, what is your plan for these and timeframe to remove from the property? And equipment there to help?

There are a lot of sought after parts there but it is a big job ahead, after 35 yrs it will be firmly planted

Each machine has a different injection pump the A is early IH, the other is Bosch which were usually used on early TD 18’s, the timing is adjusted by the drive coupling position on the pump, I wouldn’t move it until your certain the fuel side is clean

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Maybe we should call them winchy and brokeback??

The 3 filters in a row is TD18 and older than the other, the injection pump lines are different between the IH A pump and the Bosch, I believe Bosch parts were still available but that whole sector is rapidly disappearing these days so who knows where that is at in the last year, I would just suggest that you are certain everything on the fuel side is working correctly before adjusting timing

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you for all info . I'm in lumby bc the td18s are about 800m from my house I have old 180 cat excavator a  tractor and a 655 Ford backhoe so I figured between all those I should be ok. The old timer had the yellow td on blocks up in the air but they sunk roted away. He lifted the machine with just the blade by putting blocks far back enough so it would teter on them. When we had it running on gas we tried the hydraulics and surprisingly they lifted the blade. As for time frame I called the property owner and told him that we got half of it running all he did is laugh.  He not woried about how long we take he's just glad someone is doing something. So that was great new on our end. When we started it for the first time we had no water in it. As we were just trying to get it going. Once it run we put water in it to find out that the water pump was leaking like crazy as well as small pin holes in the steel pipes that carry coolant.  We are just going to keep adding water till we get the diesel side going. Are the water pumps rebuildable. With generic parts. .sorry for the long story . I'm just excited and lots to say.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a Galion 118 grader that had a little bit smaller engine than your 18, it had a UD554 engine. When I got it the lower radiator hose was off and the radiator and block were full of mice nests. I tore apart the radiator and cleaned and resealed it, and flushed and flushed the block until it came out clean, although there was just no way to get everything out of the places you couldn't reach. It ran great, worked great until one day it got a hot spot and cracked a head. I believe a part of a mouse nest that I didn't get out got moved somewhere it didn't belong, and it made a hot spot that cracked the head. I was always real careful about start up and shut down. Anyway, I was able to have the water pump rebuilt, but it took about 6 months until they were able to figure out what to do with it since parts weren't available. They found a shaft/bearing that would work or be made to work, and I believe had the ceramic seal custom made. They said they hadn't done one like it as long as any of the old boys could remember. As long as the impeller is good, somebody should be able to redo it somehow. I sold my engine minus the new clutch, injection pump, and water pump for parts to a fellow in Utah I believe. Seems this guy built WD9 engines, (maybe for pulling? I can't remember...) as the 554 supposedly used the same impossible to find rods, sleeves, pistons, valves, as the WD9 engines. Anyway, I sold the rebuilt water pump to a fellow from southern Illinois that had the same 118 Galion. Still have the high dollar new clutch setting on the shelf (who knows why?) and I still have the injection pump, an A pump like yours, that worked great when it cracked the head. It has been setting on the shelf for about 4 years, it was filled with oil when I did. If you get in a tough place and can't get it going, if you wanted to pay shipping on it (it's heavy), I could send it to you to see if it still works ok. If it does we can figure something out, if not, you could keep it for parts. Just an idea if you get into a tough spot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There should be grease zerks for your water pump bearings, can you tell where it is leaking from on the pump? I could look in the service manual but I’m pretty sure you can pull the pump with rad in place, I would place some heavy cardboard in front of the rad before removing the fan, looks like someone replaced the belt with a link style a long time ago, start putting your favourite weasel pi$$ in the sheave threads now, one half is adjustable for tension, the hard lines you may have to make or repair depending on how perforated they are.

Welcome to the board, Browns might have a lead on some rarer parts, I got some parts for mine from an abandoned 18 near Valemount, my Grandpa is buried near Lumby, heck I’m looking at the yard of sawmill operations and it looks like you have enough lifts sitting there to order a D7T right now, I will try and ping @magicmikey he is over the hill in Kamloops and is an incredible resource of knowledge and maybe machine locations

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The gas start IH diesels all have weak heads. If treated very carefully they can last a really long time. Always let it run and cool down before shutting them off. The old timers that used them without having head trouble would park next to the fuel tank fill them up, do other little adjustments and after 15 minutes of idling then shut them off. Never run them low on coolant. I understand your not worrying about leaks at this point, but be prepared and have water available real close.

In this part of the world good heads maybe one of the harder things to find for any of them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...