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Case 580 C Alternator / fan belt replacement


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Hello, 

 

     My search has been unsuccessful, so would anyone have experience changing the fan/alt belt on my Case 580C. I have the radiator guard off and the 2 bolts off of the Hyd pump. I'm thinking that the pump needs to be moved forward on the drive splines to give enough room to slide the belt through. This would require the rigid hoses to be removed from the pump. What is the correct procedure to slide the pump forward with out damage? Some comments on another site talked about removing the engine mounts?? Any help would be appreciated. 

Thanks, Curly

 

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Kurly, Not 100% sure on this but I think the coupler can be unbolted from the pulley and slid apart and leave the pump mounted.  The problem will be that the coupler and splines are probably worn and will cause some difficulty.  Good luck.  I have read about linked belts where as you would not have to deal with the pump drive.  Haven't ever used one.

Beings you are in Racine, just walk across the street and ask the Case guys.  Just kidding.

Dennis

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 I have one of those but it has been a long time. Have had the belts replaced twice. Never removed engine mounts but the pump has to be removed. If the drive couplings are worn replacing the part off the crank can buy you a lot of time. During one of those deals the radiator was out but I do not know if the was required for belt replacement.

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Yes, I have a linked belt on my F-12 (no generator)so I didn't have to remove the starter shaft and radiator. Been so long I don't remember were I got it. We don't even have a Case Construction Dealer near us. I use the ag dealer in Burlington, or internet. Thanks for the ideas.

 

Kurly

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I removed the pump, not too bad as I soaked the spline with PB Blaster. I then could see the 4 bolts from the coupler, but the coupler bolts would have been very difficult for me to remove and reinstall. Once the pump was off the belt change was a breeze. Wire wheeled the splines and applied antiseeze for the next time. I used a little shorter belt than OEM, 17510 instead of the OEM 17515. I had to pull both bolts out of the alternator to get the belt onto the pully, but lots of room for adjustment now. 

 

Thanks, Kurly

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Good job Kurly, treating the splines is a good thing.  Happy tractoring.

Thanks for reporting back.  Wish more folks would.  So often we never hear the outcome.

Dennis

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