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756 Gas Oil Pan bolts won't stay tight


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Have bean having this issue with our 756 gasser.  Starting last summer we haven't been able to keep the oil pan bolts tight/keep the gasket from leaking.  Have talked with a couple forum members and had some good ideas given.......am wondering if anyone else has had this issue.  We are on our 5th try right now........and it started leaking again yesterday......bolts are loose again.  We can tighten them in the morning and by evening (front mount cultivator tractor) they are loose again.  Have cleaned out the bolt holes, tried new bolts and lock washers, loctite, made sure pan lip is true and straight, inspected pan for cracks/deformities.  Am thinking maybe dampener pulley is going bad.........at least I think that's next on the list to try.  Grandpa bought this tractor new and was never an issue until last year.  Any ideas/help would be appreciated!

756.jpg

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Pretty tractor, I had similar trouble with the front pan bolts on a 5288 i finally chased out the threads with a bottoming tap,flushed holes with brakleen and used a little locktite,worked for me.

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8 hours ago, ELS1466 said:

Have bean having this issue with our 756 gasser.  Starting last summer we haven't been able to keep the oil pan bolts tight/keep the gasket from leaking.  Have talked with a couple forum members and had some good ideas given.......am wondering if anyone else has had this issue.  We are on our 5th try right now........and it started leaking again yesterday......bolts are loose again.  We can tighten them in the morning and by evening (front mount cultivator tractor) they are loose again.  Have cleaned out the bolt holes, tried new bolts and lock washers, loctite, made sure pan lip is true and straight, inspected pan for cracks/deformities.  Am thinking maybe dampener pulley is going bad.........at least I think that's next on the list to try.  Grandpa bought this tractor new and was never an issue until last year.  Any ideas/help would be appreciated!

756.jpg

Do they all come loose or just enough  bolts to start leaking? If option ‘b’, is it always the same ones ? I’d find out about that balancer right away, could break the nose off the crank.

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They seem to all work loose, although the front are normally more loose than the rear.  Then usually starts leaking from the front of the pan........had a local shop tell us the cork gasket is the problem.    I can understand that to a point.  Haven't been able to find a rubber pan gasket yet.  Plan on tearing into it yet today or Monday.  We found a balancer..........plan on swapping and at least we can rule that out.  Thanks for the replies!

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5 hours ago, ELS1466 said:

They seem to all work loose, although the front are normally more loose than the rear.  Then usually starts leaking from the front of the pan........had a local shop tell us the cork gasket is the problem.    I can understand that to a point.  Haven't been able to find a rubber pan gasket yet.  Plan on tearing into it yet today or Monday.  We found a balancer..........plan on swapping and at least we can rule that out.  Thanks for the replies!

I cant believe thread lock wouldnt work.  The red stuff is as good as a nasty crossthread if done right.  

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It's possible the balancer is going out.  

Did the bolt loosening just start out of the blue?

Are you putting sealer on the gasket or dry? 

I haven't had any problem getting them sealed up, but there's got to be something going on with yours to keep doing it. 

I use a light skim of grey rtv on both sides of cork gasket, and dry bolts. 

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You have a vibration issue somewhere I would say the balancer is a good start.  It could also be idler gear loose or flywheel/clutch.  My recipe on those cork gaskets is dress them up good with the Right Stuff which is a urethane based sealer, that makes it alot tougher on oils and fuel compared to silcone.  Remember be generous but not excessive, if it is ousing out it is also ousing inside the crankcase.

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I wouldn't use red loctite myself but blue and give it 24 hours or more to cure and it shouldn't come lose I wouldn't think. Sounds like a good idea to check your balancer like you plan on too. 

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Are the bolts actually loose, or is the gasket just leaking, or you think it is leaking?

Is the oil coming from further up?

Crank seal, front cover, etc..

Dye has been used in the oil and then look it over with a cheap black light flashlight from Wal-Mart.

The leak will show up in a hurry with that stuff.

NAPA makes Balkamp BK 7652661 which is dye rated for engine oil, etc.

They should have the black lights too.

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X 2 on the comment of loose parts on the other end, if balancer good. Never touched 756, does it have any sort of inspection cover so you can see the clutch? I wonder if it lost a button off the disc would that make much vibration. 

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i am sure you are barking up the wrong tree! 5 times??? locktite ??? it dont even make sense. plus do you know there is different locktites, the blue stff is the one to use in this case, oops i mean ihc and there is no way in heck those bolts will come loose. are you sure you are chasing the right leak?  i have worked on oil rigs and the mud shaker  vibrates day after day and have yet to see bolts come loose.  i do not believe they are coming loose rubber or cork makes no difference. plus is it you doing the work or someone else.? plus the oil pan gasket will not be leaking like your saying... better check your front seal. i been around engines all my life and you dont have me convinced . 

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Thanks for all the replies.......yes the bolts are coming loose and then the pan starts to leak.  I know what you mean rustred.....it isn't making sense.......we just haven't found the right tree yet.  We have had 2 different mechanics locally try to get it........they haven't succeeded, so we are back to trying to figure it out ourselves.  I haven't explored anything on the other end.......but that is something we will look into.  

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