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Farmall C 6V


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new to me Farmall C it is still a 6 volt system, now i dont know much or really anything about 6 volt systems, from what i've figured it must be positive ground which i still dont fully understand , positive to the frame neg to starter,  just that when i hook the start cable up i seem to get some quick sparks when it touches then good, turns overfine but still havent gotten it to start yet, still not sure if its fuel or spark related yet, previous owner painted it rattle can style which looks ok from 6 ft away and cover alot of stuff 

 

am i doing something wrong what sparks are comin out? i just figre the battery was that way just due to the size of cable ends and size on battery and hooked it that way 

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yes its positive ground as pretty well all 6 volt stuff was from that erra. if it is sparking when hooking up the cables then you have either the switch on or something is turned on like the lights or ignition, or stuck regulator contacts.  hope your not boosting it. think 60 ft away would be better, lol.

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Thanks no i'm not boosting it just bought a new battery today ive had this tractor for a couple year i bought it out of a collection at paradise valley ab figured it was time to either get it running or sell it, i found my test light and i think i have thing narrowed down to a bad coil i got power all over up but no spark on plugs, the points on both side have power as well as the coil but nothing on the spark plugs  when i took the coil off there was a bit of a rattle 

 

the previous owner put it away right new oil in motor and drained the tank and carb out 

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worked at it abit today still having some sparking when i put the battery cables on, the only thing i cant figure out is the generator is getting warm while trying to crank it, which we havent done very much of as i think the new battery i bought yesterday is no good, still no spark at the plugs either 

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Probably have contacts stuck in the voltage regulator if it is sparking and the gen is getting hot. Can pop cover off the voltage reg and make sure there is a gap between all the contacts. Or just unhook wires going to gen for now but keep track of where they go. 

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4 hours ago, MinnesotaFarmall said:

Also should not have power to both sides of ignition points if they are open.

by voltage regulator I'm guessing you mean the square electrical box? if so this one doesn't have one, i really don't care if the charging system works or not as much as this tractor will run i just want it to start and run, gonna replace a few old wires tomorrow and see if that changes anything, i have power to the coil and the the hot point of distributor point but no spark in there 

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8 hours ago, wheatking said:

by voltage regulator I'm guessing you mean the square electrical box? if so this one doesn't have one, i really don't care if the charging system works or not as much as this tractor will run i just want it to start and run, gonna replace a few old wires tomorrow and see if that changes anything, i have power to the coil and the the hot point of distributor point but no spark in there. 

Yes, the square box. If it is stuck on, it will cause your battery to drain, or even, if it gets warm enough a fire. I'd pop it open or unhook it with wires labeled just to be on safe side. If pos ground, unhook the wire coming from the coil going to the distributor. If you have voltage on the coil post now, then your coil is good and the points need replaced or cleaned if you have no spark. Could also be your cap and rotor. Make sure there are no large amounts of carbon on your contact points on the cap and the rotor, also make sure it's going around. Pull cap off and crank engine over and watch it for movement. Make sure rotor is orientated to the dist shaft correctly. It fits down over the top of it only one way. 

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this tractor doesnt have one of those square boxes so i'm guessing the points are maybe bad, i filed them a touch and there's power there but just no spark really odd but i'm not even sure of the previous owner even had it running can everything (pints/ condenser) be changed in the distributor on the tractor or be taken off for repairs?

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You can leave it on. It's not a hard task to do. Make sure to get correct gap for the points, and also make sure you are on top of the distributor cam lobe when you are setting them. 

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9 hours ago, wheatking said:

this tractor doesnt have one of those square boxes so i'm guessing the points are maybe bad, i filed them a touch and there's power there but just no spark really odd but i'm not even sure of the previous owner even had it running can everything (pints/ condenser) be changed in the distributor on the tractor or be taken off for repairs?

Although it doesn't have a square box, it isn't normally hooked up to the ignition system. It only controls the rate of charge amperage back to the battery. Some systems have the light power run from the voltage regulator box, but I don't recall if yours will. 

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11 hours ago, MinnesotaFarmall said:

Although it doesn't have a square box, it isn't normally hooked up to the ignition system. It only controls the rate of charge amperage back to the battery. Some systems have the light power run from the voltage regulator box, but I don't recall if yours will. 

would you suppose the run and stop switch could be bad not telling it to fire even with power at the points?? just a though i had in my travels today 

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If you don't have power at the points, then do you have power going into your coil? If yes, then unhook the wire going to the points and see if there is power coming out of the stud that would go to the points. If there is, your coil is good, if no, then your coil is bad and needs replaced. 

 

If there is no power going to your coil, then I would suspect, fuse, ignition switch, or wire going to coil, in that order. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

finally getting alittle rain so back into the shop working on the C i bought a new condensor and points and no change, i don't know what way to go now i'm kinda lost now i still have power at the point just no spark 

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If you don't have spark, you don't have power at the points. How are you testing this? You might have voltage, but a poor connection that will not let current flow.

Try hot wiring the coil directly to the negative terminal of the battery. Assuming you have positive ground.

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i'm sure the system is positive ground, as the generator and the starter part number come up as 6 V i'm testing just with a test light at the moment i cant find a ohm meter, just when i touch the coil bolt on the outside of the distributer it lights up and when i turn it over it sorta dims abit like its pulsing a spark but i cant physically see a spark between the points, the only thing i can sorta think of right now is the on off switch isnt doing anything cause nothing changed when i pull it out or push it in as i still have power to everything, both sides of the coil and the points 

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It's possible switch is bad but I doubt it. There are two terminals on that switch. Disconnecting either should shut current off. If it doesn't. Switch is not problem. We know there is creative wireing because of generator getting warm and no cutout. I think that is your current switch problem but not why it doesn't run. Couple questions. Did you replace the coil with the rattle? You think your new battery is bad. Why. Does it crank slow or lose charge?

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yes i bought a new coil at napa, i found my load tester and the battery holds a charge but does seem to turn over slower than i expected, but this is my first 6 volt system tractor,  ive been putting a charger on it and turning it over to make it really spin for a few seconds to see if theres spark, 

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1 hour ago, snoshoe said:

Your test light seems to indicate points are functioning. Have you checked for spark right at coil or only at plugs?

both but ive mainly been watching points while turning it over 

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Voltage on distributer side of coil should be 0 when points are closed. Battery or cranking voltage when open. Indicated by blinking test light. If you have that and no spark at coil. What is wrong with coil?

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On 7/5/2021 at 11:59 AM, wheatking said:

i'm sure the system is positive ground, as the generator and the starter part number come up as 6 V i'm testing just with a test light at the moment i cant find a ohm meter, just when i touch the coil bolt on the outside of the distributer it lights up and when i turn it over it sorta dims abit like its pulsing a spark but i cant physically see a spark between the points, the only thing i can sorta think of right now is the on off switch isnt doing anything cause nothing changed when i pull it out or push it in as i still have power to everything, both sides of the coil and the points 

The test light should clearly blink on/off/on/off when on the - post of the coil with the wire attached from there to the points. If it just dims, the point gap likely isn't wide enough with a new set of points. This is obviously when cranking.

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Wheatking.....

your very first post says what is wrong.  You said when" I hook up the start cable, I get a quick spark".  

You have a short going to ground.  The spark that you should have when you hook up any kind of battery is tiny if any at all.

A quick battery check is simply hook a VOM across the battery and watch for a few minutes.  If things are shorted and draining the battery the battery voltage will drop from the average 6.8 to 6.0, 5.5, ect. 

With the battery unhooked, disconnect the wires going to the generator, then make sure your start pull switch is pushed in.  Hook up the battery...do you have the spark like before, or is it gone.

Until you find and temporary disconnect the item that causes the short, that tractor will never run.  Meanwhile the 6 volt battery is being drained.  Not much reserve in a little 6 volt battery.  It also could be short or grounded starter.

If you have the crank that goes in the hole just below the radiator, pull out the start switch and try to crank it.  Our C would start with the crank faster than with the starter.    

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If you have electricity at the outside post on the distributor,  but nothing at the points.  Check to see that the plastic insulator that the stud passes through is not cracked.  Your short to ground could be right there.

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Little off the wall, but check everything above. What type of plug wires do you have? Are they copper core wires? Are they pushed all the way into the distributor and to the coil? Are the cap and rotor in good condition and not caked up with carbon? How are you testing for spark? Through the spark plugs? If you are, are they grounded out well. Sometimes when you just rest them against the engine block, they will not produce good spark if all other component are weak. And for god sakes unhook the generator before it starts on fire and burns something down. If it's getting hot, there is a problem there.

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