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UD 282 on a portable water pump is having injector pump issues


Bucky B
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This pump was running great the end of last years irrigation season, it was shut off and put away for the winter. We pulled it out to service it for this year, changed all the fuel and oil filters, changed the oil, verified fuel to the pump, replaced a couple of weeping gaskets. stuck a water hoes in the pump and tried to fire it up, no smoke at all. It barked on ether. I can hear the fuel shut off solenoid pulling but still the fuel rack isn't allowing fuel. I pulled the solenoid cap off and drained the cavity so I can see the gov spring and linkages. I cannot make any of the levers move at all with my fingers. This pump was r/b by an injector shop about 4 years ago. 

What is my next move? If it needs to go back to the inj repair shop we will probably junk the engine and repower with a turbo powered engine or PTO driven. Can afford to drop $1200 every 4 yrs. to keep it running. The cattle market will not allow it, lol.

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One teensy drop of water in the wrong place can make the metering valve stick. The solenoid doesn’t act directly on the valve, it just moves away and the governor spring opens it. A little rust stain is all it is. Or, gummed up from crappy fuel. 

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there is no rack in the rosa master pump. most likely the delivery valve is stuck. this fuel nowadays does funny things. when u get it running add a pint of 2 cycle oil to the tank of fuel. plus if you know the engine will be down for months make sure it gets oil in the fuel.

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Pulled the pump and took in to the local injection repair shop. He told me it is gummed up from fuel sitting and wants $895. 

That seems a bit stout for a couple of hours labor and a seal kit, no hard parts. Am I wrong or am I in the wrong business?

A repower needs to be done but I need water asap, it will be 109 tomorrow so I do not have a choice now, but a repower will happen this winter. I have a 6bta that will save a bunch on fuel with the throttle barely cracked working on that pump.

Is todays diesel really that crappy that you cant let an engine set for 6 or 8 months? What do you guys do to avoid this, fuel conditioners do not last long enough. Shut the fuel off and run it dry every fall? I do not have fuel issues in any other engines.

 

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18 hours ago, Bucky B said:

Pulled the pump and took in to the local injection repair shop. He told me it is gummed up from fuel sitting and wants $895. 

That seems a bit stout for a couple of hours labor and a seal kit, no hard parts. Am I wrong or am I in the wrong business?

A repower needs to be done but I need water asap, it will be 109 tomorrow so I do not have a choice now, but a repower will happen this winter. I have a 6bta that will save a bunch on fuel with the throttle barely cracked working on that pump.

Is todays diesel really that crappy that you cant let an engine set for 6 or 8 months? What do you guys do to avoid this, fuel conditioners do not last long enough. Shut the fuel off and run it dry every fall? I do not have fuel issues in any other engines.

 

Depends on your location for a particular fuel blend , I guess. When the Bill Clinton fuel came out in ‘92, there were stories everywhere about ruined fuel systems due to low sulfur fuel. In north central Ohio I was never affected by it.  I always regarded these claims with suspicion, because if you take in a pump that failed through lack of lubrication, how do you rebuild it to make it impervious to low sulfur fuel? The original parts were already steel, heat treated, precision ground.... what’s different? Those guys are all crooks. You paid 895 for  4 hours work and 30$ worth of o-rings. And a s**t warranty they’ll find some way to wiggle out of. Back when the 6.9’s were popular we had a lot of trouble with those pumps. I quit shopping on price (average price in the 90s was about $400). Paid this one dude who is thankfully out of business 30% more for unconditional 1 year warranty. 1 week before end of warranty the ESO failed. He said , “Sorry, those are considered like light bulbs and occasionally burn out. But bring it down and I’ll see if I have a used one....” I told him stick his offer in his *** the truck is 70 miles away and won’t start. Problem turned out to be a cracked solder joint on one terminal, just had to heat it up a little and flowed back together.

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On 6/18/2021 at 12:12 PM, Binderoid said:

there were stories everywhere about ruined fuel systems due to low sulfur fuel.

Seems that a lot of that was that the sulphur part swelled the gaskets used .and they sealed better.  With it out they leaked.  I asked about the Bosch license pump on our FA 10 dozer and it has no such gaskets.

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There was all that talk here too. Many added Marvel oil, two stroke oil, or ATF. I talked to fuel supplier they got all their red fuel from a small antiquated refinery that payed a FEE to the state to keep operating without removing all the sulfur. In 5 to 10 years supplier needed new tank farm to supply local area as theirs where still above ground tanks. Instead they opted to haul bobtail loads from their other faculty a hour and a half plus away. Prices showed it, but another player came into the area. And I switched and never gave no sulfur a thought. Until another few years passed. Still have not added anything or had a pump failure. Have had some o rings go bad in 60 year old Cat systems but how long is a o ring made to last.

 

But since I have a number of ran when parked Cat D 6's from the 1950's that all have had the "new" fuel in them rusted and stuck pumps would not surprise me. The most used of my D6's currently was put in a barn in 1985 with the government land retirement. Still had tank full of old 1980's fuel in 2012-14. Burned that fuel without a bit of trouble. I don't think that will be the case with todays fuel.

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The problems I have seen are the result of inactivity and having bio-diesel in the pump. If it is going to be setting for a while you could run it on kerosene to flush the pump and injectors before storing it.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/17/2021 at 2:18 AM, Bucky B said:

Pulled the pump and took in to the local injection repair shop. He told me it is gummed up from fuel sitting and wants $895. 

That seems a bit stout for a couple of hours labor and a seal kit, no hard parts. Am I wrong or am I in the wrong business?

A repower needs to be done but I need water asap, it will be 109 tomorrow so I do not have a choice now, but a repower will happen this winter. I have a 6bta that will save a bunch on fuel with the throttle barely cracked working on that pump.

Is todays diesel really that crappy that you cant let an engine set for 6 or 8 months? What do you guys do to avoid this, fuel conditioners do not last long enough. Shut the fuel off and run it dry every fall? I do not have fuel issues in any other engines.

 

"YES, the fuel is that bad".

Thank You very much federal government?

The steel parts in these pumps will rust, internally, while submerged in diesel fuel.

All diesel users need to change their attitudes towards this new fuel.

Especially those who let an engine set over the winter or for a few months.

It will cost you money if not treated differently.

The Stanadyne Fuel Conditioner is the best and even helps a bit with economy and usually pays for itself.

It sounds like the metering valve is stuck, or the plungers, or the delivery valve.

The metering valve can be removed on the engine.

Try that first and if it don't fix it, then the pump has to come off.

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