Jump to content

986 A/C question


tmarch
 Share

Recommended Posts

Ran 2 more cans in. These are my readings. Compressor never shut off and high pressure side wont go over 200. I got the temp coming out of the vents down to about 55 degrees. And i do see condensation on the low side line and compressor now. Not sureif i should pick up another can.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If this is during the heat of the day then you could add a little more. But I don't know that take the whole can. Maybe use it like this and see how it works. 134 systems don't like to be low, they will not cool. R12 systems would cool until dang near empty. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was hoping to get it close to 250, its really hot and humid today so I would think that would be ok. And this is a R-134a system with the york compressor i believe. I jist thought I had enough in it by now that the compressor would at least start to cycle. Maybe the system will have leaked out in a few days.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it's really hot out and you have the thermostat turned way cold it may not cycle, depending on the condition of condenser, evaporator, and insulation. If you want it to cycle you may have to back thermostat down. But of course it won't cool as good. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/15/2021 at 7:16 PM, Missouri Mule said:

The next time I have a compressor fail I'm just buying the whole entire sanden conversion. New everything. Done....  

Not trying to get into a debate about sanden vs York,  however the new kits are much better hoses made for 134a unline earlier 86 series. My tri stripe has newer hoses. Not sure if ih changed them or if they had been changed out along its life. I do have 1 with the conversion already and its hands down colder than my others. Everything is cleaned and kept up to as good of shape as possible. I'm not an AC guy but if we could still use R12 I think we would have alot less trouble. 

Where could I find the sanden conversion? I'm about to tear into an 886.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/18/2021 at 2:51 PM, tmarch said:

jist thought I had enough in it by now that the compressor would at least start to cycle.

Clutch is only gonna cycle if the low side is too low or the high side is too high. At least on a really hot day ( 85 plus) now on a cool day the low side might get low enough to cycle on and off.  even if correctly charged.  At least that is my Understanding? 

   If its low and not cycling off compressor I can agree with Mule about checking to see if your pressure switches are jumpered  out. But I'm no expert either. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, iowaboy1965 said:

Clutch is only gonna cycle if the low side is too low or the high side is too high. At least on a really hot day ( 85 plus) now on a cool day the low side might get low enough to cycle on and off.  even if correctly charged.  At least that is my Understanding? 

   If its low and not cycling off compressor I can agree with Mule about checking to see if your pressure switches are jumpered  out. But I'm no expert either. 

The thermostat is what causes clutch to cycle. High and low switches will cause it to lock out and not run untill reset.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/18/2021 at 4:54 PM, Tipton said:

Where could I find the sanden conversion? I'm about to tear into an 886.

 

On 6/19/2021 at 2:11 PM, nepoweshiekfarmalls said:

AP Air is another good source. 

AP Air is my favorite choice.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I removed the roof lid because i wanted to make sure the evaporator is clean, and I am upgrading the fan assembly to the high efficiency one. Im assuming there is supposed to be a piece of foam underneath the evaporator and heater core to keep air from blowing around them? The one on the roof lid is fine, I replaced that a few years ago. The one underneath everything is sopping wet and I'm wondering if thats normal? I can see where water has been sitting in the bottom around the fan and such. I know my condensation drain isnt plugged because water drains out of that. I guess Im wondering where the drain is at under the roof because I want to make sure its clear and water doesnt pool up. 

My old fan is 4 wire motor, I'm assuming the high efficiency one will hook up directly to fan switch also? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, tmarch said:

I removed the roof lid because i wanted to make sure the evaporator is clean, and I am upgrading the fan assembly to the high efficiency one. Im assuming there is supposed to be a piece of foam underneath the evaporator and heater core to keep air from blowing around them? The one on the roof lid is fine, I replaced that a few years ago. The one underneath everything is sopping wet and I'm wondering if thats normal? I can see where water has been sitting in the bottom around the fan and such. I know my condensation drain isnt plugged because water drains out of that. I guess Im wondering where the drain is at under the roof because I want to make sure its clear and water doesnt pool up. 

My old fan is 4 wire motor, I'm assuming the high efficiency one will hook up directly to fan switch also? 

You want the clutch to NOT cycle in hot conditions. This is much different than newer styles with orifice etc. Newer ones tend to run colder vent temps but cycle more. Here's what I do. I put cardboard on top my cabin air filter to block off fresh air. These cabs leak enough air you wont lack fresh air. This way it Is forced to recirc through vent in the back on cab. Unless your vent isn't froze up like everyone I've ever been in to turn it to recirc.  What was your ambient temp the day you charged? That would be about where I would stop on a 70* day or so. If it was hotter I'd throw some more at it if it was me. The foam pieces in the corners act as filters to keep your drains from plugging up. There should be 1 drain on each side. When you flush out the coils if you dont hear it sucking air as it drains they aren't clean enough. More times than not water will drain half a$$ out of them and then when you get on a hill water will be running down on your lap. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Missouri Mule said:

You want the clutch to NOT cycle in hot conditions. This is much different than newer styles with orifice etc. Newer ones tend to run colder vent temps but cycle more. Here's what I do. I put cardboard on top my cabin air filter to block off fresh air. These cabs leak enough air you wont lack fresh air. This way it Is forced to recirc through vent in the back on cab. Unless your vent isn't froze up like everyone I've ever been in to turn it to recirc.  What was your ambient temp the day you charged? That would be about where I would stop on a 70* day or so. If it was hotter I'd throw some more at it if it was me. The foam pieces in the corners act as filters to keep your drains from plugging up. There should be 1 drain on each side. When you flush out the coils if you dont hear it sucking air as it drains they aren't clean enough. More times than not water will drain half a$$ out of them and then when you get on a hill water will be running down on your lap. 

yes running compressor all the time

yes leaky cabs run on recirculate 

yes wet foam for sure

yes leaks inside cab when going over hills/bumps

couldnt get evaporator clean enough for good flow on 88 last yr, replaced it all and it made a big diff

lots of foam is deteriorated on all those old tractors and sucked into places, sludge down drains, blah blah it takes time to get it all working well but you are on teh right track

I had someone else do mine, it had been converted to R134a yrs ago but hoses were leaking and o rings and then the evaporator was was questionable from the old hoses too so it got EVERYTHING 

neighbor did everything except his evaporator on his 886 two yrs ago  guess what hes doing this yr - something bout the old hoses contaminating the evaporator before he changed the lines/sanden conversion - not sure if that is accurate or if those hoses can flake apart inside but that is the claim 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Temp was around 85 with high humidity the other day. So far everything sounds normal. Guessing it was just low on refrigerant. I have had water come into the cab from the vents before, didnt know that was normal! Think i might try to block off above cab filter like mentioned.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, tmarch said:

Temp was around 85 with high humidity the other day. So far everything sounds normal. Guessing it was just low on refrigerant. I have had water come into the cab from the vents before, didnt know that was normal! Think i might try to block off above cab filter like mentioned.

I wouldn't say it's normal but certainly not uncommon. Ih should have made that pan another inch deeper. Yes cardboard cut the size of the filter works great. You can leave a little on both ends if your concerned about fresh air. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...