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9370 - Clutch cable replacement - How to properly adjust?


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Hey guys,

 

Weekend is here of course, and with that our local Case dealership is closed. We had to replace the clutch cable on our 9370 with a standard transmission and the service manager said he was going to text us pictures of the procedure to install/adjust the cable properly, and he mustof forgot. So now we have a dead 9370 and seeding left to do, so hoping for some help!! So, I searched the forum.. came across an instruction set for adjusting the master clutch on a 9270 which I would assume would be the same, but we couldn't figure it out. Couldn't seem to get the pedal to touch the travel stop properly, and didn't really understand how much "pressure" we should be pushing with out hand to figure out if the pedal was moving or not?

 

I'm wondering too since we replaced the whole cable, if maybe there is adjustments at the top of the cable on the back of the clutch that we need to have set? I tried to copy what was there in the tractor, so many threads on both the 2 big nuts holding the cable and the number of threads on the clevis at the top... but maybe it wasn't set properly to begin with I'm not sure?

 

So does anyone have any info or instructions we could try tomorrow? This seems like it should be a simple thing to do, but one of those if you don't do it properly I'm guessing we could mess up the clutches in the transmission

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4 hours ago, BigTom209 said:

Hey guys,

 

Weekend is here of course, and with that our local Case dealership is closed. We had to replace the clutch cable on our 9370 with a standard transmission and the service manager said he was going to text us pictures of the procedure to install/adjust the cable properly, and he mustof forgot. So now we have a dead 9370 and seeding left to do, so hoping for some help!! So, I searched the forum.. came across an instruction set for adjusting the master clutch on a 9270 which I would assume would be the same, but we couldn't figure it out. Couldn't seem to get the pedal to touch the travel stop properly, and didn't really understand how much "pressure" we should be pushing with out hand to figure out if the pedal was moving or not?

 

I'm wondering too since we replaced the whole cable, if maybe there is adjustments at the top of the cable on the back of the clutch that we need to have set? I tried to copy what was there in the tractor, so many threads on both the 2 big nuts holding the cable and the number of threads on the clevis at the top... but maybe it wasn't set properly to begin with I'm not sure?

 

So does anyone have any info or instructions we could try tomorrow? This seems like it should be a simple thing to do, but one of those if you don't do it properly I'm guessing we could mess up the clutches in the transmission

Pretty easy, make sure the stop bolt is adjusted to allow the proper amount of travel. I have found this adjustment to be off on about every one I adjusted. I attach a small tie wrap to the cable to measure the stroke distance.

There should be no noticeable pressure felt when at the lower stop until the spool is at full stroke and the pedal moves away from the stop. One tip is to put a piece of paper between the pedal and stop bolt, as the pedal raises up the paper will fall out.

MC Adjustment_001.jpg

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Thank you so much for this, I'm pretty sure our cable like you say is not adjusted properly. There has been transmission work done on this tractor before so I suspect it'll be off, I'll be sure to set the 1.250 inches of cable movement first and foremost.

 

So the guy inside the cab, they are not trying to feel anything really just push the pedal gently down to the stop bolt and hold it there, then the guy underneath just uses a wrench to turn the housing until the pedal is basically being "forced" to move, basically you've found the max end of the valve your trying to adjust and since it can't move anymore the cable has to move and therefore lifting the clutch pedal, if that makes sense

 

 

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We still can’t figure this out... 

 

we took the clutch spring off so we could “feel” the clutch pedal better, and just can’t seem to get it right. 
 

got the guy in the cab, he’s got the pedal gently to the floor, one guy turning the housing on the cable by the transmission and we never really “feel” the pedal move off the stop really. You can feel something, but nothing really serious. 
 

if the guy above lets go of the clutch and the guy underneath turns the housing, you can see the clutch moving in/out depending which way it’s being turned

 

we got it to where we “thought” it was good, I use the term lightly, we kind of played with it a bit and started the tractor, put it in gear and it felt decent you could shift and part way up it would start to pull and have that good “tug” where the clutch fully engages. I drove the tractor home, unhooked the cultivator and then drove down to the shop and did a bit of servicing, then just now started it... shifted into gear and nothing won’t budge. I can shift thru all the gears without the clutch so it’s like the valve is stuck even if I push the clutch in and out??? 
 

something just seems off. And before this all started it was pulling a 45’ deep till cultivator with zero issues. 
 

im stumped where to even start... not sure if we should keep screwing around with the clutch cable? Or maybe it’s something else?

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First off, I hope I’m wrong on this, but…

Make sure the hydraulic pump for the transmission(pump on back side of transmission, straight up from where the dipstick tube fits to the transmission) is turning. The transmission filter is the one on the ladder side of the frame beside the engine. Either screw it off the filter head or crack one of the lines to/from the filter housing. Have someone crank the engine while someone else watches the filter area from a safe distance. If oil doesn’t pour out immediately where it’s unhooked/disconnected, your pump isn’t turning likely due to a sheared roll pin in the pump drive coupling. When that roll pin shears, it has a nasty habit of failing so that it does catch occasionally, causing the pump to drive again…for awhile. Not saying this is your problem yet, but let’s not overlook it. #13 in the picture  B2BF9E18-F294-4A3A-B329-3FDA8ACC6613.thumb.jpeg.7ab641c53964c8f11e094eb4b276b509.jpeg

08DD11E2-EDA3-4B00-8E4D-DD608BB7E43D.jpeg

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I will check that tomorrow 

 

we kept tinkering with the clutch today, basically trial and error. They adjusted the housing again, and this time the tractor would shift into gear but if I put it in low gear the tires on flat pavement would very slowly start turning, ok not engaging the clutch enough cause it’s grabbing... so adjusted the housing again and this time it shifted good, didn’t move, and seemed to drive fine but the clutch would start to grab very close to the stop when we let it up so didn’t like that. So adjusted it again and now it shifts like it used to, and the clutch you have to let off a nice amount, it starts to grab and turn the wheels and then you feel that grab when it hits with full pressure. 
 

it feels really good and we drove it around the yard and shifted thru the gears, we found a steep hill and came to a stop and put it in gear and it took off uphill no problems at all so clutches seem to be grabbing good. 
 

but let me tell you, this little project is sure making us feel stupid. 3 of us working on it, all of which are very mechanically inclined, with what seems like a very simple set of instructions... and yeah just couldn’t get it to work like we thought it should. Working outside during a heat wave isn’t helping either, probably cooked our brains lol 
 

im hopeful it’s set good enough and we can get back at it. We are not planning to be easy on it either, tomorrow it’s getting hooked up to the Lemken Rubin high speed disc... it’ll makes that tractor grunt a bit. 

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If that sheer pin is failing/catching occasionally, if we crack the filter and oil does pour out that wouldn’t necessarily mean it’s good, right? That pin could still be barely hanging on or like you say just partially catching turning the pump 

 

if the pin lets go while say... it’s pulling a high speed very heavy disk at 8MPH+ what would happen? Asking for a friend... ?

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There's a lockout valve mounted on the front of the master clutch control valve that prevents the master clutch from engaging until master clutch spool has been stroked to move the lockout spool to allow fluid to flow to the master clutch.

More info later, we have to go to town, Gale says so.

Back from town, the dogs liked the dog park, their Sausage McMuffins and riding in the car.
This diagram shows the Lock Out valve, item 5, in position to prevent fluid flow to the master clutch
image.thumb.png.819508ac442119556a7f002fd13ed498.png
 

This shows the master clutch spool in the run position after being depressed and going the the modulation phase.
image.thumb.png.3235d8c702d1e33a427bd9084a3f5bfb.png
This an exploded view of the lockout valve. If the spool is sticky and will not shift when the clutch is depressed fully the ifrst time after startup modulation oil cannot go to the master clutch.image.thumb.png.b26f5eb4aa3a164ead1cb9c6ba9aba85.png  

This the master clutch control assembly.
If the modulator spool, item 8,  sticks it will not send oil to the back side of the lockout spool, the lockout spool will not shift against the spring and the master clutch will remain non functional.
Both the lockout and the modulator spools can be removed without removing their blocks from the transmission. Just do not pull item 9 out as it can be a bit of a challenge to get it back into it's bore. image.thumb.png.c3f3fb0bacfb690edc1f127b9d67b84a.png
 

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