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Hydro 70 adventure


idahydro
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Hi folks,

After some lurking around and looking at a bunch of stuff I bought our first tractor -- an International Hydro 70.  We have a hundred or so acres of marginal overgrown pasture and timber in the inland northwest, mostly grazed with a bit in hay.  We've been making do for a long time borrowing machines when needed and lots of manual labor for the rest.

I want to thank the people on this forum whose names I do not know for their replies in other topics that I read to make me comfortable enough evaluating the machine and hydro transmission to make sure it wasn't a total wreck.  Machine has plenty of little issues, a couple slow leaks, it sat for a long time and desperately needs a good cleaning and to be looked over and maintained.  Fluids are pretty grimy.  The brakes are maybe a little weak or need adjustment.

But everything important seems to work, the engine runs like a top, hydro transmission picks up forward and reverse immediately, seems to have loads of power in low while it really scoots in high gear.  Has 2400 ish hours on the meter.  Has 8 or 10 remotes for some reason that eludes me.  Has a cool quick detach loader with a ridiculously high lift.

I ordered copies of the service and owners manuals for the tractor and loader.  I don't intend to use it much until it has been picked over and I've managed to change fluids and filters and other long neglected maintenance items.

This was sold to me as a mid 1980s machine but I didn't think they made the 70 past the late 70s?  I can't make much sense of the serial number.

Otherwise I look forward to figuring out how to put this thing to use.

184661609_3014070118917107_1455214870847805597_n.jpg

IMG_20210529_143143.jpg

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Keep fluids clean,keep all filters up to date,operate the tractor in low range when you work it,throttle up not idling, (hydro not needed to throttle back from forward to reverse,actually makes life harder when you do) forget the foot pedal and get used to ONLY using the Forward/ Reverse hand lever and you will be glad you bought it.i have a hydro 70,1026 both are my go to tractors when I can pick one to fit the bill.

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Welcome!   Looks like you picked up a nice one.

I gotta ask....8-10- remotes..... ?  Does this tractor have 2 or 3 hydraulic remote levers?   Or do you have a "electric select multiplier" plumbed in?

Typically a 70s-80s tractor has 2 remote levers, 2 coupler "pairs" on the back (each pair is one remote).   If you also have 2 coupler pairs under the fuel tank, those were optional for a mounted cultivator.   They are in parallel with the rear couplers, ie....Pull the left lever, both the left rear and left front coupler pair get pressure.   They work good for the loaders too!

If you happen to have 3 levers and 3 sets on the back of the tractor, that would be a rare option or farmer add-on.

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31 minutes ago, Jeff-C-IL said:

Welcome!   Looks like you picked up a nice one.

I gotta ask....8-10- remotes..... ?  Does this tractor have 2 or 3 hydraulic remote levers?   Or do you have a "electric select multiplier" plumbed in?

Typically a 70s-80s tractor has 2 remote levers, 2 coupler "pairs" on the back (each pair is one remote).   If you also have 2 coupler pairs under the fuel tank, those were optional for a mounted cultivator.   They are in parallel with the rear couplers, ie....Pull the left lever, both the left rear and left front coupler pair get pressure.   They work good for the loaders too!

If you happen to have 3 levers and 3 sets on the back of the tractor, that would be a rare option or farmer add-on.

Maybe 2 remotes on the back and a power beyond with 2 lever valve for the loader?  I guess you could say that is 4 remotes with 8 couplers.

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I probably used the wrong terminology when I said remotes, sorry.  The tractor isn't in front of me, but if I recall correctly there are six hydraulic hose connections at the back of the tractor (one set of four and one set of two), two more under the mid right side, and two up front that the loader is attached to.  There is also what looks a set of home-made quick attachment mounts for what might have held a grapple at one point.  You can see it in the picture above, its the two "V" shaped pieces of metal above and a bit behind the bale spear.

I'll post plenty of other pictures when I get a chance.

Quick question I don't totally understand before I screw something up: I've read stern warnings about not letting these tractors roll at all with the engine off and the tractor in gear due to risk of damage to the hydro transmission.  Is this correct? If so this means if the machine isn't on totally flat ground I probably need to put it in neutral and set brake or chock wheels when parking, right?

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I'm not up on the hydro's, but its always a good idea to get in the habit of setting the parking brake or lock anytime you get off a tractor.

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46 minutes ago, idahydro said:

I probably used the wrong terminology when I said remotes, sorry.  The tractor isn't in front of me, but if I recall correctly there are six hydraulic hose connections at the back of the tractor (one set of four and one set of two), two more under the mid right side, and two up front that the loader is attached to.  There is also what looks a set of home-made quick attachment mounts for what might have held a grapple at one point.  You can see it in the picture above, its the two "V" shaped pieces of metal above and a bit behind the bale spear.

I'll post plenty of other pictures when I get a chance.

Quick question I don't totally understand before I screw something up: I've read stern warnings about not letting these tractors roll at all with the engine off and the tractor in gear due to risk of damage to the hydro transmission.  Is this correct? If so this means if the machine isn't on totally flat ground I probably need to put it in neutral and set brake or chock wheels when parking, right?

Always should shift to neutral before dismounting. I think that a hydro 70 only has parking brake latches and not park lock like a 706 up sized tractors and they should be locked 

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10 hours ago, idahydro said:

I probably used the wrong terminology when I said remotes, sorry.  The tractor isn't in front of me, but if I recall correctly there are six hydraulic hose connections at the back of the tractor (one set of four and one set of two), two more under the mid right side, and two up front that the loader is attached to.  There is also what looks a set of home-made quick attachment mounts for what might have held a grapple at one point.  You can see it in the picture above, its the two "V" shaped pieces of metal above and a bit behind the bale spear.

I'll post plenty of other pictures when I get a chance.

Quick question I don't totally understand before I screw something up: I've read stern warnings about not letting these tractors roll at all with the engine off and the tractor in gear due to risk of damage to the hydro transmission.  Is this correct? If so this means if the machine isn't on totally flat ground I probably need to put it in neutral and set brake or chock wheels when parking, right?

Nice looking tractor. We have a loader exactly like that on a 1206, dad had his on a 806 and a 966 for the time period of the 70s they were a very nice heavy loader. Your tractor looks nice and it’s a diesel to boot. You talk of extra hydraulics and other tractors of the age I have been around with a few hydraulics were used in potato operations. My buddy had jd 30 and 50 series tractors. All had triple hydraulics in back plus he had a joy stick with aux loader valve installed on each tractor. No loader just valve and they used all the hyd on a couple certain machines. 

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46 minutes ago, searcyfarms said:

who cares about all that stuff its got AC on the roof!!!! 

And a factory radio.  Not sure how you're supposed to listen to it with the 312 diesel orchestra playing.

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16 hours ago, bitty said:

Always should shift to neutral before dismounting. I think that a hydro 70 only has parking brake latches and not park lock like a 706 up sized tractors and they should be locked 

Yes they only ractchet style  parking brakes and do not trust them for safety in any situation 

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I'm going to order filters.  The hydraulic fluid is a little milky and the oil is pretty dirty.  What I have so far on the list:

2 oil filters (identical)

2 hydraulic filters (one canister; one spin-on)

2 fuel filters (primary and secondary)

Is that right? What else do I need to change to get a good starting point?  I tried to find parts numbers for air filters but couldn't track it down on the awkward CNH website.

Given the milky hydraulic fluid am I ok just to drain, change filters, refill with hytran or should I do some sort of flush?  I understand the hydrostatic transmissions are a little sensitive and probably don't want to be run with any kind of flushing/solvent.

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38 minutes ago, idahydro said:

I'm going to order filters.  The hydraulic fluid is a little milky and the oil is pretty dirty.  What I have so far on the list:

2 oil filters (identical)

2 hydraulic filters (one canister; one spin-on)

2 fuel filters (primary and secondary)

Is that right? What else do I need to change to get a good starting point?  I tried to find parts numbers for air filters but couldn't track it down on the awkward CNH website.

Given the milky hydraulic fluid am I ok just to drain, change filters, refill with hytran or should I do some sort of flush?  I understand the hydrostatic transmissions are a little sensitive and probably don't want to be run with any kind of flushing/solvent.

If it is milky . I would get a couple buckets of the better hydraulic transmission oil from a farm store. Dump it in run it for a hour or 2 then dump it. Then put your hytran in and change filters. Even just changing it once would be okay but that way it is flushed with cheaper oil

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1 hour ago, idahydro said:

I'm going to order filters.  The hydraulic fluid is a little milky and the oil is pretty dirty.  What I have so far on the list:

2 oil filters (identical)

2 hydraulic filters (one canister; one spin-on)

2 fuel filters (primary and secondary)

Is that right? What else do I need to change to get a good starting point?  I tried to find parts numbers for air filters but couldn't track it down on the awkward CNH website.

Given the milky hydraulic fluid am I ok just to drain, change filters, refill with hytran or should I do some sort of flush?  I understand the hydrostatic transmissions are a little sensitive and probably don't want to be run with any kind of flushing/solvent.

If I were you I would use only HY Tran,CIH oil in your Hydro.The little more your going to spend will be PENNIES compared to fixing the Hydro.I know that other oils probably work fine but for peace of mind or at least mine I run Hy Tran in my hydros. But at any rate I wouldn't do much with it until you change oils and filters dirty, water laden oil is not not good for any system but for a Hydro drive it is murder. 

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As suggested above I would only add that I would suggest changing the hydro and hydraulic filters once more after you think you have it cleaned and flushed good enough

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1 hour ago, Jacka said:

If I were you I would use only HY Tran,CIH oil in your Hydro.The little more your going to spend will be PENNIES compared to fixing the Hydro.I know that other oils probably work fine but for peace of mind or at least mine I run Hy Tran in my hydros. But at any rate I wouldn't do much with it until you change oils and filters dirty, water laden oil is not not good for any system but for a Hydro drive it is murder. 

I just suggested 85 dollars of flushing oil. The black bucket oil will work to move water and debris around and then throw it away and fill it with the 150 hytran fill. Or fill with hytran run it dump it fill again

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On 6/3/2021 at 12:09 PM, idahydro said:

I probably used the wrong terminology when I said remotes, sorry.  The tractor isn't in front of me, but if I recall correctly there are six hydraulic hose connections at the back of the tractor (one set of four and one set of two), two more under the mid right side, and two up front that the loader is attached to.  There is also what looks a set of home-made quick attachment mounts for what might have held a grapple at one point.  You can see it in the picture above, its the two "V" shaped pieces of metal above and a bit behind the bale spear.

I'll post plenty of other pictures when I get a chance.

Quick question I don't totally understand before I screw something up: I've read stern warnings about not letting these tractors roll at all with the engine off and the tractor in gear due to risk of damage to the hydro transmission.  Is this correct? If so this means if the machine isn't on totally flat ground I probably need to put it in neutral and set brake or chock wheels when parking, right?

Letting a hydro roll in gear with the engine off will destroy the drive motor in just a few feet.  The "always rule" must be, set the brake, shift range lever to neutral, shut off engine.

On the remote couplers, there was an option for outlets that were mounted on the front underside of the platform. These would have been teed to the rear coupler sets so it was an either/or setup. Either the rear or the front couplers.

6 hours ago, idahydro said:

I'm going to order filters.  The hydraulic fluid is a little milky and the oil is pretty dirty.  What I have so far on the list:

2 oil filters (identical)

2 hydraulic filters (one canister; one spin-on)

2 fuel filters (primary and secondary)

Is that right? What else do I need to change to get a good starting point?  I tried to find parts numbers for air filters but couldn't track it down on the awkward CNH website.

Given the milky hydraulic fluid am I ok just to drain, change filters, refill with hytran or should I do some sort of flush?  I understand the hydrostatic transmissions are a little sensitive and probably don't want to be run with any kind of flushing/solvent.

Air filter CNH part number is 537334R1. List price is $44.75

One thing that will help on the initial transmission fluid change is to disconnect the cooler hoses and blow the old crappy stuff out. The cooler is fairly large and holds quite a bit of oil. 

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2 hours ago, dale560 said:

I just suggested 85 dollars of flushing oil. The black bucket oil will work to move water and debris around and then throw it away and fill it with the 150 hytran fill. Or fill with hytran run it dump it fill again

Yes ,I agree.I also flushed gear driven tractors with half hyd oil and half diesel fuel .I never did that in a Hydro though, I don't know if that's advisable or not. In a gear drive it was just starting it,and driving back  and forth a bit to stir up the crap and drain it.I don't know enough about the hydro drive to advise it or not. I dont know of if that fine dirt would score spools,plates.Maybe some one else will have thoughts on that.

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1 hour ago, Maynard said:

Letting a hydro roll in gear with the engine off will destroy the drive motor in just a few feet.  The "always rule" must be, set the brake, shift range lever to neutral, shut off engine.

Air filter CNH part number is 537334R1. List price is $44.75

One thing that will help on the initial transmission fluid change is to disconnect the cooler hoses and blow the old crappy stuff out. The cooler is fairly large and holds quite a bit of oil. 

Thank you!

Out of curiosity what is the mechanism for the damage to the transmission in that case?

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4 hours ago, dale560 said:

I just suggested 85 dollars of flushing oil. The black bucket oil will work to move water and debris around and then throw it away and fill it with the 150 hytran fill. Or fill with hytran run it dump it fill again

I too contemplated using a cheaper hydraulic fluid for the initial refill and filter change as a flush before refilling with HyTran.  And I might still do that. But even the cheap hydraulic fluids aren't cheap.  I haven't called the local CaseIH/New Holland dealer to price it out yet but the service manual says my tractor takes 20 gallons of HyTran, and I have been told that the total volume should be even higher than that especially when operating on slopes.  So that is a decent amount of money.  Probably false economy to try and save pennies there, but I'm allowed to complain about it a little bit at least.

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