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What is this called and where could i get them


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working on the cultipacker - cast iron stuff - bearings wood - wore thru cast frame so cut/removed them  - cobbled new end frames with pillow bearings - old shaft ends worn off not useable - didnt realize these things were cast and when putting on overtightened and heard pop - total rookie move 

20210602_204719.jpg

20210602_204713.jpg

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1 hour ago, searcyfarms said:

working on the cultipacker - cast iron stuff - bearings wood - wore thru cast frame so cut/removed them  - cobbled new end frames with pillow bearings - old shaft ends worn off not useable - didnt realize these things were cast and when putting on overtightened and heard pop - total rookie move 

20210602_204719.jpg

20210602_204713.jpg

Searcy-------I don't see the crack; but you should be able to braze the cast Clamp OK.

Clean real well------Vee out crack.  Braze with fluxcoated rod.

 

Good luck--

 

DD

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8 hours ago, Delta Dirt said:

Searcy-------I don't see the crack; but you should be able to braze the cast Clamp OK.

Clean real well------Vee out crack.  Braze with fluxcoated rod.

 

Good luck--

 

DD

that is the one for the other side - i do have some flux rod and a torch might try it just for the practice if nothing else lol

lord knows i need a lot of it 

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From McMaster-Carr:

Zinc-Plated 1215 Carbon Steel

1 3/4" 2 3/4" 11/16" Socket Head Screw 2 2380K39 23.24

 

And if you want it to go fast, they have chrome plated!

Clamping Two-Piece Shaft Collars

These metal collars are stronger than plastic shaft collars. The two-piece design allows you to install them anywhere on a shaft without removing components or having access to the ends of the shaft. Collars clamp evenly around the shaft to create a strong, mar-free hold. Tighten the clamping screws to secure.

Black-oxide steel collars have some corrosion resistance. Zinc-plated steel and chrome-plated steel collars have moderate corrosion resistance with a bright finish. Aluminum collars are lightweight and have good corrosion resistance. In addition to the benefits of aluminum, anodized aluminum collars have extra corrosion resistance, and you can tighten the clamping screw with more torque, so they stay in place. 303 stainless steel collars have excellent corrosion resistance. 316 stainless steel collars have excellent corrosion and chemical resistance.

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1 minute ago, 1965Dennis said:

From McMaster-Carr:

Zinc-Plated 1215 Carbon Steel

1 3/4" 2 3/4" 11/16" Socket Head Screw 2 2380K39 23.24

 

And if you want it to go fast, they have chrome plated!

Clamping Two-Piece Shaft Collars

These metal collars are stronger than plastic shaft collars. The two-piece design allows you to install them anywhere on a shaft without removing components or having access to the ends of the shaft. Collars clamp evenly around the shaft to create a strong, mar-free hold. Tighten the clamping screws to secure.

Black-oxide steel collars have some corrosion resistance. Zinc-plated steel and chrome-plated steel collars have moderate corrosion resistance with a bright finish. Aluminum collars are lightweight and have good corrosion resistance. In addition to the benefits of aluminum, anodized aluminum collars have extra corrosion resistance, and you can tighten the clamping screw with more torque, so they stay in place. 303 stainless steel collars have excellent corrosion resistance. 316 stainless steel collars have excellent corrosion and chemical resistance.

thanks dennis, yea i saw those last night and i think they might work but would require drilling a hole due to the force/side pressure placed while turning - the old blocks are quite substantial vs these types - maybe im just used to over engineering, i think most of these types are just end caps for like motor shafts not a rotary drag type appliance like a cultipacker from the looks of things. maybe a couple sandwiched together would be better - still on the fence

 

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How wide is the broken one? Looks like room for at least 2 or maybe 3 and still cheaper than $75.

Maybe put a piece of iron black or galvanized pipe over the axle with a flange on each end to support a pair of split collars would put some of the side loading on the pillow block bearing on the upper right corner of your picture. 

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Posted (edited)

I like the black pipe sleeve idea. If you're trying to get by with quick and cheap I would try a muffler clamp, maybe two. They are only a couple dollars each, so if they fail you aren't out much. Probably best to put a washer between the clamp and the packer wheel so it doesn't eat into the softer cast.

Edited by gearheadmb
Added a thought
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19 minutes ago, gearheadmb said:

I like the black pipe sleeve idea. If you're trying to get by with quick and cheap I would try a muffler clamp, maybe two. They are only a couple dollars each, so if they fail you aren't out much. Probably best to put a washer between the clamp and the packer wheel so it doesn't eat into the softer cast.

i was thinking about a muffler clamp - might do the trick also, like the black pipe thing, easy to drill and thread or weld nut on 

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14 hours ago, searcyfarms said:

wow thanks, they are proud of those i guess not a big market

 

Sure are , but it should give you a starting point for research but as others have said should be able to make alternative repairs

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They do make rod for welding cast iron.

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