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Blown hydraulic line... advice needed.


ccarmichael
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Hi all!  So, I blew out a hydraulic line on my 1501 loader.  It’s the one that goes to the top of the tip cylinder.

The cylinder end of the hose came off no problem, but the arm end doesn’t feel like it’s going to move at all.  I am SUPER worried about breaking the hard line on the arm or the connector there. 
Any advice? 
 

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If that doesn't work, use an acetylene torch with not the torch tip, but the brazing/welding tip and carefully heat the nut on the steel line, but not the steel line itself. Should come loose when heated.

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What they said. But remember if it twists off it may be rusted under the nut and about ready to fail anyway. I can't tell  for sure but it looks like that nut is supposed to rotate? By all means try to save it but just a thought on the rust. If that nut does rotate and will slide up once you have it apart it might be wise to inspect that line under the nut for pitting.

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40 minutes ago, iowaboy1965 said:

But remember if it twists off it may be rusted under the nut and about ready to fail anyway.

That fitting and line is looking a bit rough. May last a long time, may not.

Try the suggestions but don't be afraid to replace the hard line. 

I salvaged an old loader one time by replacing all six hard lines from back of loader to bucket. Bought lengths of pipe, then cut, bent and threaded them myself. 

Not that hard or expensive to do and then you have new tubing!

If you do replace, make sure it is rated over the pressures you will see. 

 

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Take an air hammer with the flat bit and use it on a flat of the nut while holding the hose side with a wrench. I've done this many time on stuck or hard to get at hydraulic fittings. Works really well.

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I would heat it here............Do it alot on hydraulic applications, just use a tip and control where the heat is going, you want to heat up the threaded coupler, not the hard line.  

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What they said. (I’d have grabbed the torch pretty quick)And l will add that if you need to get a better bite onto that hose end, that you can cut the  hose off then use a deep wall socket instead of a wrench.  

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In addition to the above mentioned suggestions, make sure you use the proper two wrench/one hand technique on the fittings.  This help prevent any significant amount of torque being applied to the steel line.  I will post a picture of this later as I cannot find an example of this online.

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Here. It may be necessary to wrap one hand around the other to increase the force on the wrenches. But done right, this is about the best way to maximize force on the fitting but minimize risk of damage to the steel line, and also your fingers vs holding a wrench with each hand. 

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heat and two of these on wrenches like gearclash has up there and you'll either break it lose ot twist it off both ive done and likes said if it does break then more than likely it was headed out the door anyway you just helped speed the process, and if you like to party a crows foot wrench on a impact will get if off or get you famous if you video it, I've done it in a pinch on larger lines

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i had to use 15" crescent and 3 foot cheater/pipe and pipe wrench last week on a line on old krause i bought to get new pioneers on my hoses - i tried about everything but torch since i didnt want to damage hose hard to hold them when not in a vice - i was worn slick from wrestling them by the time i got done- think they been on there for 40 yrs prob original hoses/fittings from when sold 

 

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From the looks of it that hard line could use some attention as well, like replacement. I concur with what others said, smack it on a couple different flats against two hammers but preferable just heat one flat with acetylene torch, propane won't get it hot enough quick enough and as it cools soak with PBS or other. As is common, most flares are overtightened. Flare fittings do not have to be that tight, unlike pipe fittings, but they do have to be clean and no galls, pits, or rough surface on their mating faces. Tighter is not always better, it can be your worst enemy....

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Ok, gents... I managed to get the damn hose off the hard line without breaking anything... but now I'm a little stumped on what fittings I need.  I bought a 1/2" hose with male pipe threads (because that's all they had), but I now think that maybe 3/8" is the way to go, and I think I need some JIC adapters.  That sound about right? 

 

 

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If you take it to a machinery dealer or hydraulic shop you can get a hose made with the correct ends on it. It doesn't even have to be a CaseIH dealer. Any full service machinery dealer can make the hose you need. We often drive right on by the CaseIH dealer and go straight to the Massey dealer because they have a better selection of hose ends.

Farm stores never seem to have the adapter you need. Never from A to B. Always A to C and C to D and D to B.

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Take that hose back to the farm/fleet store and then take your OEM hose to a local tractor dealer/NAPA/hydraulic shop and get one made with the correct ends. Should cost less in the long run and be a heck of a lot easier.

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What they said. 

You could try the tractor supply type store that you went to...(if they are open tomorrow and a real shop might be closed through Monday) .but you  have to take that old hose with you.    That’s key when dealing with hoses, especially when your unfamiliar with fittings. 

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12 hours ago, Matt Kirsch said:

If you take it to a machinery dealer or hydraulic shop you can get a hose made with the correct ends on it. It doesn't even have to be a CaseIH dealer. Any full service machinery dealer can make the hose you need. We often drive right on by the CaseIH dealer and go straight to the Massey dealer because they have a better selection of hose ends.

Farm stores never seem to have the adapter you need. Never from A to B. Always A to C and C to D and D to B.

Played that game just like Matt. Now I do the same thing as him, take the junk hose to the farm store and get an exact copy. Works right the first time!

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Arent those JIC threads? Had a neighbor who worked for me and he said JIC hose ends were John Deere, International and Case. 

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11 minutes ago, hagan said:

Arent those JIC threads? Had a neighbor who worked for me and he said JIC hose ends were John Deere, International and Case. 

Kinda like FORD stands for Fix Or Repair Daily. LOL

JIC is Joint Industry Council, for the record :) 

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