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OK power take off not going into gear?


beachbumtroy
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hey guys 1953 farmall cub just got it running today bought it a few weeks ago and changed allllllll the fluids,greased everything rebuilt carb,new plugs and points and cap, got it running good and all worked today even the hydraulics worked but it won`t go into gear for the belt pulley,i put the idle all the way down, put it in neutral pushed in the clutch and it just grinds the whole time trying to put in, then i shut off motor  and it seems like it locks in but when i start it and let the clutch out slowly it just pops out, so i just got the owners manual, and tonite i will order a rebuild manual but i have no clue which one and hopefully with u guys suggestions i`ll get te right one? and i kno ABSOLUTELY nothing about trans or how to fix this "hence" why im here hope u guys can help me pick the right manual and walk me thru this repair.....lokkforward to ur help and ideas thnx bb p.s for those of u who dont kno me i just bought this one and a 1948 cub also twins lol, havent started on the 48 yet till i get this one done

12 volt farmall.jpg

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It is a direct coupling to the top shaft of the transmission via simple sliding collar.

Does the tractor grind a lot going into normal driving gears?  If so, it could be the clutch pilot bearing or throw out bearing dragging on the input shaft, keeping it from stopping.

If the engine is off, with the clutch pushed in, it should slide easily into gear and then latch there.

It is possible someone tried to treat it like a "live" PTO and ground it so much the shaft or collar is stripped/damaged.  Also possible that the linkage is bent, worn,, or partially sheared, keeping the collar from traveling forward all the way. 

Drain transmission and pull rear PTO housing, PTO shaft should slide out of linkage and you can see what's up with it.

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hey mr.plow and snoshoe, thnx for replies and yes regular gears kind of grumble going into gear but not a loud or lot of grinding, i kno there are alot of possibilities

but i will start with draining the trans and pull the rear pto housing first, i found these 2 videos this is what im scared to death of lol.....but if u can all ideas will be appreciated to avoid pulling tractor in half :(

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Ar64utCjC4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YbFC-IYLfhg

 

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15 hours ago, snoshoe said:

Also thought the part with notches to lock lever. Was mounted on slotted holes to adjust engagement.

start with getting the clutch /throw out working

then the external adj at lever, there is nothing you can see by draining oil or opening,

it is a bit involved to dis/re-assemble   it works or not and would require parts

refer to 1-2 above until ALL other issues worked out

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I think your problem is wear at the splines at the end of the mainshaft where the collar locks the mainshaft to the PTO shaft.

I had this problem on a Cub 5/6 years ago, PTO would not stay engaged. Replaced the mainshaft and the shifter fork. Yes, you have to split the tractor.

Here is a link to the CUB forum, very helpful -

http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=1

Attached are pictures of the parts involved

I took a quick look for new mainshafts but could not find a supplier - I don't remember where I got the one I used.

CubShaft.jpg

CubPTOShift.png

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i know this isnt the proper way but I used to work for some farmers with various anomalies with their tractors, one i remember that the pto was STUCK running all the time and one that would jump out of gear ALL the time so he had wired the lever in the on position, im thinking one was a Ford and cant remember teh other one, all I can say is it was a good lesson in having to turn off the tractors when hooking up a pto shaft - i worked for these guys for several years and they worked fine but ran constantly - so many guys with broken stuff on their tractors that never got fixed, they just kept using them and probably got sold or sent to the scrap yards that way

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ok to answer mmi i bought the below manual this am and plan to start at easiest point first for the fix lol:) thnx and for searcyfarms i would have loved to do it that way vs. tearing this thing apart believe me, but mine wont lock in with engine runningand when u shut engine off and lock it in, it just jumps out when u start it and let the clutch out and there isnt no holding it in.............so im stuck with fixing i hate to say lol cause im a decent backyard mechanic but never have attempted any car or tractor tranny before scares me to death, but im hoping with the manual and u guys help ull walk methru it so stay tuned and thnx thus far and by the way the manual in case u cant see it is GSS-1411

manual.jpg

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I found the same thing on my 1957 cub as the second vido. someone had put the front bearing retainer in backwards alo wing  the front shaft to slide ahead.

Be sure you check the pin on the shifter for wear. HAMILTOH BOBS or TM TRACTOR PARTS shoud have all the pa rts you will need. they are listed on the 

Farmall cub web site.    FARMALL JACK

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I understand your apprehension about splitting a tractor, first one I did was a Farmall 450, way bigger than  Cub and my shop/garage is small. Since the I’ve done a couple of C’s and 2 different Cubs.

This is what they look like split.

088E7CE4-1927-406E-A22C-8796053A7552.jpeg

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hey farmall and dave, thnx for the info and yes im scared still going to do easiest 1st then  go from there,my buddy has already offered me his engine hoist and chain

hoist,im going to get the 6 volt cub going first it was just like this one needs all new fluids battery iggy set up so hopefully it will cut when done then i can tackle the 12 volt and pto, keep the info coming and quit trying to scare me dave :) and thnx for the leads jack.

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Last tractor split  I did was under a Hedge apple tree 25 Miles from our garage.  Worst problem was wet spring. I ended up with 2 ea 4 X 8 sheets of 3/4" so the cheery picker would move in the mud. Sat under a tarp for several months.  All or the engine work was done in the garage.  True shade tree operation. Little Nissan D21 pickup saved the day multiple times.

Where there is a will there is a way!

Good luck with the Cub,  good little machine if you use it within its' capabilities.

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ALWAYS start with the simple first and eliminate it as cause. Never had one of these apart. But they are a simple, not that big a tractor. Take your time and ask lots of questions.  You will get it if you have the determination and basic mechanical ability.

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thnx oleman and iowaboy appreciate it i will take my  just finished my trike stereo today put the 12 volt outside will start on 6 volt this wknd so many projects just tsking my time but thnx for info and will take it one step at a time :) u can see theres hardly any difference in the 12 volt and 6 volt which is a 198 and the 12 olts a 1953

trike9.jpg

12 volt farmall.jpg

1948 cub.jpg

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On 5/18/2021 at 4:54 PM, Dave Downs said:

I understand your apprehension about splitting a tractor, first one I did was a Farmall 450, way bigger than  Cub and my shop/garage is small. Since the I’ve done a couple of C’s and 2 different Cubs.

This is what they look like split.

088E7CE4-1927-406E-A22C-8796053A7552.jpeg

Who's 450 if I may ask? If I would have been smart enough I should have bought the one at your neighbors sale in the fall of '89 

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@bitty
It was mine, I bought it from a guy named Dan that worked in the parts department at Histand’s. Sold it at Alvin Detweiler’s auction - I wanted to put an $1800 reserve on it but Zettlemoyer said that was too high and suggested $1600, gavel came down at $2800!

Wide front, fast hitch, no T/A, LPTO

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5 minutes ago, Dave Downs said:

@bitty
It was mine, I bought it from a guy named Dan that worked in the parts department at Histand’s. Sold it at Alvin Detweiler’s auction - I wanted to put an $1800 reserve on it but Zettlemoyer said that was too high and suggested $1600, gavel came down at $2800!

Wide front, fast hitch, no T/A, LPTO

I remember you saying about that before . Wasn't ours for sure

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