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Working on my H70 brakes.I feel kinda dumb and glad J-Mech isn't on here to torch me about my  questions. I rebuilt motors,spilt tractors for clutch,trans work and messed in hyds and pto rebuilds.But I never had to work on brakes much,last one was a 560 25 plus years ago. I just don't have much working experience on brakes.

This tractor is a daily work horse on my farm the past 15 years with a loader on it. I was doing some hyd line work on it and had platform off and thought now is the time. I figured the discs would be shot after all this time but weren't. I had the adjustment nut cranked down some on both sides but not all the way.The brakes will stop me but just have to keep pushing farther. 

1.How much wear is acceptable on the discs, the grooves are deep and not near wore I think, how thick are they new.One reason I don't want to replace these unless necessary because they are OEM and not some unknown Chinese junk.

2 the shims on the outside of the pads on the inside the of the drums  there are probably 8 or so never counted,what are they for ,do  I add or remove them.What is their role.If a good cleaning will suffice and putting it back together I would be all over that.

3 I have repair manuals for my 66,86,and Case tractors but nothing for something this small or age group. 

Thanks in advance 

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I don't know what the shims do, however glazed brakes can cause them to not grab well. I would assume the shims are to take up slack that cannot be adjusted out. The disks are usually pretty thick, like you, it has been a while since I tore one of them down. Does it have the rollers in it? Make sure they're not gummed up with junk and not spreading the plates apart properly.

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I will say DO NOT use A & I discs. They grab right out of the package. I use Hy-Capacity only and they work as good as the OEM's. Glazing is the main killer to those disc's. Part of that is because very few people open the ends of the grooves. Those grooves are to let the dust fall to the bottom. Non of them including CaseIH discs are open when new in the last 20 plus years. I don't know why. Dust fills up the grooves and glazes the disc. I use a rasp bit on a die grinder. Just go around and open the grooves on both ends. The shims are to remove as things wear. You may need to put some back in with new discs. 

Where is J-mech? 

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If you have good disks and can shim within specifications it can help to sand blast the pads and the surface they rub against if they have any rust . I have seen rust glaze the pads on some tractors

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And for the record there is no such thing as a stupid question

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The shims between cover and drum are your brake adjusters. The nuts on the pull rods are to even pedals. Take out all the shims you can without making brakes drag. After assembling brakes. Put nut on pull rod and thread on untill all play has been removed from linkage. Iirc pedal should move about 2-2 1/2". Less than that. Put a shim back in. Much more. Take another out. Once that is established. Use the nut to bring the lower pedal up to match the other one.

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Jack up one side, then take shims out till it locks the wheel up when rocking it by hand. Then add a shim. Just make sure it doesn't drag.

Every one above hit all the main points.

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Okay, so since I still have plenty of dust grooves on the old discs can I just clean them,reinstall and use the shims to adjust them.That would be wonderful. I just don't want to gouge the the drums but I see they must be adhered together with epoxy not rivets. 

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One thing that is very important on those tractors brakes for smooth operation is to completely disassemble the reactor plates  check for cracks or clean all the rust or dirt off the separator balls and the plates too, install ALL new springs make sure linkage doesn't bind , I also use  never sieze on the balls and in the ramps to make operation even smoother , I've did several brakes on those tractors  adjust brake shim with wheel jacked up and remove or add shims til there's no drag there's several thickness's of shims I like to keep some clearance for heat expansion 

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5 hours ago, Jacka said:

Okay, so since I still have plenty of dust grooves on the old discs can I just clean them,reinstall and use the shims to adjust them.That would be wonderful. I just don't want to gouge the the drums but I see they must be adhered together with epoxy not rivets. 

You can wear them down untill the hubs touch. Yes clean out actuators.

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1 hour ago, cornerpost said:

Chances are being a Hydro lot of stops involved the hydro lever and not the brakes!

Yes hills are the main use of brakes. I bet they are original on it. I got a 1026 and use the brakes less on it then this one because it doesn't have a loader.

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I only  time I use the brakes on my hydro is for turning, the hydro has positive braking action in itself when you pull the lever back it will throw you out of the seat if your not careful 

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Just a update got the old H70 back together after having the platform,seat and sheet metal to get behind the steering column to replace hyd lines and fix some leaks. But the brakes work perfectly just like new or what it would be new I would guess. I never put any new parts on just cleaned discs up,rust,oil,dirt.I PB Blaster springs and rollers.I removed some shims from each side.I actually removed  about half on  each side and had to add some back in. I believe these are original brakes as am second owner.Just blows my mind they could last so many years.

I just wanted to update those that helped me and want to thank you all again. 

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