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I happen to come across a deal I couldn’t refuse the other day.. guy wanted $2,000 for a 88 S1600 with dt466 mechanical injection, has the spicer double duty transmission, new tires all the way around, batteries, and all lights work. Problem is that it has quite a bit of blowby. So much that I drove it 20 miles home and before I left his house the oil dipstick was on the full mark and when I got home it was just below the add mark.

60lbs of oil pressure when driving 2200-2500 rpms at 50mph lol

30psi oil when idling 

will be pulling intake off first 

what are your thoughts?? 


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I would think a gallon of oil in  20 miles could be seen coming out somewhere. If there’s not a plume of oil smoke behind you, and the blow-by is as bad as you say , see if there’s oil dripping from the draft tube. If you’re taking the intake off, look for drops or puddles of lube oil , indicating oil loss through the turbo. How about the rear main seal also? Just some thoughts.

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It’s dripping from the blowby tube at a rate of 1 drip every second once to operating temp.

No oil loss from turbo

idk if or how long it sat

i believe it’s just one hole that Has blowby because at idle it sounds like one cylinder is missing.

Yes it smokes blue when initial start up after it gets warm it quits smoking or atleast it is just a little pig of blue smoke when you change gear on the road.

oil is coming out the blowby tube pretty good because the brake chambers for the rear diff were soaked with I made it home. 
I’m thinking of plumbing a tube from the existing blowby tube in the valve cover and running it to the dipstick tube with a vent in it so pressure can escape.

what are your thoughts?

I will be doing a inframe very very soon, just gonna fab a tube for the time being and see how it works

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Crank the engine with the stop cable pulled out, and listen to it turn over. If the cylinder is completely gone you’ll hear a “free” spot at regular intervals as that cylinder goes by. I don’t know what your situation is, time or money, but rather than trying to run it like that, I would like to point out that you can have that head and pan off and back on by noon the next day, and you can buy just 1 sleeve/piston group. Then you can run the thing the rest of the summer and do a complete in-frame when you can take your time at it.  

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@Binderoid time is very valuable haha. I usually get one day a week to work on my personal projects. 
like today I went and picked up a double frame and rear axle assembly for my 1988 1954 because my double frame is rust jacking... it was an fertilizer truck years back and no one didn’t think to look until bed was off.

I plan to pull head and pan first, and do I frame. We run 2 pans with 466s, a roll back, 20ft dump truck, and have a short log truck with a 466. We have at least 1 inframe kit for 466 at the shop in parts room. after that I’m going to pull both outside frame rails and sand blast everything, everywhere. I’ve got some rust stopper then I’ll prime and repaint and put new frame rails on. 

Also have a scissor dump bed I will be putting on after that, fab hitch plate and plumb for supply lines for trailer air brakes.. 

with that being said it will probably be 10 years before I finish this project 😂😂 


oh yeah almost forgot.. I’m Goni go to see if I can get a better highway speed and lower my rpms with a different 3rd member. I have a Rockwell 2spd, gonna try to fit a Rockwell 1spd


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You CAN get that rust out from between the frame rails, but if you want pretty, best go on with your original plan. I fixed many a blooming frame with a air hammer that takes a 3/4” shank. That rust comes out of there like sand. But the bulges are stretched out and takes some effort to make it lay flat again, sometimes to the point of slicing the bulge lengthwise with a torch or cut-off saw, so it can compress and go back together. Then you jus weld it back up. But I get you. A straight unadulterated frame is a beautiful thing.

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