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1980 Dresser TD-20E Dozer


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On 11/10/2021 at 5:12 AM, walker450 said:

Pulled valve covers, findings:

-Moisture present. Condensation droplets. Gray slimy sludge build up, especially on bottom side of valve covers.

-#6 cylinder intake rocker arm off, slid to the side, all pieces appear to be intact and not broken, push rod is straight

Do you all know what would cause a rocker arm to come off? I didn't think tolerances would even allow this. The adjustment bolt/nut was tight and appeared to be at the same position as the other intake valves. I don't believe I can even put this back together without pulling the entire rocker shaft, right??

There is a slight oily residue on top of the antifreeze coolant that's visible when you open the cap.

I have all the injectors pulled.... not sure if I should invest the money in having them checked, hopefully someone can shed light on the rocker arm issue first. I appreciate all of the advice on this. If it requires pulling the head I'm going to have to really think hard before moving further on this project.

Thanks again.

 

Pictures attached:  gray sludge,  rocker arm slid over, coolant, valve cover after sitting a few hours, the condensation beaded up...

 

 

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I would venture to say it is running too cold .That would give the whitish smoke in the video.Also could mean a headgasket,but if thats the case it would run hot ,which it doesnt appear to be doing . Obviously ,as suggested,a weak injector or two wont help the cause either.I always check and change thermostats on a new aquisition.Sort of gives you a benchmark in the elimination process.If it has been run cold for a long time prior to you getting it ,there could be some wear indicated by a certain amount of blowby.Those things make lots of power with the tap open ,to the extent on the fairly new one I was running in 1985,it would spin the tracks when I was push  loading scrapers: TS18 Terexs and Cat 627,s ,so you had to back off the throttle some what.It was great on blading though and ripping was fine too. It was quick ,and would out perform  the Cat 7G on loading with the planetary steering, on the cuts that curved around corners on the roads we were building.Cat guys may not agree ,but I ran both of them on the same job. In defence of the Cats though,they were both similiar weight,about 54000,and on straight push not much difference.

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I pulled the pushrod from #8 intake and it is straight as can be, no unusual wear, so just like #6 intake the issue must be wear on the cam or tappet. I was able to get another turn on the adjustment bolt and am now at the proper .013 lash..... I have to borrow or buy a dial indicator to get a reading on how much lift there is.

I recorded a video of the valvetrain operating, not sure that it is useful for anything but here it is, you can see that all valves operate, #2 is closest and #8 is farthest away. The far outside is exhaust so the second one from the left is #8 intake and the 3rd from left is #6 intake. 

 

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On 11/25/2021 at 6:02 PM, hardtail said:

FP Smith maybe would need lifters also and starting to go deeper within...could you put a dial indicator on a good valve and on the bad to check wear,  once the wear has started it will chew through that lobe and circulate the shrapnel 

Tough call might be able to do your work but then selling a known problem to a neighbor 

So it sounds like that by me adjusting the lash it is going to compound the problem even more and just wear it down more?? So only the "surface" of the cam is hard faced?? This is bad news thank you for bringing that up I did not consider that.

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There maybe another option that should be cheaper than a $2500 camshaft, there is a company up here that repairs crankshaft journals etc, actually the used to repair cracked cylinder heads also IIRC 

Search Weldangrind Edmonton Ab, look at the stuff they do on their website, gotta think repairing what you have would be cheaper unless more lobes are on the verge of failure, maybe someone else closer to you is doing the same? Still means going into the bowels, did you try contact R Pope? Repair vs replace I think he is in Saskatchewan so that route probably has some challenges also, I think that motor is in a 4wd tractor so pump and governor settings would be different 

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There is also a company called Barry Cam service in Lester Prairie Minnesota that repairs cams. They fixed a cam for us from a 446 truck engine 10 years ago

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks again for the advice guys.

 

I did not contact R Pope. Thanks for the info regarding reworking existing cam.

Got it back together and it is running smooth so far, in the shop anyways. 

Will make another post after pushing dirt.

Start up vid, revved it up slightly s few times, it doesn't smoke at idle now:

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ran it a few hours and it was running strong but then started losing power. Pulled the valve cover and there is play in #6 and #8 intake again, just like you guys said would happen. It ran really good so I feel like if I or someone else addresses this problem they'll have a good machine. 

I'll check with some local machine shops and see if they're up to rebuilding the cam and I'll see if I can find lifters so I can pass that info on to whoever may be interested in buying it.

At this point I'm not interested in doing the work myself that's way deeper than I want to go so I'm also listing the machine for sale and at least they'll know what they're getting into. 

Obviously I'm going to stop operating it and it's next journey will be onto a trailer. 

I'll send R Pope a message as well.

Thanks again for everyone's input and advice on this adventure.

Merry Christmas!!

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One more hail Mary option, there was a shop in Ponoka Alberta that used to repower the 4786 4wd tractors with a Cummins, he had a lot of V800 parts, not sure if he is still going or if he scrapped a bunch but he would have a goldmine, obviously most of those engines probably had some problems for the owner to consider being it done

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18 hours ago, walker450 said:

At this point I'm not interested in doing the work myself

 

18 hours ago, walker450 said:

Obviously I'm going to stop operating it and it's next journey will be onto a trailer. 

Where are you located?

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Update:

I have sold the machine. A man brought a mechanic and I walked them through every detail that I knew, etc. He agreed to buy and they will pull cam and repair as needed and it will see more life.

I just can't commit to it with a new baby at home and it is too good of a machine to sit. 

 

Thanks for all of the advice along the way.

I have a CAT D5 (105HP) rental that gets delivered tomorrow that I will finish the pond with.

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4 hours ago, walker450 said:

Update:

I have sold the machine. A man brought a mechanic and I walked them through every detail that I knew, etc. He agreed to buy and they will pull cam and repair as needed and it will see more life.

I just can't commit to it with a new baby at home and it is too good of a machine to sit. 

 

Thanks for all of the advice along the way.

I have a CAT D5 (105HP) rental that gets delivered tomorrow that I will finish the pond with.

Good luck with the baby and your pond! It's good to hear that some one will get some use out of the 20E. It was too good to scrap.

DWF

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Sorry it didn't work out better for you but I feel you made a wise choice, those engines didn't give the best service in ag applications cause of the governed speed and dusty conditions but due to age, parts and cost the construction line isn't fairing any better it seems these days, I like the size of the machine but the 15s and 25s seemed better, none spring chickens now

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Happy New Year!!

I operated the rental for a few hours yesterday morning. It rained a half inch over night so will be shut down for a few days. This was the largest machine available at this time.

My friend is coming over this week to help as well, I will post some pictures and end this thread as a pond build thread :)

 

 

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How does it compare? Even a crippled 20 must move more material and have more grunt than that? Probably liking the cab portion...

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On 1/1/2022 at 11:50 AM, hardtail said:

How does it compare? Even a crippled 20 must move more material and have more grunt than that? Probably liking the cab portion...

I'm estimating the 20E pushes 3x as much dirt per pass. However, I am probably achieving the same amount of work with the rental vs the injured 20E with regards to moving dirt. Pushing over trees wouldn't even be a comparison.

This rental is very comfortable to run and is very speedy in all aspects. I am amazed at the technology they have standard. The blade will move itself depending on what settings you have enabled. This is all done without laser or GPS, it is an inertial sensor on the blade that sense the position and will hold the position you want. I'm just using it on the last finish passes and I, being rather inexperienced, can really move along in a hurry.

 

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I've run about everything over the years from cable blades to fly by wire and IMO; new cabs are nice but high maintenance, Deere's hydrostat is not made for pushing, Cat's seem underpowered and controls are carpel tunnel waiting to happen, Case....I'll laugh a little and move on, Komatsu are a bit hard to work on. IH/Dresser were years ahead of everyone else to bad you can't get parts, Dresta has quality control issues. Best tractor to me, TD15E, good power, low fuel consumption and love the 2 finger steer. I do have one dozer on my bucket list, a 575.     

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