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1980 Dresser TD-20E Dozer


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Yes, WOT all the time, only decelerate to shift. I understand it not sounding like it's screaming, recordings never seem to duplicate the actual. Do you have any exhaust leaks?  

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Yeah, should be easy to spot, the reason I ask it's a common problem and you don't get enough exhaust gas to spool the turbo.  

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On 10/5/2021 at 7:10 AM, pede said:

Yeah, should be easy to spot, the reason I ask it's a common problem and you don't get enough exhaust gas to spool the turbo.  

You were correct sir, there is an exhaust leak. It seems to be more noticeable when the engine is hot. The metal ring between the turbo and exhaust riser is rotating with the vibration. Here is a video:

https://youtu.be/IfR5ceM8lyk

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2 hours ago, walker450 said:

You were correct sir, there is an exhaust leak. It seems to be more noticeable when the engine is hot. The metal ring between the turbo and exhaust riser is rotating with the vibration. Here is a video:

https://youtu.be/IfR5ceM8lyk

Well, nevermind, this leak shouldn't matter, right?? It is on the exhaust side of the turbo, so turbo is still getting all of the exhaust gas flow.

 

I just looked again and the flange from the exhaust manifolds to the turbo are not leaking. 

 

Also, here is another video, this is at WOT, it is real windy so sound quality is low.

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got it in the ship now, pulled some accessories panels, have oil leaking from the right side manifold connections and also from around the turbo connection. Turbo cold side looks good and does not have excessive play, spins freely, no sign of it making contact with housing. 

This could be a bad head gasket or valve guide, right? Allowing oil to leak into the combustion chamber and then into the exhaust?

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Turbo has oil supply and drain, they way it looks and runs I'd pull it.  

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injectors would be my next stop. Feel the lines for the pulse. Pull the one with a week pulse and clean. That might not be all it needs but I think it does need that.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Pulled valve covers, findings:

-Moisture present. Condensation droplets. Gray slimy sludge build up, especially on bottom side of valve covers.

-#6 cylinder intake rocker arm off, slid to the side, all pieces appear to be intact and not broken, push rod is straight

Do you all know what would cause a rocker arm to come off? I didn't think tolerances would even allow this. The adjustment bolt/nut was tight and appeared to be at the same position as the other intake valves. I don't believe I can even put this back together without pulling the entire rocker shaft, right??

There is a slight oily residue on top of the antifreeze coolant that's visible when you open the cap.

I have all the injectors pulled.... not sure if I should invest the money in having them checked, hopefully someone can shed light on the rocker arm issue first. I appreciate all of the advice on this. If it requires pulling the head I'm going to have to really think hard before moving further on this project.

Thanks again.

 

Pictures attached:  gray sludge,  rocker arm slid over, coolant, valve cover after sitting a few hours, the condensation beaded up...

 

 

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Can you roll the engine ahead to get cam lobe on base circle, watch opposite valve operation, at this point you should be ok to compress spring to get pushrod back on rocker and check lash, engine looks like it's been running cold

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You should be wet stacking that hole with the valve problem, can you get a borescope down the injector hole to check it now they're out? Fuel will be washing down that hole which maybe your oily residue your seeing on the exhaust joints.

This ain't the right fix and may get flamed but if you don't see any catastrophic damage, I would put valve train back together and reassemble and see if it runs better, it should given you have 12.5% of your engine not functioning properly right now, you likely bought this for a farm dozer, have a young family and don't want to start throwing tons of money at this

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3 minutes ago, hardtail said:

This ain't the right fix and may get flamed but if you don't see any catastrophic damage, I would put valve train back together and reassemble and see if it runs better, it should given you have 12.5% of your engine not functioning properly right now, you likely bought this for a farm dozer, have a young family and want to start throwing tons of money at this

If I were paying the bills that’s what I would do. You can always take it back apart if it needs it. If this is what you make a living with and it really needs to be right, then I’d probably take it apart. 

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I'm with Hardtail, clean it up and slap it back together. Moisture in cover appears to be just condensation but maybe crack the drain plug and look for water.  

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Thanks again everyone, I agree with what you guys are saying.

I dropped the injectors off at a diesel shop, they reported back that ALL the injectors need rebuilt, they are hunting for parts now. (this is good news to me and not a surprise)

The tappet was out of its hole and I was able to realign it with a long magnet and drop it back down on the cam.

Sooooo now the plan is:

-remove the front belly pan/skid plate (will probably involve a hot wrench, will have to elaborate on this later, short on time)

-rotate engine and measure #6 intake pushrod travel and compare to others to verify cam lobe condition

-if cam lobe is good, rotate to lowest point as mentioned above by hardtail, compress springs and reinstall rocker arm

-adjust all valves per procedure 

-install reconditioned injectors 

-clean up as much sludge as possible, reassemble, cross fingers, start pushing dirt and send you fine gentlemen a new video :)

This is a farm dozer now and correct, I don't want to sink much more money in it, my goal is to build one pond, maybe two, both on my land, clear a fence row for a neighbor, and then sell it to my friend who lives about 3 miles away, then another friend wants to buy it after he gets done with it lol

 

I only have 45 acres, I can't justify keeping it around once my jobs are done.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Adjusted the valves last night... all but 1 needed tightened.

#6 intake was the one that had the rocker arm off... I was able to get it on and adjust it back into spec, but the adjustment bolt is down approximately 3/16" lower than the others which tells me the cam or tappet is wore down. 

More bad news: #8 intake was very loose. I have the adjustment bolt all the way in and there is still about 1/8" of gap when there is supposed to be .013" .... I don't know how that rocker hadn't worked itself off yet. 

We cranked the engine and the #8 intake valves are operating but they just aren't going to open as much....

The milky substance that was in the valve covers disappeared on its own... I'm guessing g it was co densities mixed in with the oil? Very strange but I have limited experience with motors so this is new to me. 

Still waiting on injectors to come back from the shop. The good thing is that they were able to order parts. 

Right now my plan is to put injectors in and run it and see how much better it is. 

I know there are other problems but I can't justify tearing into it any more. 

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FP Smith maybe would need lifters also and starting to go deeper within...could you put a dial indicator on a good valve and on the bad to check wear,  once the wear has started it will chew through that lobe and circulate the shrapnel 

Tough call might be able to do your work but then selling a known problem to a neighbor 

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