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TD9-91 engine/clutch removal


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I did that last week but not a remodel. Just a new shower kit/install.  Priorities!

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34 minutes ago, busted knuckles said:

Had a monster garden tub to pull, add a window in the wall, change vanity ----- flooring ----plumbing move ----

Ouch on the wallett.

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Take a look at the rust on the crown and bevel gears. There's fluid/gear lube in the bottom of the case but I hope this rust cleans off and the short shaft on top is really bad.  ☹️

20210510_153518.jpg

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not sure where my reply went? someone on here mentioned Evapo-rust and I tried it. Wrap a rag soaked with it around that over night and you won't believe what it does. 

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On 5/12/2021 at 5:15 AM, td9bcf180 said:

Take a look at the rust on the crown and bevel gears. There's fluid/gear lube in the bottom of the case but I hope this rust cleans off and the short shaft on top is really bad.  ☹️

20210510_153518.jpg

The short shaft is to drive a PTO, clean it up, it should be fine.

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On 5/14/2021 at 11:57 PM, Rawleigh99 said:

Evaporust is good stuff!  I want to fill a stuck steering clutch compartment and see if it will free it up!

I have some on curbside pickup order. No stores open here at the moment.   Would you dare put this stuff into a steering clutch that is still in the machine?  I think you meant the empty casting when the clutch has been removed, right?

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going on 30 years,IIRC per the manual  must completely remove the spring and any mount or obstruction in the area.

then you almost need a load spreader to bring it out at 3-5* off ground level and it still just clears by 1/4"

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Advice taken. Thanks. Going to finally get this engine removed next week. 

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FINALLY got the engine out of machine yesterday.  Pulled head off engine and it has one bent pushrod and is seized (of course).  Going to pull the pan and take a look at bottom end tomorrow or next day.  If you see my post on the Engines board, I have a second motor but it has a cracked head.  Maybe with a good cleanup and rings, etc. I can make one out of two. 

Steering clutches are rusty but I got the fork and linkages freed up today so wondering if I really need to remove them (?)

 

20210525_130417.jpg

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No, just grouchy. I pulled the equalizer spring far enough ahead to get it out but needed a load leveller and some wedges to get it off the 2 dowels. 

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Here's the two steering clutches. I got the center connecting pins removed to free the brake bands. 

20210525_130514.jpg

20210508_134220.jpg

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I'm hoping that I get the head gasket this week and that my old girl fires up. If not, I may have extra parts for someone. Looks like you have your work cut out for you. Good Luck

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Steering clutches (both sides) are freed up and moving on their own, now. Took some manual persuasion and a pry bar but I think they will be OK. It's also cleaning up nicely but I found something new today that I never saw before: look at the 2 top corners of the main frame- there are wooden dowels in these plug holes. What would be the reason for this?

Also- waiting to find out about my engine.

Hope that head gasket works for you BN.

Cheers.

20210527_163335.jpg

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Might be holes to hook up to when they poured the casting for the main frame?  

Ya, this age thing is a hindrance.  I might have to jack up and block the back of the dozer as I can't fit between the drawbar and the frame. (could, at one time- 50 years ago)?

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Not wood, probably cork. Those holes in the front line up with the holes in the rear, and if you had a loader frame mounted, there are rods about 1 inch diameter that are threaded on both ends and hold the loader frame on. IH had a habit (good one) of providing all of the holes for the aftermarket attachments, and would cork the holes instead of leaving them open to the elements. track frames on my Drott loader had all of the holes on the side that would have had  the dozer attachment  bolted to, corked.

George

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Trucker is correct.  These holes are also used when mounting a winch.  See photo below.

Gene

IMG_2890.JPG

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