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I am going to pull the engine with clutch on my 57 TD9-91.  When I pulled the cover off the clutch it was a giant mouse nest to the top of the cover. Water got in, too. Guess that's what you get for not looking after a good ol' machine. (But it's been inside and covered for 10 years or so so I'm sure the water got in outside, before that.)

Anyhow- the clutch is a mess and the top part of the gears in the tranny have rust on them too. 3 sliding gears were rusted solid but they're free now. Gonna need some TLC.

Shifter sliders/forks were rusted but free now.  Haven't looked at the steering clutches but I can only assume they are seized solid.

My question- the clutch handle lever is unbolted and I'm ready to drive out the clutch release shaft but it's rusted bad as you can see. There are 2 bolts near the center of the shaft and I have them loose. Should I take them right out? 

You can see that I have 1 nut off the coupling and the 2nd top one shouldn't be too bad. But the motor/clutch are seized and I'm gonna have fun getting at the bottom coupling bolt.

Any suggestions?

 

TD991clutcha.jpg

Td991trannygears2.jpg

TD991trannygears.jpg

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gears look ok

shaft /remove bolts but many sessions of soak soak ,soak mild heat twist punch both ways.

IIRC been 30 years...doesnt everything forward of the fork go out the front as one?

then alot more room to work on the shaft

AND ??? the spring pack needs removed to get the engine forward?

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I think you're right- everything forward of the fork will come out as one.  If you pop the cap on the equalizer spring and block the machine the right way, I think it gets the engine forward enough to pull it out. Been 50 years since I seen it done and I was 12 then and didn't pay attention!

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TD9, take the two bolts out of the clutch release fork, you may have to put some heat on the fork to free the rust, there are two woodruff keys in the shaft that hold the fork from twisting, also a woodruff key on the shaft keeping the hand lever from twisting. You will need to remove the two keys from the shaft so you can slide the shaft out of the case. The gears look ok as mmi says, that rust will clean up fast when using the tractor. 

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Thanks Louie.  The engine and clutch come out as one unit, right? It has to be blocked up and jacked a certain way to do this ?

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12 hours ago, td9bcf180 said:

Thanks Louie.  The engine and clutch come out as one unit, right? It has to be blocked up and jacked a certain way to do this ?

Yes they come out as one unit. 

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Learned something new today. I looked up the serial number for my 57 TD9-91 and it actually was made in 1956. It was purchased brand new in 1957.  So I have a 65 year old machine, not 64.  Extended track frame- 5 roller.

The clutch release shaft is now moving enough that I can see parts of the two woodruff keys. But hopefully tomorrow it will come out. 

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8 hours ago, td9bcf180 said:

Learned something new today. I looked up the serial number for my 57 TD9-91 and it actually was made in 1956. It was purchased brand new in 1957.  So I have a 65 year old machine, not 64.  Extended track frame- 5 roller.

The clutch release shaft is now moving enough that I can see parts of the two woodruff keys. But hopefully tomorrow it will come out. 

I have a 1956 TD9-91 as well, but not the extended track frame ... mine has the dozer blade. it runs well and I enjoy using it regularly around my farm..  1956 was the first year of production for them... 

Good luck with your project ... keep us posted, and with pics if you can ! 
 

Grant

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This one has a model C9G4-5 Bullgrader.  Machine had these options back in 1957: 16" clipped corner shoes, hood side doors, radiator shutter, crankcase guard, head lamp guards, front pull hook, HD Track Roller Guards, Cutaway sprocket mounted on.  Total price $12470 Canadian. I have been going through all the original paperwork when my Dad bought this and there are pages and pages of it, in great condition too. But here's something I didn't know - he traded another TD9 in on it. That one had a serial number of TDCB 7346 T7BJ but I can't find a year for that ??

 

 

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It was used to build logging roads and skidded a bit but had no winch.  "Fantail" on the drawbar where you could hook your chokers.  See photos attached.

2013OldTrucks 003a.jpg

2013OldTrucks 006a.jpg

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Got the clutch release shaft out OK.  Plus the two top bolts you see in the picture for the coupling. My problem now is that I can't get at the 3rd, bottom bolt on this coupling to remove it.   I thought that since the transmission is in neutral, I would just spin the engine/flywheel- but it doesn't budge. The clutch throwout bearing is disengaged from what I can see.  Is my engine seized or how do I remedy this?  Or is there something else going on.  Thanks.

20210424_115930.jpg

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24 minutes ago, td9bcf180 said:

Got the clutch release shaft out OK.  Plus the two top bolts you see in the picture for the coupling. My problem now is that I can't get at the 3rd, bottom bolt on this coupling to remove it.   I thought that since the transmission is in neutral, I would just spin the engine/flywheel- but it doesn't budge. The clutch throwout bearing is disengaged from what I can see.  Is my engine seized or how do I remedy this?  Or is there something else going on.  Thanks.

20210424_115930.jpg

If trans is uncoupled, then yes, your engine is probably seized. Maybe apply a bit more force with a large metal pipe to see if the rust breaks free? You probably will need to rebuilt when its seized I would say.

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12 hours ago, td9bcf180 said:

This one has a model C9G4-5 Bullgrader.  Machine had these options back in 1957: 16" clipped corner shoes, hood side doors, radiator shutter, crankcase guard, head lamp guards, front pull hook, HD Track Roller Guards, Cutaway sprocket mounted on.  Total price $12470 Canadian. I have been going through all the original paperwork when my Dad bought this and there are pages and pages of it, in great condition too. But here's something I didn't know - he traded another TD9 in on it. That one had a serial number of TDCB 7346 T7BJ but I can't find a year for that ??

 

 

I think the TD9 your Dad traded in should have been a 1942 model,  with the serial # you provided ...

There are a number of past posts on the Forum dealing with seized TD engines... hopefully you can search and find them .. if not, I’m sure you will get some advice from those who have dealt with them ..

What shows on the dipstick ? Just oil, oil and water, oil and antifreeze ? That might give you an indication of what’s ahead for you... any obvious places that water could have entered the cylinders, ie:  via the exhaust pipe or the manifold ?

Where in Ontario are you located ? 

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I have a td6 that the clutch was froze up on and had to use a 5' digging bar on the starter teeth to turn the clutch for bolts. If you can get to the pressure plate bolts and back them out most of the way, it will free the clutch to turn.

 

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I have the floor cover off and will try to find pressure plate bolts to back them off. 

Oil on dipstick seems fine. Gonna pull the oil pan off next just to be sure engine isn't seized. 

Eastern Ontario is my location

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Oil level was ok. I drained crankcase since but will take oil pan off tomorrow. 

I think the tranny is in neutral because the top three shifting gears slide on shaft by hand plus the throwout bearing is at end of shaft near transmission coupler as you can see in photo. You can barely see splined part of the same shaft at pressure plate.  You'd think it would spin freely. It doesn't.  A pry bar jammed in the coupler will turn the transmission both top and lower shafts maybe an inch either way. Unless the pressure plate is still engaged like you say and the motor is seized.  

I'll be back at it tomorrow. Thanks for the help.

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17 hours ago, hector gemme said:

I can see the lock adjusting cluch  you could remove it and try desajusted the cluch or remove the startor and try turning the motor by the flywell teeth 

X2

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Is this the clutch lock you refer to (circled in red)? Thanks.

Clutchlockyesno.jpg

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Yes it is the lock in circled and you remove it and you should have 6 or 8 small blocks on  face adjusting ring and the back plate is missing teeths you need to used a punch and a hammer  and tap on the block countercluck wise for desajusting

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