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I'm having this recurring problem with the 3-pt hitch. I use it mostly for pulling a haybine and bailer. The problem is that when using either of these rear implements; the 3-pt position doesn't hold (drops) and it seems like the hydraulic pump kicks in to try and raise putting an extra load/strain on the motor temporarily.  Replaced the hydraulic pump last season. Was thinking of by-passing the tel a depth valve and running hoses from the extra set of remote quick connect couplers on the right side to the 3-pt lift cylinder. and capping off the hoses from the rear junction block that go there now. 

Also, my rear junction box has 4 ports on it, All the drawings I've seen show only 2. Would switching the hoses to the other ports accomplish anything.?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

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Probably tele-depth linkage needs assisted living at its age. Also the pilot valve in the hydra-touch system may need refurbishing. Lots of regular valves have replaced tele-depth set up. They Tele-Depth worked fine in 1961. 

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3 hours ago, 806frank said:

Should be two brackets on rear of tractor to move lift arms to stationary position when not using 2 point

2x  factory knew the system was not designed for drawbar work or to work 50 years on

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Your problem is the leaking down. The teladepth system is working properly, raising the load back to your preselected position.

Eliminating the teladepth will just ensure that whatever you're carrying is dragging on the ground sooner rather than later.

The only advantage to switching to one of the other remotes is if the leakage is internal to the valve, AND the one you switch it to doesn't leak. If the cylinder is bypassing internally, this won't help a bit.

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Imo Matt hit the nail on the head. Leaking in valve or cyl. Teladepth sounds like it is still working. 

    Others make a good point too about using the fixed position.  

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Those had check valves at the rear to prevent settling. A leaking cylinder will still settle some. If it settles all the way overnight the checkvalve is leaking. If it only settles a short distance the cylinder is leaking. Unless of course there is an external leak.

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Your comment on four hoses to the rear. Are you using the block that should be installed in the seat base to the right of the mount? This is the check valve that snoshoe is mentioning. If it is not installed correctly or has failed it will do as you describe. As mentioned if you are not using the hitch "park " it as mentioned.

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Sorry i haven't responded sooner. I had to change the notification settings to get emails when someone comments on my post.

I'll reply in reverse order. I've attached a picture of the rear junction block setup in the seat base from which the hoses go to the lift cylinder for the 3 -pt. I replaced these hoses once and it was a bear because the base nut on the bottom hose doesn't project beyond the cover so you have to take off the whole seat tower if I recall correctly. This is how the hose were connected when I bought the tractor. I question what the other two ports are for since all the drawings I have seen only show 2 ports and if switching my hoses to the other less/never used ports my be a workaround for my problem.

The drawbar definitely drops all the way to the ground overnight. Makes sense to me that the tel a depth is working to reposition the drawbar as it drops. The geniuses I've talked to about this persuaded me that the cylinder is not the problem, rather it was some valve in line because, the hydraulic oil that exits the cylinder when it drops has to be going somewhere outside of the cylinder for it to drop while running or even overnight. 

I'm leaning/liking the check valve as the culprit, if as VacDaddy says its in the seat base and not that big of a bear to get at. I have not seen a parts diagram that shows its location. I've seen the check valve section of the service manual but still don't know its location.

I'm not opposed to running the drawbar it in a fixed position either. Once genius suggested chaining it up in the "right" position. I have attached a couple of more pics of my 3-pt setup. I'd welcome any advice on how to fix its' position.

The third remote doesn't look like it's ever been used. still has good rubber plugs in the quick connect couplings. That leads me to believe it not likely to be leaking, although obviously i could be wrong.  Also not totally sold that the lift cylinder isn't the culprit.

Hey, can somebody tel me what that notched vertical bar on the left side with the squash oval handle does and where it ought to set or what the various notches are for?IMG_7647.jpg.3b7dd2904f400583f395a17fc1cadb88.jpg

Thanks for your responses. I'll stop now.IMG_7646.jpg.7c6549262935bc75b9ec2f577d23c6c6.jpg

 

IMG_7498.jpg

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On 4/19/2021 at 12:21 PM, Matt Kirsch said:

Ah I did not see where he was using it as a fixed drawbar.

The fixed position is the quick and easy solution here.

18 Super M ideas | farmall tractors, farmall, tractors for sale

If you go to the fixed position, is there any need to unhook the teledepth system?  or is there a way to shut it off?
 

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I got fed up with the drawbar on my 560 always hunting for where it wanted to be. I disconnected the tel a depth and ran the drawbar from one of the 2 remotes. It goes up and down when and as much as I say. Problem solved.

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11 hours ago, Mudfly said:

If you go to the fixed position, is there any need to unhook the teledepth system?  or is there a way to shut it off?
 

No, because it is not being used at that point.

If you disconnect it all that will happen is the hitch arms will go to one extreme or the other, and the hydraulic system will stay on demand, robbing power, heating the oil and finding every weak o-ring in the tractor to blow out.

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10 hours ago, ny bill o said:

I got fed up with the drawbar on my 560 always hunting for where it wanted to be. I disconnected the tel a depth and ran the drawbar from one of the 2 remotes. It goes up and down when and as much as I say. Problem solved.

That only works if the cylinder is not leaking down, which appears to be the problem here.

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I see you still have the original hand hook , 838BB465-FACF-40DB-AB5A-23782A7C70AF.jpeg.9700c1c29cd81aeaf5f088a11f563a58.jpeg

tool box lid, BF419627-FA5A-4BF0-8690-1C8BE1AC1162.jpeg.d3f59b9c607618cff8ea6c5fa3fabecf.jpeg

and hook clips. Those are usually broken or lost altogether. C32F980A-EB07-42DE-B5DF-F9DE621A3F28.jpeg.70dfb16a3780d0f763b94281dc824611.jpeg

 

do you still have the tool tray inside your tool box? 

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As mmi said the notched lever is for ground engaging tillage equipment, moves the wedge under tractor at front of fast hitch to give more or less draft control to give you added traction when plowing ect. 

The check valve was inline to the fast hitch to keep it from creeping down when in use as the hyd lever valves were not real good at stoping that even when new. 

 Teledepth senses when arms drop and raises them back to set height,  therefore it sounds like it's working. 

    Not sure I'm convinced cyl isn't leaking internally either. Still a possibility anyway. Imo.

If somebody had a picture of one in the fixed or set position that might help you too.

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I am more leaning to the cylinder leaking at the plate of the cylinder that moves inside, this bypasses oil leaking outside because it is all internal. If you do not need the lift part pin it stationary at the provided locations on each side and then lower the cylinder so the lift arms are down. It will be easier to get on and the drawbar will be at normal height for use and the one picture above shows where the points of attachment are. Tractor will not try to lift or lower as it is in the down location already and will not interfere with any operation. 

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I hate getting old. Information I gave before is correct if equiped with double acting check valve. It occured to me that some if not all of those were equiped with single acting check valve. A piston leak with one of those would allow to settle to ground.

Raise hitch. Remove hose from top of cylinder. If oil comes out of cylinder as it settles. Cylinder is leaking past piston. If oil level goes down as it settles. Check valve is bad or somebody installed upside down.

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MMI:

I'm pulling a haybine; baler and brush hog occasionally.  I can't quite figure out where this drawbar extension would go to pin the drawbar in a fixed position. Or any other way to fix its position. 

liowaboy: like your suggestion If someone has a pic of how to fix the drawbar position, that would help.

snoshoe: we all can empathize with getting old.  I believe i read where the tel a depth is only double acting. I think that's why there's no single/double selector on that valve. the other two are selectable. someone else suggested that cylinder test, but both hoses are on the top of the cylinder. which one to remove to test.

So an internal leak in the cylinder will allow it to settle to the ground? is that the consensus? seems like rebuilding the cylinder might be the just be the place to start fix as it's easiest to get to. Would also get the most wear on the seals.

Does seems like the tel a depth valve is doing what it's supposed to do. Then move on to check valve if it still acts up. 

Lorenzo: no tool tray. nice to know what that cover and area was used for. i actually lost the hand hook, bought one used to replace it then I think i found the lost one. So I think I have an extra.

thanks all

 

 

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I posted a picture of the drawbar in the fixed position earlier in this thread.

To get the proper 14" from tip of PTO shaft to center of drawbar pin hole, you need a drawbar extension plate. It bolts to the fast hitch drawbar in the center. Otherwise the PTO can chatter as you make sharp turns.

FARMALL 460 560 tractor Fast Hitch Swinging Drawbar - $229.99 | PicClick

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1 hour ago, mbgardner said:

snoshoe: we all can empathize with getting old.  I believe i read where the tel a depth is only double acting. I think that's why there's no single/double selector on that valve. the other two are selectable. someone else suggested that cylinder test, but both hoses are on the top of the cylinder. which one to remove to test.

Yes the hitch is double acting. The check valve probably not. Meaning it only locks one hose. If it locked both a leaking piston could not settle all the way because of rod displacement.

As far as which hose. I'm afraid I don't remember. I think it's the one that comes from the top of the check valve. Only raise hitch a couple inches. Start loosening hose. If it starts spraying oil. That's the wrong hose.

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2 hours ago, Matt Kirsch said:

I posted a picture of the drawbar in the fixed position earlier in this thread.

To get the proper 14" from tip of PTO shaft to center of drawbar pin hole, you need a drawbar extension plate. It bolts to the fast hitch drawbar in the center. Otherwise the PTO can chatter as you make sharp turns.

FARMALL 460 560 tractor Fast Hitch Swinging Drawbar - $229.99 | PicClick

Thank you. I have one of those plates but took it off for some reason. At least now I know its purpose and can use it accordingly. I see your picture above with the lift arms removed from the rockshaft(?) I'll have to look into how they connect to that cross shaft (rock shaft?) where my top link mounts. must be that curved arm from the lift cylinder and the connecting rods from the tel a depth need to be removed/disconnected on the that left side.  not sure how the lift arms would get attached on either side really.. but thanks for pointing all of this out.

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