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I spent the afternoon and evening today building this engine stand. Tired of wrestling engines around on the floor or bench with the cherry picker. I'll put her to the test next week with a DT466. I used a 60:1 speed reducer and a 2" shaft. Two rigid casters and one swivel with two locking feet on the rear corners. I'll have to make adapters as I go but at least I have the stand built now. 

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not to be critical ,,,just pointers

shorten the 2'' shaft so the plate is almost touching the pillow block bearing.

the joint above the swivel caster looks too weak could fail [ vertical tube]

how thick is the wall of the tube ?

great idea for the gear reducer to turn the motor

Mike

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Looks great. I would put a couple of supports from the center just below the shaft to the base at an angle. I’ll agree with Mike H about the shaft length. Mike

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I WOULD HAVE PUT SWIVEL CASTERS IN ALL 4 CORNERS AND DID A LITTLE MORE BRACING BUT OVERALL LOOKS GOOD.

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The OTC engine rotisserie that I just sold for $1000 looks like this picture.   This would hold any diesel engine.

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P1010046a.jpg

P1010049a.jpg

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1 hour ago, Mike H said:

not to be critical ,,,just pointers

shorten the 2'' shaft so the plate is almost touching the pillow block bearing.

the joint above the swivel caster looks too weak could fail [ vertical tube]

how thick is the wall of the tube ?

great idea for the gear reducer to turn the motor

Mike

I would suggest widening the plate on the engine side then adding a brace under it moving the pillow block bearings further apart. Wider stance between them will add some capacity

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52 minutes ago, Mike H said:

not to be critical ,,,just pointers

shorten the 2'' shaft so the plate is almost touching the pillow block bearing.

the joint above the swivel caster looks too weak could fail [ vertical tube]

how thick is the wall of the tube ?

great idea for the gear reducer to turn the motor

Mike

No offense taken.

If I shorten the shaft I'm afraid I won't have enough clearance for engine accessories, oil coolers, front covers, filter bases, etc. This will bolt the side of 6 and 4 cylinder diesel engines so the leverage would be reduced from bolting on the rear of an engine.

4" square with 1/4" wall. Not really worried about it ripping out. It will have a constant load and no jerking. Same reason I did not include more gussets. 

I thought about 4 casters but most of the manufactured ones and the OTC we had when I worked for the dealer have two rigid and one swivel and was completely stable with an engine on it. 

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8 hours ago, bitty said:

I would suggest widening the plate on the engine side then adding a brace under it moving the pillow block bearings further apart. Wider stance between them will add some capacity

That could be done easy enough and not loose any clearance. Thanks.

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Looks good I think that should work well.  If you decide it needs more you can always add it later.  We have the OTC revolver at work.  I’m pretty sure that thing will handle a way bigger engine than I will probably ever have on it.  As far as the adapters go making your own is not a big deal.  We have made 3 different ones.  The last  2 I needed L10/ M11/ISM and a Navistar HT570 were like 750 or something each.  We have enough fabrication tools and left over materials it wasn’t too difficult to make them.  

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Who are your helpers in the back ground?

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