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Hi guys. I'm the new owner of a 100C (TD7C in loader trim). I ordered the service and owners manuals already (first step with new iron). While I wait.. a few questions for you folks:

-The throttle lever on the dash. Which position is the cold start position I'm hearing about? There seems to be a large notch at the very bottom--I'm thinking that is "stop". Just up from stop, like the lowest RUN throttle position.. is that cold start? I think my low idle is set too low, it dies at the lowest run position.

-Should I hit the decelerator when shifting with the power shift? Or is the best at full throttle? I come to a complete stop before switching FWD and REV. But between 1,2,3 in the same direction.. full throttle?

-The D206 absolutely screams. Even with nice Peltor 105s on, my ears ache after a while. I gotta get a new muffler and stack and get it above the roof. But do you guys run these things at 100% full throttle? Maybe it's the lack of muffler, but it seems pretty wound out. Wish it had a tach.

-Factory oil gauge shows it barely in the "RUN" zone after warm up with new 15w-40. I hope the gauge is just no good

-Found a gallon of coolant in the oil. It's been sitting for a few years. It was pure coolant, no milkshake. I think it happened while it sat. Other threads talk about liner o-rings. Hoping that what it is. Maybe a slow drip over 2 years. Coolant holding steady over night and at pressure. I'll be keeping an eye on it.

Thanks everyone

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Swampdigger,  Welcome to the forum, I have attached a page out of the operators manual, the large notch is the cold start position, after starting and leaving it in the cold start position the engine will start to lope after a couple of minutes, then move the throttle to the low idle position. You want to run it at full high idle position, the tractor has a torque converter, it needs high rpm (they are rated at 2500 rpm) to develop power to the transmission. You can shift from 1 to 2 to 3 without using the decelerator, use the decelerator when shifting from forward to reverse and come to a stop, or when wanting to creep the tractor, after awhile you will get the feel for it's use. We like to see pictures.

IH 100C contro.s.jpg

IH 100C.jpg

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Thanks Louie. Thats exactly what I was looking for. I'll have manuals in a few weeks, but thats fills in some gaps for now. I've got some work to do on that throttle linkage.

I'll get some pictures. Just waiting for the ground to dry a bit, then we'll build some roads. Little idea what I'm doing. Got a gravel pit, this 100C and a 200 hoe. More energy than brains, couple of kids we are. 

Thanks again Louie. Man thats a deadly little ripper on the back or your loader. Is that the stock unit?

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Well, the reason I got it cheap was because the ring gear on the flywheel is toast. Missing lots of teeth because the starter is not disengaging properly. It needs a new ring gear and starter pinion.

I'm going to pull the engine this weekend. What's the easiest way?

-should I pull the radiator for space? looks easy enough

-should I leave torque convertor attached to engine?

Thanks

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2 hours ago, louie figone said:

You need to pull the radiator. The torque converter will come out with the engine. You need to get the service manual for the 100C. 

IH 100C service manual.jpg

Mr.Figone,is there a source for original service and operators manuals?

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3 hours ago, Bulldogred said:

Mr.Figone,is there a source for original service and operators manuals?

There is a factory service manual on ebay now for the 100Chttps://www.ebay.com/itm/252847791311?hash=item3adee71ccf:g:IdgAAOSww3tY5rII

Searching Ebay is probably the best if you want OEM service manuals, otherwise there are reprints available, the quality is not as good as the original manuals.

 

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11 minutes ago, louie figone said:

There is a factory service manual on ebay now for the 100Chttps://www.ebay.com/itm/252847791311?hash=item3adee71ccf:g:IdgAAOSww3tY5rII

Searching Ebay is probably the best if you want OEM service manuals, otherwise there are reprints available, the quality is not as good as the original manuals.

 

Yes,I've seen a lot of reprints that just black  out a service picture.Thank you.

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Hey Louie, the service manual is in the mail. Unfortunately it's still one and a half weeks away. 

This weekend I got the rad out, wiring, lines and gauges peeled away from the engine. Removed and capped most the lines out of the torque converter. Lots of room to work with that rad out if the way. 

Does the drive shaft have a slip yoke like a pickup truck? Im thinking it doesnt, and the ujoint strap need to be removed. Any tips? 

Hopefully get the engine out later this week. 

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