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Engine replacement in an 806


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This may have been asked before, but how much stuff would have to be changed to put a 414/436 in an 806?

 I have access to an 806 with a bad engine, and access to an engine from a 1460.

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Longer hood, longer framerails, and longer connections (throttle linkages, hoses, steering lines) Probably modify/shorten fuel tank. 

That's what's coming to me off the top of my head. 

A 360 is a lot easier fit but like you said you have access to a 400 series. It can be done though. 

Seen one where a guy just slid the front bolster ahead a set or two of holes and didn't lengthen frame rails. It worked. 

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My son and I started on an 806 gas to DT436 conversion last winter for his FFA project. Covid hit. School got cancelled and he graduated so it got stuck on the back burner. Started on it again last month little by little. Rebuilt the engine and bolted it up without a clutch to see what cutting we needed to do. He started cutting down the front mounting ears the other night. narrowing it to the width of the bolster. He painted the rear plate to see what needs to be cut off. We will pull the engine away and cut that painted area off. From what I measured everything will measure correct if we use 806 diesel frame rails. The hole in the hood for the turbo is up in the air yet as is a lot of little things. And I need to have the radiator lower inlet moved from left to right.

At last years RPRU in Huron a guy had a D361 for sale. I don't remember what he was asking. Whatever it was it would have been cheaper.

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24 minutes ago, 706 German said:

You mean you want to do this?

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Did you have your rear engine plate machined down where the framerails/rear engine plate/clutch housing all meet?  Good thinking, that'll avoid the need for longer hoods

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33 minutes ago, Nebraska1206 said:

Did you have your rear engine plate machined down where the framerails/rear engine plate/clutch housing all meet?  Good thinking, that'll avoid the need for longer hoods

I got the engine plate fro Ed Leaman. The plate is top notch quality. I can save you some headaches and tell you that you will still need to lengthen the frame rails and hoods. The only way you can get away with out extending the frame rails would be to use 806 gas frame rails and an 66 series back plate. Mine is set up so that in the event that I find a 1026/1456 hood it will bolt on. I am not holding my breath for that tho. 

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This has been a year long project as I have time and I am down to making the front tank support and I will be done. It is not the hardest thing to do, but definitely more than just slap it together, if you want it to look nice when done. 

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My brother did a 436 from a 986 transplant in a 806 that was a gasser 4-5 years ago. I posted pictures back then about it. I think the used the 986 frame rails and lengthened the hood. He says d it wasn’t bad. They had a complete 986 front end off a burned tractor.

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28 minutes ago, 706 German said:

This has been a year long project as I have time and I am down to making the front tank support and I will be done. It is not the hardest thing to do, but definitely more than just slap it together, if you want it to look nice when done. 

Can you utilize the front fuel tank support (from tank to engine) from a 1066/1466?  The fuel tank (assuming you used one for a 1206/1256 to clear the exhaust elbow) should be the same as a 1066/1466

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7 hours ago, Alan Dinan said:

This may have been asked before, but how much stuff would have to be changed to put a 414/436 in an 806?

 I have access to an 806 with a bad engine, and access to an engine from a 1460.

In addition to the frame rail/hood issue you will need to move the bottom bung on the radiator over. What I did was took a bottom bung from a radiator off a 1086 and had a good radiator shop braze it on. Worked pretty well. I used a 766 gas air filter housing and welded the support from a 1066 to the bottom of it. Also cut the  back side off the 1066 air filter housing and welded it on the 766 housing so I could use the 1066 hose to the turbo. With using the 766 gas filter housing the intake was in the proper spot to use a 806 gas hose to go from the filter housing to the front support. I used a 1066 fan without the spacer, not sure if I am going to put a shroud in or not. I used a 806 diesel fuel tank and just had to trim the seam where it meets the back of the head. I used throttle linkage from a 1066 and custom made it to mount on the back of the block to cross over to the other side. Any other questions let me know. 

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10 minutes ago, Nebraska1206 said:

I've noticed some guys using a 560 hood, perhaps they're longer??  If so, they'd be much easier to find than a 1026/1456 hood.

That is what I am going to end up doing. Just holding out for the needle in the haystack still. 

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8 minutes ago, Nebraska1206 said:

Can you utilize the front fuel tank support (from tank to engine) from a 1066/1466?  The fuel tank (assuming you used one for a 1206/1256 to clear the exhaust elbow) should be the same as a 1066/1466

I am going to end up marrying the 806 and a 1066 support together to get what I need. 

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1 hour ago, Nebraska1206 said:

I've noticed some guys using a 560 hood, perhaps they're longer??  If so, they'd be much easier to find than a 1026/1456 hood.

You can do that. I looked at a 706 with a DT466 that he did that. The shape is the same. The only downside is filling all those Farmall name plate holes. He left the name plates on it.

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 Those all sound like cool projects. I enjoy the pics.  Local guy here did a swap like that a few years ago. He was  very happy with it, other than it was running hot when working hard.  He then added a fan shroud.  Said he should have done it initially. 

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Thank you for all of the replies, I think that I will pass on the engine swap and look for another 361 or walk away from the whole thing.

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On 4/6/2021 at 5:38 PM, 706 German said:

I got the engine plate fro Ed Leaman. The plate is top notch quality. I can save you some headaches and tell you that you will still need to lengthen the frame rails and hoods. The only way you can get away with out extending the frame rails would be to use 806 gas frame rails and an 66 series back plate. Mine is set up so that in the event that I find a 1026/1456 hood it will bolt on. I am not holding my breath for that tho. 

Most of the 1026/1456 hoods reside in Texas at Long Farms place .... 

;)

 

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There's a 1456 on a consigment sale here tomorrow with a 466 in it. Nice tractor. Looks like a lot of work has been done, but have to think it would be worth more with a 407, but it's not my tractor. 

 

https://zomer.nextlot.com/public/sales/92161/lots/19329829

 

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45 minutes ago, Worth Co. farmer said:

Have you seen this tractor? What's up with no breather? Makes me think the project isn't finished

No I haven't. They must be using the 66 series air cleaner and a hose to the front grille casting. Or did a 1456 have the holes there for the hose to attach to above the radiator?  The 806 and 856 did. The turbo 06 and 56 series all had precleaners above the hood so I can't tell you for sure.  

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44 minutes ago, Worth Co. farmer said:

Have you seen this tractor? What's up with no breather? Makes me think the project isn't finished

Are you talking about the 1456 repower? If so, it has a top mount breather, comes out the valve cover, and the large tube beside the oil filters is the draft tube 

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1 minute ago, Dan Robinson said:

Are you talking about the 1456 repower? If so, it has a top mount breather, comes out the valve cover, and the large tube beside the oil filters is the draft tube 

I think he means the pre cleaner for the air filter. 

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