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1650 flywheel removal


DT Fan
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I use a harmonic balancer puller, but they are basically the same thing as a wheel puller.  Don't use a jaw puller, you'll break the flywheel.  Don't heat it either.  Tighten the puller up and give the pull bolt a firm whack with a hammer.  It will pop right off. 

Stators very seldom fail.  You sure it is bad?  More likely that the magnets came off the flywheel.  You'll know soon...

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14 hours ago, J-Mech said:

I use a harmonic balancer puller, but they are basically the same thing as a wheel puller.  Don't use a jaw puller, you'll break the flywheel.  Don't heat it either.  Tighten the puller up and give the pull bolt a firm whack with a hammer.  It will pop right off. 

Stators very seldom fail.  You sure it is bad?  More likely that the magnets came off the flywheel.  You'll know soon...

I've done what you describe, including the firm whack with a hammer. Still in place.

I got the stator with a voltage regulator combo. Regulator didn't fix the problem. Already had it 90% disassembled and thought maybe just a bad gauge?

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2 hours ago, DT Fan said:

I've done what you describe, including the firm whack with a hammer. Still in place.

I got the stator with a voltage regulator combo. Regulator didn't fix the problem. Already had it 90% disassembled and thought maybe just a bad gauge?

Sometimes they are tough.  

OHM the stator

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An observation of screw type puller use. Gl5 on the force screw threads. Run scew back and forth a few times to distribute oil and clean threads. Apply moly grease to end of force screw. Use appropriate size impact. In this case 3/8" or throttled 1/2". The combination of ep lube and impacts results in more successful pulls and longer tool life. My most used puller has been in use since 1968 and has pulled a lot of things other people gave up on.

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TIME is also your friend. I was disassembling a K321 years ago, seemed like the flywheel was going to fight me, I snugged up the bolt on the puller and went in the house for lunch. I came out an hour later and the flywheel was pulled off the taper. I left the nut and heavy flat washer screwed onto the end of the crankshaft so the flywheel wouldn't fall off.

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Doc, I've been employing this strategy. With no luck so far! Good thing this kind of low priority. I have, (had?) a better puller if I could just find the darn thing. Seem to have acquired more tools/stuff than I can keep track of.

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Never had one that wouldn't come off with a bunch of puller tension and a few solid raps on the puller jack screw (in line with crank).

Tighten the P out of it and give her some raps.......might also try air hammer on jack bolt.

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Success, finally! Broke down and bought a new puller. Frustrating because I have had one for years, just can't find it! I had been using a homemade one, not even sure where it came from. Anyway, happy it's apart. Maybe it will get back together some rain-day.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Finally had a couple of minutes to look at this yesterday. I ohmed the stator, new and original, they both check '0'. Makes me think the stator is not the problem. Also ohmed the amp gauge, '0' again. Checked another gauge, '0' also. Since I'm getting all these 0 readings I assume that is good?

If the stator is good, the magnets are good, the gauge is good, why is it not charging the battery? Really stumped here. Electricity is not my strong suite. Need to get this thing back together to free up some shed space, it's also the back up mower if something goes wrong with the 782.

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You need to find the rectifier and, before you replace anything , make sure there are no dirty connections or defective wiring. Not aware of a process for testing the rectifier, maybe on YouTube. But you can be reasonably sure that’s the problem if you have eliminated beyond the shadow of a doubt that the rest of the system is faulty. For future reference, the Kohler service book gives specs on the starting/lighting systems, so you can check the stuff without taking the engine apart, for example when probing the disconnected stator wires with the engine running, you should have “x” amount of AC voltage at 3600 rpm.

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  • 1 month later...

Well, everything ohmed out good out good, cleaned up the connections, put her back together. Tired of walking around it. Still doesn't charge the battery. Nice to have a little room in the shed, will take another swing at the charging issue sometime in the future.

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Check for 28-29 volts AC across the 2 outside terminals of the rectifier at WOT.  Then check for 14- 14.5 volts DC center rectifier pin to ground. 

28-29 VAC indicates good stator performance.   14-14.5 VDC indicates correct charging.

If you get good stator and bad charging,  replace voltage regulator. Fairly common failure.

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On 6/21/2021 at 7:58 AM, DT Fan said:

Thanks, that gives me something to check out. The voltage regulator is new, suppose it could still be bad.

I put a brand new voltage regulator (from the dealer) on the 129 before the mowing season. 2 of the contacts "welded " together causing the starter generator to keep running. Cheap new parts! 

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  • 2 months later...

Just read your comments in Iowaboy thread. Made me think of this. Son-in-law has 1250. Not charging. New stator new regulator. No charge. Calls with his tale of woe. I go over all the tests. He says every thing is good. He watched several YouTube videos and he's sure it's right. I ask. You do have battery voltage at b+ don't you? Silence. I think so. Hour and a half later. A text "all good key switch was bad".

Point of story is alternator can be perfect. Still needs to be connected to battery to charge.

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21 minutes ago, snoshoe said:

Just read your comments in Iowaboy thread. Made me think of this. Son-in-law has 1250. Not charging. New stator new regulator. No charge. Calls with his tale of woe. I go over all the tests. He says every thing is good. He watched several YouTube videos and he's sure it's right. I ask. You do have battery voltage at b+ don't you? Silence. I think so. Hour and a half later. A text "all good key switch was bad".

Point of story is alternator can be perfect. Still needs to be connected to battery to charge.

I was just reading through his post.  I fought my deere with a k series kohler twin.   It was the key switch!!! not letting it charge.  It would start and work like it was suppose to, just not charge

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11 hours ago, snoshoe said:

Just read your comments in Iowaboy thread. Made me think of this. Son-in-law has 1250. Not charging. New stator new regulator. No charge. Calls with his tale of woe. I go over all the tests. He says every thing is good. He watched several YouTube videos and he's sure it's right. I ask. You do have battery voltage at b+ don't you? Silence. I think so. Hour and a half later. A text "all good key switch was bad".

Point of story is alternator can be perfect. Still needs to be connected to battery to charge.

 

11 hours ago, nate said:

I was just reading through his post.  I fought my deere with a k series kohler twin.   It was the key switch!!! not letting it charge.  It would start and work like it was suppose to, just not charge

Thanks guys, I'll look into this!

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Jumper a wire from middle pin on reg straight to battery positive terminal......cuts out the middle man (switch/harness/wiring/etc.)....then check for charge voltage.

 

Don't leave it like this, but test it like this....

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