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5488 For Sale!


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Found a 5488 locally that looks pretty decent. By the serial number it is a mid '82 model. Went out and looked it over the best I could with what I have learned from others. I put together a little list of things that I have found, some are just my personal thoughts, but nonetheless would like a little feedback. They are getting information put together on the tractor for me, but the guy who made the trade won't be back till Wednesday so I don't know what kind of money they are talking yet. The guy I talked with today mentioned something about it either having an engine or transmission overhaul but not real certain at this point. Reputable dealer, known and done business with them forever. 

 

I'm not expecting perfection, but looking at things that will need attention sooner than later. I do understand that it is a 39 year old Tractor! 

 

Here's the list, anything I forget?

 

1982 2wd 5488 International  (3-28-2021)

Serial Number: 2590002u001788

HOURS: 8,849

Pros

- at local dealer
- large rear wheel weights
- front end weights
- triple hydraulics
- duals
- new seat
- original style data center (amber digits)
- led work lights
- overall decent appearance 
- new tire upfront 
- tilt wheel
- starts at lower temperature 
- newer ac compressor and lines
- blower works on all speeds
- cab corners, pillars, & roof not rusted out
- decent paint
- 3pt works and is complete 
- pto works 
- absent of large oil puddles 

Cons 

( * high dollar item and/or attention required)

- no sentry, has test harness *
- high hours for engine
- synchronizer out on 3rd gear *
- shifts hard into reverse and Med range *
- lighter front axle
- sheetmetal needs work
- needs all 4 rear tires and one front *
- interior 
- cab heat inoperable *
- stereo inoperable 
- hazard lights inoperable 
- top link needs work
- tail lights broken
- old IH style hyd couplers on 2 of 3 remotes *
- high wear on drawbar and drawbar support
- steering column worn-out 
- deep rust spots on rt door & right side shield
- cracked front lower cab plastic
- missing battery box covers
- rusted through exhaust stack
- fuel and coolant gauges inoperable *
- data center does not function correctly *
- coolant light illuminates on data center *
- large 1000 pto
- Differential Lock doesn't work *
- 20.8-38 instead of 18.4-42

Prior history 
- service records?
- transmission updates?
- how long has test harness been installed?
- engine work?
- fan bearing replaced last?
- previous owner name and number?
   - how long prior owner had tractor
   - tractor used for?
   - where owner bought tractor from?

Check:
[  ] Engine oil level & condition 
Full, black, smelled ok, didn't feel gritty. Recent filter change
[  ] Engine blowby
Not overly noticeable, had to get close to notice any
[  ] Engine Coolant & Radiator 

[  ] Radiator fan shaft bearing 

[  ] Engine exhaust color
White smoke with tractor cold, idling
[  ] Exhaust and turbo
Exhaust pipe rusted, evidence of high heat from muffler shown on side shield, turbo return line leaking
[  ] Hydraulic oil level, color, condition 
Full, clear, appears new, smells like hytran but isn't red like hytran (mobile??)
[  ] 3 point hitch
Moves up and down, lower arms good shape
Top link fair condition, missing t on handle
[  ] PTO
Engages and functions, arm rest interferes with lever travel, slight hyd fluid seep around shaft
[  ] Steering
Steering column loose
Steers difficult, eventually goes stop to stop ( tractor was cold during test) 
[  ] Air Conditioning 
New compressor & fittings, too cold to test
[  ] Heat
Knob & thermostat missing 
[  ] Stereo 
Does not work, speakers damaged ($350)
[  ] Lights
Work lights function 
Hazard lights do not function 
Dome light does not function 
[  ] Gauges
Oil pressure works
Volt meter works
Fuel gauge doesn't work, likely a sending unit
Coolant gauge does not appear to work
[  ] Data Center  
Coolant level light flashing
Noting reads as it should, hour meter does not appear to move (moved .01 after 20 minutes of run time) needs repaired ($500)
[  ] Cab mounts

[  ] Rear axle seals
Weights make it unable to see, no oil visible on either rim
[  ] Tires
Rears inner and duals need replaced ($6,000)
One new front other needs replaced ($500)
[  ] Other leaks
Oil around pto shaft
Brake hose at firewall
Return line from turbo
[  ] Transmission 
Shift all ranges, all speeds
- doesn't shift easily to medium or want to go into reverse easily, but does hold once there. Could be adjustment issue
- grinds going into 3rd gear, synchronizer likely out, tractor needs split twice to repair
- test harness installed, needs Sentry ($3,000)- differential lock doesn't function (switch doesn't move) +...?

Purchase agreement requirements 
[  ] Oil & fluid samples 
[  ] New sentry installed
[  ] Dyno 
[  ] All fluids included or proof of replacement 
[  ] Pressure & flow test hydraulics

 

 

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Overall, appearance wise from what I can see it looks like a spray can job. It looks decent enough to say it's worth putting money into, and some items a guy could live with. Biggest factors are going to be repair of the three major items you are always afraid of, engine hours, (if not overhauled), trans problems you already stated, and tires, you can easily have 4-7k in just tires alone if you want some that are going to last. The biggest thing that would worry me is the test harness...

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3 hours ago, Mike56073 said:

Around here that tractor will fetch 15K all day long, just as it sits

This area too. Dealership sold a 8000 some houred 1981, 5088 a customer had on consignment last year needing a engine overhaul and about as many issues as this 5488 for 18,000.

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Holy crap, well thanks guys. I need to get some more info, but that gives me quite a bit more confidence.

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i seen one back in the fall here sell for 9500 in about the same shape it just needed paint, the hard shift could be it just needs cab mounts which imo id replace anyway

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the diff lock could be blown fuse bad wire bad switch, coolant light are just a pia ive seen people black them and the egt light out with a sharpie i don't much blame them  i got two right now the coolant lights blink no matter what and on one short of the wire in the cab everything else has been replaced i tell the guys if you check it in the morning like your post to and there are no signs of leaks don't worry, to me this tractor would be a good buy if your wanting a 54 you can use a fix up as you go just my 2 cents

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31 minutes ago, 88power said:

the diff lock could be blown fuse bad wire bad switch, coolant light are just a pia ive seen people black them and the egt light out with a sharpie i don't much blame them  i got two right now the coolant lights blink no matter what and on one short of the wire in the cab everything else has been replaced i tell the guys if you check it in the morning like your post to and there are no signs of leaks don't worry, to me this tractor would be a good buy if your wanting a 54 you can use a fix up as you go just my 2 cents

Thank you

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Cab heat inoperable?   The blower runs, so pretty near has to be the previous owner shut of the cab heater valve on the engine block.   Makes the A/C work better on hot days, ya-kno?  Lot of old timers did that.   Of course the hearer core might be leaking too.

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In my opinion, this would be a good tractor to buy IF you can do the work yourself. No way would I take it to the dealer and have them fix it. Just understand what you have here, you said synchronizer is out of 3rd gear and it shifts hard into reverse and medium range. So you have potential problems in speed section and range section, 2 separate housings. Much more work = Labor $$'sss. The test harness needs removed and sentry unit put back in. When you fix 3rd gear syncro you can see if anything was damaged from running test harness. Speaking of 3rd syncro, does it just grind going in the gear or are the teeth wore off enough it won't grab the gear anymore? You say reverse- medium shifts hard. Do you mean the lever moves hard or it doesn't want to engage in those gears. Cold oil will affect how it shifts into medium but I've not had cold oil affect how it shifts into reverse. If the lever moves hard I've had the shift shafts get tight where they go through the top of the range housing. Or if you buy it just load it up and haul it to Mike Links. 

 

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If you aren’t going to be going row crop work I wouldn’t see the 20.8-38 as a drawback. Same height as the 18.4-42 with a wider foot print and a better ride. 

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2 hours ago, Jeff-C-IL said:

Cab heat inoperable?   The blower runs, so pretty near has to be the previous owner shut of the cab heater valve on the engine block.   Makes the A/C work better on hot days, ya-kno?  Lot of old timers did that.   Of course the hearer core might be leaking too.

The thermostat is gone, nothing to turn inside cab. Not end of the world, probably not a hard fix, just noted it. We shut ours off on the 1086, I get what your saying 

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3 hours ago, TB5288 said:

In my opinion, this would be a good tractor to buy IF you can do the work yourself. No way would I take it to the dealer and have them fix it.

 

(That is what I figured on, or atleast as much as I can. Not afraid to learn new things, and I have good resources for things I can't do alone)

 

Just understand what you have here, you said synchronizer is out of 3rd gear and it shifts hard into reverse and medium range. So you have potential problems in speed section and range section, 2 separate housings. Much more work = Labor $$'sss.

( It will go into 3rd, just not near as nicely as it does into 5th or back to 2nd, not sure if that helps? I don't truly remember it grinding like a synchronizer but it had to be pushed pretty hard. The tractor was not at operating temperature, and it was about 32° f when I drove it after letting the tractor idle for 5 minutes. The hydraulic oil was probably too cold for a fair shake?

   The medium and reverse thing I truly believe to be an adjustment or cab mount issue. (Forgot to look while there) It acts similar to the 1086 speed shifter in 1st where the handle hits the back stop while its trying to go into gear. It will hold in reverse and medium once it's in there, it just doesn't feel  "positive" like going to low and high.)

 

The test harness needs removed and sentry unit put back in.

( That's definitely the plan!)

 

Look at the () in your post 

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1 hour ago, Gearclash said:

If you aren’t going to be going row crop work I wouldn’t see the 20.8-38 as a drawback. Same height as the 18.4-42 with a wider foot print and a better ride. 

I like the 20.8s, but the tractor will likely be used for spraying and planting eventually. Not a deal breaker by any means, just prefer the 18.4 42s, as we have on both magnums

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12 hours ago, td9inidaho said:

It will sell, question is, do you want it??

I believe you, I want a 5488, this one is close. Problem is the guy that did the deal won't be in till tomorrow. Really don't have alot of background on it other than what I found.

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54 minutes ago, Rescue11 said:

 

Look at the () in your post 

Oil temp makes a big difference on how these tractors shift. So yeah if it was cold the first thing would be to get everything warmed up good and see how it shifts. Cab mounts is a good possibility, I haven't personally seen many worn out but have seen several where the rubber broke loose from the center sleeve.

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18 hours ago, TB5288 said:

Oil temp makes a big difference on how these tractors shift. So yeah if it was cold the first thing would be to get everything warmed up good and see how it shifts. Cab mounts is a good possibility, I haven't personally seen many worn out but have seen several where the rubber broke loose from the center sleeve.

your right about the oil temp causing it , there are some cheaper mounts out there that break and that happened to us on the 52 causing it to hard shift and it can also cause your pto lever to not say in we had that happen on a 50

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9 hours ago, 88power said:

your right about the oil temp causing it , there are some cheaper mounts out there that break and that happened to us on the 52 causing it to hard shift and it can also cause your pto lever to not say in we had that happen on a 50

Where does a guy find the better mounts then?

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34 minutes ago, 5288IH said:

Do not forget that it is almost a 40 yo tractor. A lot of the problems that you mentioned are common problems.

Noted

 

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10 hours ago, jimw said:

If someone pulled the floor pan the wire connection often doesn’t get hooked back up

X2, and I’ve also seen the switches get corrosion inside themselves.  It’s not difficult to take them apart to clean them 

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