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5488 #4 remote won’t hold implement up


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Working again on the #4 remote on my 5488(1984).  When I have an implement hooked to it, the implement wont stay up once the fluid is warmed up.  It only does this on #4(closest to the driver). For example, I can be hooked to the ripper, lift out of the ground on the headlands, and by the time I’m turned around the ripper has already settled a few inches.  The only thing I’ve replaced so far is the signal check spring.  It was pretty much crushed.

      According to my service manual, there should be an alternating check valve back there, but I can’t find it.  My 5288(1982) has one(see picture), but it’s not there on any remotes on the 54.  The lines are still one piece, so nothing has been removed as far as I can tell.

      If the newer tractor isn’t supposed to have an alternating check valve, what’s the first thing I should look at then for the settling issue?

03094833-0A93-4BB7-BE7E-1EE78CAB43F3.jpeg

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Make sure its not an implement problem try different valves on the tractor and see if its the same results

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Yes it’s only on #4.  I’ve gone to #1 and the implements stay up like they should.  This is with the DMI ripper and also the field cultivator 

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4 minutes ago, Mike56073 said:

Yes it’s only on #4.  I’ve gone to #1 and the implements stay up like they should.  This is with the DMI ripper and also the field cultivator 

Next question how many valves do you normally use on your DMI ripper? Couldn't you use the first or second valve and get by?

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The way I understood, those check valves were an option. Some have them some don't. My 52 has only one and we have seen a 54 with three. Doesn't help you any with your issue though. 

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34 minutes ago, snoshoe said:

Does the spool have any play in neutral?

I ask questions and don't explain. If spool has play. You can inspect detent and centering spring area for cause. If not. Problem will be spool or valve body damage. Choices are replace valve or add check valve.

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12 hours ago, jass1660 said:

I always considered handle closest to me as number one. 

I was always told that the motor priority valve is #1. 

     Whatever/however they are numbered, the one closest to the driver is the one I’m having issues with.

    I’ll double check the neutral adjustment, if that’s fine I’ll check the spool then.  The good thing is that’s the valve on the very outside of the stack.

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On the 50 series the outside valve (farthest from the seat) is the priority valve. Under the cab, it is the inside valve on the stack. At the rear of the tractor, it is the set of couplers on the top right. Clear as mud?  Like Snoshoe said, only a couple things you can do with the valve. 
Edit: I just re-read your last post, you have the numbering correct. 

Edited by ihrondiesel
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4 hours ago, Mike56073 said:

 

    I’ll double check the neutral adjustment, if that’s fine I’ll check the spool then.  The good thing is that’s the valve on the very outside of the stack.

If you have to take the valve off the stack, get yourself some all-thread to make studs to hold everything in place. With 4 valves IH used bolts instead of studs to hold the valves on. I take out 2 bolts and then thread in the studs before taking the other 2 bolts out, makes it a little easier than trying to catch 7 pieces at once when you take the last bolt out. 

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1 hour ago, ihrondiesel said:

If you have to take the valve off the stack, get yourself some all-thread to make studs to hold everything in place. With 4 valves IH used bolts instead of studs to hold the valves on. I take out 2 bolts and then thread in the studs before taking the other 2 bolts out, makes it a little easier than trying to catch 7 pieces at once when you take the last bolt out. 

Great advise. The first time I had to do this job was on a 3 valve tractor, I thought I could do it without studs. Nope, way too much stuff to hold straight in order to get bolts started, never attempted it again without studs.  Plus with all the moving around it's easy to have an o-ring fall out of place and not know it until it's too late. If your inner rear wheels are set in you'll need to slide it out or remove wheel rim from inner hub to give you room to work. Don't forget you're dealing with metric bolts, need metric all-thread. Sometimes a little difficult to find. 

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