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  Needed another tractor. Have looked at used and new tractors. Decided to pull this old tractor out of the bushes and go again. It lost steering and the transmission sounded like it had a marble bursting machine in the transmission several years ago. Read on REDPOWER forum it could be the pump drive gear in the pressure plate housing. Broke it down and bingo, bad shaft. Ordered a clutch and some other stuff from Allstates. They did not have the shaft. Also need a top link and some misc parts. I will start back on my parts search after the weekend.

  This tractor also had bouts of steering, clutch and brakes not functioning when cold. Left idling for some time it would work. Reading on REDPOWER forum it way have just had the wrong fluid in it.

  My real question is:  Are there any other things I need to do while I am in this deep? Thanks in advance!

  Working on pictures.

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Why is the steering tower and fuel tank off of it? 

Several places will have a new IPTO shaft.  Ag Parts (not All States Ag Parts), Hy-Capacity, Steiner may have it and of course CIH. 

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  Because the last number of years it ran it would jump out of 1st gear. Just ran it in 2nd 3rd and 4th. Pulled the top off to see what was the problem. Nothing?

Found the tachometer cable was disconnected and had worked its way behind the linkage. That pushed it out of first gear.

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That could be the oil, could be the filter, could be a suction tube leak between the filter andthe MCV pump (over simplified) but either way, it’s not related to the split job you are doing now. So fix what you see there, and put it back together. 

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1 hour ago, 1066 Peterbilt said:

  What I was really concerned about was the slow to prime? oil for the steering pump. Also are there any things that might need attention while I am here. Thanks for the replies.

Like 800 said, nothing related to the split.

Clutch, flywheel, IPTO input shaft, pilot and thro-out bearing, transmission input seals, rear main engine seal and rear engine adapter plate gasket are all things to fix or address while the tractor is split.  If the T/A was not working, and since you took the tower off, now is the time to put a torque in if it needs it.

You'll just have to put it together to diagnose and repair the hydraulics.  They can't run without the IPTO input shaft you say was bad.  It drives both pumps as well as the PTO.

If it was mine, first thing I would find is the correct grille and rip the Peterbuilt emblems off.  Why people do such things hurts my head. 

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I'm assuming that in the pic of the tractor outside you had started disassembly? Lots of missing parts on the left side....

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20 hours ago, J-Mech said:

Like 800 said, nothing related to the split.

Clutch, flywheel, IPTO input shaft, pilot and thro-out bearing, transmission input seals, rear main engine seal and rear engine adapter plate gasket are all things to fix or address while the tractor is split.  If the T/A was not working, and since you took the tower off, now is the time to put a torque in if it needs it.

You'll just have to put it together to diagnose and repair the hydraulics.  They can't run without the IPTO input shaft you say was bad.  It drives both pumps as well as the PTO.

If it was mine, first thing I would find is the correct grille and rip the Peterbuilt emblems off.  Why people do such things hurts my head. 

   We freshened it up about 25 years ago. My neighbors 1086 had caught on fire but he got it put out. The insurance company repaired it. When he saw us working on it he said the decal set on the insurance bill was $380. Never even called after that. Our grill was broken. We pulled that stuff off trucks in the scrap yard. It was free. The silver paint was left over from something else. Regret not buying better red paint. It comes with hardener so it must be OK? WRONG! 

  It has been humerus at times. When we still had an IH dealer the owner did not appreciate as well. I miss those guys!

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20 hours ago, J-Mech said:

I'm assuming that in the pic of the tractor outside you had started disassembly? Lots of missing parts on the left side....

  Yes: Took all that apart in the field from bad advice. Figured out the problem was not in that hole. Unhooked the mower and mowed around it a couple of years.

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  Thanks for the help and replies! No hard feelings I hope but I have grown a little attached to it. Thank I will keep it a 1066 Peterbilt.

  New question: I had forgotten how bad the 3 point stuff was worn out. This tractor has done a lot of three point work. The 1586 in our bone yard 3 point looks like new just all seized up. None of the parts are interchangeable, all or nothing. 1066 has a canopy and 1586 has a cab. Both of them look pretty close to the the upper lift arms. Will those lift arms come off the shaft without removing the ROPS and or cab brackets?

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  • 2 weeks later...

  Thanks for the help! Hope I did not ruffle any ones feathers. We replaced the rear main, clutch and other seals mentioned. Ran into a problem with the pilot bearing. Ours is a number F7700 and no body could find one. Thank that worked out to be a 52 MM OD and a 3/4" ID ( .750 ) . Machined a sleeve for that. Waiting on the clutch shaft, fork and bearing collar kit lost in internet land. Trying a different CIH dealer on some other parts. That looks promising.

  Pulling the front off to replace the front crank seal as it was already seeping. Radiator is trash.

  All the three point stuff came off the 86 around the cab stuff. Just seized pins were a problem. That will not work around the 66 ROPS. Thank we will just pull the ROPS instead of the hydraulic top plate.

  Rereading the post I see I missed the rear engine adapter plate gasket. I am reluctant to go back after the clutch is already mounted. 

  Any other pointers would be appreciated.

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  Finally got a tracking number for the clutch fork kit.

  Have a 1 1/4 oil pump shipped today. Hope that works in place of the 1" pump as the shaft has a little fretting. Did not get a ballancer shipped out today.

Those were recommended from other posts here. Hope all that works out.

  This tractor had some hydraulic slobbers when it last ran. This plug in the front. Best I remember it is just a O-ring. Even ordered what ever goes in there from the dealer. It still leaked. Never took this part off the back until today. It also leaked some.  So what is the deal? Bad spool valve needs to be replaced?

  

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  Up date and some pictures.

  The first one should be the pump driveshaft and the pilot bearing that has never been made.

  Second one the 1 1/4 oil pump. Looks like that will work out lined up with the best splines.

  Third is the clutch fork kit that finally arrived from Neverland. 

  I was concerned about my pilot bearing bushing but the sections pulled together with Channel Lock. Should be good.

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On 4/5/2021 at 10:00 PM, 1066 Peterbilt said:

  Finally got a tracking number for the clutch fork kit.

  Have a 1 1/4 oil pump shipped today. Hope that works in place of the 1" pump as the shaft has a little fretting. Did not get a ballancer shipped out today.

 

On the 1 1/4 oil pump some front pulleys will not clear them from what I've found. Later ones would but earlier ones we were having issues with, some got machined I think and some were swapped around too. If you were ordering a new one maybe all the new ones have the clearance for the wider pump. Was something I thought I'd mention.

Good luck with getting things back in shape! Can be a challenge after a projects sits awhile and you come back to it.

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When you draw the pulley in and tighten it, some of them the outer edge of the inside of the pulley would be against the wider oil pump housing. If you still have the housing on the bench you might be able to lay them together or measure it. If you have it bolted together take a prybar and make sure you can still turn the motor at the flywheel, if the pulley is against you should be able to tell. I think you can tell at the front too that it won't go in quite flush but it's been a bit since I've seen one.

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  Thanks for the heads up! I see how that could happen. New balancer from Ag Parts had a taper at the beginning. Worked fine with the pump from Abilene. Had no idea how bad the rubber was until I got the new one. Money well spent.

  The CIH order for every seal gasket and o-ring that could leak oil on the MFV did not go so well. Received a box of o-rings for $150. I was bad mad and ordered the $50 kit from Abilene I ran across a couple of days ago. Called the CIH guy and told him I was unhappy and what I had done. Told him I was unhappy and just wanted to left him know. He said we had a misunderstanding. Sent me a return slip and said he will credit those. Never expected that. He is probably young but is trying to do a good job and was quick. Thank I will try to stay with them and ask for parts brake downs for future orders.

  Let the air way down on the front tires in order to pull the sections together with channel lock pliers. Then aired them back up. This morning the right one was flat and the side wall busted open.    No way!  Look at all the tread on that. It is almost brand new and I remember when I bought them. That was only um well maybe 16 years ago. Cheap 2nd line tires anyway. They are not very tough. New neighbors survey stake took out the other one.  That ends todays fun.

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  No 1066 work this weekend. 

  I read that some people have tractors that came with no lift arms. These have very worn ball sockets on the front of the lower arms. The crosses at the back of the upper arm were totally worn out. We cut them with a torch during disassembly. One of the threaded pins at the bottom toward the center is really bad. If those are of any interest to anyone send me a freight company pickup sheet. I will strap them on a pallet for you. 

  If you need some other parts that go with those off the donor tractor that would require a little cash. Have to pay folks to do that myself. 

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 Got it fired up the other day. Hydraulics came right to life after let it blow that valve out of the bottom of the multi function valve. Replaced the o - ring and put it back together.

  I mentioned bad advice in a previous post but that man is the one that told me how to do the valve deal to prime the system. I may have misunderstood him about taking the side cover off but that is what I did.  

  Could not find my latest tractor pictures but this is my grandson. I worry about what he will do with his buddies when he gets older.  If in their free time it is blow cheep paint on an IHC and put Peterbilt emblems  I will be happy.

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  Had not quite finished the project but we had to make hay. Someone else was running it. When I got on it the next day it had no clutch free play and I side lined it.

  After reading posts here I got that worked out today as well as the torque amplifier adjustment. We put some insulation board stuff under the deck plate also. Hope that helps as it gets really hot here.

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