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td-6 let the games begin!


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I thought it would be about the, the head was about 160+ when I pulled it. Thanks! Got the left clutch to break free today so another gain. Right clutch just doesn't feel good, like the spring is broke.

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I think that would be way to soft and wear away in no time, you could probably get machined, helps if you knew someone and then harden, would be wise to make pins too if going that route 

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On 6/15/2021 at 9:26 AM, busted knuckles said:

made a lot of gains on the critter, but the tracks are really bad. Looking for ideas on redoing bushing by welding two piece pipe halves maybe?

...not a good idea.....unless you only want to drive around a parade ground...once in awhile...

....As Hardtail  mentioned.,    part replacements as you envisaged.......Quote...""pipe halves , maybe ""need to be hardened ..if they are going to survive...........and the next issue with that idea , is the 'pounding '   of those sprocket teeth, peen out those shells , and they will come adrift at the welds..

Some years gone, shell replacements were available....We had a very knowledgeable bloke on here  who had used these factory shells, and was happy with them...but that was contrary  to my experience at the local Caterpillar  dealership....they seemed to be a total waste of time..

There is no easy fix for track chains that are getting past their use by date.....however, if the chains are worn, as badly as you think they are....good sprockets are a must.....A near new or new profile sprocket will not climb out of the worn track chain...like the knackered  sprocket will...this applies to  forward motion, with worn rollers and no stone gaurds, it is very easy for that worn sprocket to climb up on the side of the rail, on a turn...;;bingo !!!....track replacement with that bloody great "C" frame to contend with......

A good Welder is your friend.....both the welding machine and the operator....Sprockets can be built back to new spec....PROVIDING   you can access  a 'template'  to accurately build them up , with weld and a few other little tricks...Bottom Rollers are easy...  .Carrier rollers are easier   still....as is the front idler.. We have a TD9-91series with some plastic/nylon stuff , machineable of course...used as bushes in Carrier rollers and both front idlers...  I give this old girl frequent exercise.....

And your last essential item is stone gaurds.....track gaurds, if you wish....Pictured D6B  of mine, with totally knackered chains, but excellent stone gaurds..on hill work....chains always stayed where they were meant to be.....

Picture of both machines.....  If I can offer more specific help...just yell out  ...:)

Mike

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11 hours ago, supermechanic said:

Set of td6 pads and chains on epay . $2250

 way out west in Kaliforny.

shipping would be horrendous.

May be cheapest money and time spent getting it done properly.

  Tony

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Been there, done that, got the prize.

 As in, 30 years back,I spent a whole summer welding up 10 rollers, two sprockets and two idlers.

 I really did not need the welding practice.

 Weld all day at work, weld all weekend at home. Got old after that.

 I lost interest in the project, and just picked it up again in 2018.

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At my day job I bored to size 100 s of welded up bores on loaders, hoes , etc. This can achieve near 100% renew. Then use a proper bushing that can be changed before you wear into the bore next time. Some contractors would do the welding them selves before bringing it in to be machined. That saves you a ton of $. A good name mig welder with .030 wire and CO2 shield gas would be OK. And a 60% duty cycle or so is common on good small welder. A good Welder can do it with a cheap stik machine but it takes much more skill. The bushings should be of similar to factory to the greatest ex-stint possible, especially on the under carriage. I have a couple old IH crawlers that I have repaired several things on. Just about every part I touch is made from heat treated steal (high Carbon). I also notice that most pins are ******* size like 1/32" over a nominal size. It makes it hard find ready made stock. A decent lathe will cost you now a save you a fortune. In the mean time find out what the Foreman at the local Machine Shop likes for lunch. I would make steering clutches and brakes my priority before spent much time on tracks. You have come a long way with machine, you should be proud. I hope you have some youth in the neighborhood to share your accomplishments with.

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Wow! Not expecting all the answers, thank! What I had in mind was to use 4140 sch.80 tubing and have a machine shop mill grooves in it from both sides. Picture a v-groove that goes about 0.010 from all the way thru and the tubing cut to bushing length. At home I nip the last of it to split it and clamp it back together over the pin, easy weld already prepped and should get me through the few little projects that I have for it. I know that I will have to build up the sprockets at least on the drive sides, I have a Hobart 225 gas that should work fine.

I figure that it took 72 years to create that much wear, if what I do last five it's more than I need. Thanks again for the interest and answers.

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Just now, busted knuckles said:

P.s. great pics Mike and really good looking rigs there. Dana

Set of td6 pads and chains on epay . $2250

 way out west in Kaliforny.

shipping would be horrendous. $2100 more than I have and $1500 more than I have in the machine to date.

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The 4140 is a high quality alloy, if you can get 4130 instead it is best welding alloy in this class of steel. I recommend preheat apx450 to 500 deg. and keep hot for a bit after. Bo aware of shrink it will take when welded down two sides. I am sure you will let us know how it comes out. Good luck

 

 

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busted knuckles...

..picture of a TD9   sprocket...that was restored to its former glory.......back to spec, but had a template to work from....

....as taught  back in the days at the Caterpillar welding apprentice's

..how bad are your sprockets ??

Mike

 

 

 

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I'm guessing that they used to load trucks with it at some time. The hydraulics will lift well over 8' with the bucket on, pull a couple hoses with unions and slide the blade on. I was surprised at how fast the hydraulics were and if I leave them off the ground, they are in the same spot in the morning. 

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On 6/18/2021 at 3:23 AM, Tonyinca said:

May be cheapest money and time spent getting it done properly.

  Tony

...sadly...having looked at the state of your chains...the bush's   in particular...Tony  is correct.....

I would not even consider welding  anything in there....and if you are determined to go through  with that exersise...how the heck are you going to ''repair'' those bush's   without removing the grousers'..??

Short answer is you would find it damn near impossible to weld anything in there.....efficiently....

I have been involved with tracks on crawler  tractor's, since I was 19 yrs old..... and in the last forty plus years   excavator's....Have been through good and bad times....when things had to be cobbled together....Without   the Caterpillar "training ground "  in terms of becoming a usefull   welder.....Possibly wouldn't have come through this as well as  we ultimately managed.....

I have seen many, many sets of stuffed chains...those of your's are right up there  with as bad as they get....also hard to read  from your pics, exactly how much 'meat'  left on the rails....I would assume , very little given the loading  that the ponderous bucket/blade combo is placing on that undercarriage....

If the rest of the wee crawler   is OK.....it would be worth  ''biting that bullet" and  trying to find replacement   chains...I would have thought those California   chains were rather on the expensive side....however...the ''labour hours '' that would be required to ''cobble up those bush's''...even with a bloke with    David  Finck 's knowledge of appropriate ''material '' and weld methods ..to assist......those labour hours would be horrendous......

...just my opinion ......good luck !!

Mike

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On 6/18/2021 at 6:00 AM, busted knuckles said:

Not pretty, but not that bad either. Here are a few pics.

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i would say BAD and not pretty. basically junk. look for a parts unit.

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4 hours ago, rustred said:

i would say BAD and not pretty. basically junk. look for a parts unit.

at least I tried to be a bit diplomatic.....:) .Ol' busted knuckles has  put a lot of work into that machine.....and  ,sadly   he neglected  the most obvious wear factor  on the old girl.....

....If he can find some chains , that still have a couple of miles left in them.....that would be by far the most cost  effective means of having  the TD6  , ''on the road'', again......

Mike

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