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I pulled the plugs, oiled the cylinders, pulled the valve cover and shot oil on everything and pulled the filter and forced oil into the passages. All before turning anything.

 

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Well here it is, my wallet drainer that I have to bring home. I was driving down a back road and caught sight of this critter under a falling barn. Two weeks later of sleepless nights and I went back

It coughed, it burped, it gagged, it farted!----------- and then purred like a kitten on diesel!!!!!!!! gotta go to town and get parts for the return fuel line, it's leaking like a hose bib.

IIITTTT'SSS ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!  I pulled all the plugs again heated the cylinders/dried them and low and behold it started on gas. I only let it run for less than a minute because the goose neck for wat

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i have a suspicion that something other than the engine is preventing it turning. that is why i said try it backwards. maybe you left a wrench inside? it was parked running, it was turning over  , you worked on it and this happened. engine wont get stuck just like that. how cold is it there?

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I have to agree on the being strange part. If I hadn't been turning it over prior I would say ok. I think that I will pull the front pump and undo the pressure plate before I open the pan up. I was in gas while cranking with the starter, but not sure when I was hand cranking. It did turn backward a little but froze that way also in about a quarter turn.

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also one more thing, remove the starter as the bendix might be stuck and that will make it appear the engine is stuck. sometimes they get stuck in the flywheel.

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4 hours ago, busted knuckles said:

Thanks, but I already opened the floor and that is all ok.

check the starter and i bet thats the problem.it has to be removed so the bendix retracts. i have had this happen lots on one w6  tractor. 

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  • 5 weeks later...

Well I had the pan off and all looked good, fudged back and forth for a day and finally turned over. I put the battery in and spun it with the starter and buried the oil gauge so definitely getting oil. Put the plugs in and got a little smoke and a few pops out of it, so pulled them back out and ran compression. It was super low in all cylinders (40-80psi) I pulled the intake tube and shot oil/gas mix into the diesel valve chambers with a tube and air, then checked again and got 90-120. Then I put the plugs back in, got a couple of promising tries and it locked back up. Going to pull the head this week and see what I find, might be a squirrel nest in there as far as I know. If it doesn't go well, I may be a real good source for td6 parts.

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i am pretty sure pulling the head wont help. can you turn it in reverse once it sticks? plus is the clutch engaged or disengaged when your cranking and it sticks?

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6 minutes ago, busted knuckles said:

The clutch is on my bench, pulled the intake and exhaust and a whole lot of dirt in number 1 exhaust chamber.

well you did not give that info, and yes important. as it could have been sucked into the cyl. as i also asked ... can you turn it backwards once stuck? and is there coolant it it ?

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Yes I can turn it backward with effort, then it frees for half a turn. Heads up away now and same thing. Need to rig something to finish pulling the head, not a kid any more. I shot oil in the cylinders and no difference. Going to wait till head is off for more info. 

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1 hour ago, rustred said:

well you did not give that info, and yes important. as it could have been sucked into the cyl. as i also asked ... can you turn it backwards once stuck? and is there coolant it it ?

I didn't have that info til today!

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

been remodeling the bath for the wife. Heads off and on the bench and cylinders look good. Had a thought in the night and might be it, I think that adding some oil and fuel may have pushed dirt into the ring gap and behind the rings. Cylinders are always a little conical and when it pushed the rings out and they couldn't go back it bound up. hope to work on it this week, tried to ridge ream the cylinders and my reamer doesn't cut far enough down. Some hard stell there or my reamer is super dull.

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2 hours ago, busted knuckles said:

been remodeling the bath for the wife. Heads off and on the bench and cylinders look good. Had a thought in the night and might be it, I think that adding some oil and fuel may have pushed dirt into the ring gap and behind the rings. Cylinders are always a little conical and when it pushed the rings out and they couldn't go back it bound up. hope to work on it this week, tried to ridge ream the cylinders and my reamer doesn't cut far enough down. Some hard stell there or my reamer is super dull.

why are you removing the ridge?? leave that alone.

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2 hours ago, busted knuckles said:

If I have that much dirt in the the piston groves, wouldn't you pull and clean them or just keep flushing them out?

not on that engine , u do the bare minimum , plus its not dirt it will be carbon. i would just use an air gun and solvent and keep blowing out the edges of pistons. once its running put it to work  hard that will clean it up.  dont know why your removing ridges? do more harm than good.  plus a picture would give better details . can you catch your finger nail on the ridge?  even if you pull pistons and replace rings i still would leave it alone . that slight ridge wont hurt a thing. plus remember removing metal is removing compression. i still say that sticking in the engine is something else. have you found a head gasket ? pretty sure they must be way over 200.00. the best thing you could do now is remove all valves, clean them up good then inspect the seats and valve faces for wear. i sure would not be removing the head and then sticking it back on with out an inspection. plus i could be cracked between the valves also. the more you take apart the more money is required to put back together.  but like to see this dirt your talking about.

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It had an open exhaust for 20+years, at a 90 at least. I think I cleaned out a dozen mud dobber nests and a few leaves when I pulled it and vacuumed the manifold. 

The valves are out and laying on my bench, didn't look to bad on carbon build up. Yes it does have hairline cracks between the intake and exhaust valve, I need to rig some kind of larger vat to put the head in for cleaning. I could rebuild a 350 Chevy or 396 with my eyes closed when I was a lot younger, but didn't play with diesels. You can feel the ridge with your nail and If I were to remove pistons for inspection, it would need to go. I am working in the yard by myself so not very fast as a old fart, will try to get the flywheel back on today if I can and the starter in to spin it a few times. On a td6/d248 the flywheel just sets over the studs doesn't it? I mean is there a balance factor with which stud in which hole? Thanks! 

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i see that head is in pretty bad shape. needs a complete going over, seats, valves, maybe guides. that valve in the picture is really bad . plus that head has had coolant getting into the combustion chamber for a long time by looking at those pits.  pretty sure the head is a 1500.00 job. probably why this unit got parked. the cyl's dont look too bad from what i see. now i see its good thing it came apart... never work like that. as for the flywheel i am sure they one go on one way, many years since i had one off.

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I'll take some more pics after clean up, the pictures make it look worse than it is. As for number three, yes was getting antifreeze in there for sure, but the oil didn't have any in it and the radiator was still full.

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