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Well here it is, my wallet drainer that I have to bring home. I was driving down a back road and caught sight of this critter under a falling barn. Two weeks later of sleepless nights and I went back and talked to the guy, he gave me a history and price, I gave him the money. 20+ years in the shed, but said it drove in there at that time and wasn't used that much--- (track links look like 20000 miles on them. Should bring it home this week, I got the brakes un-stuck after having it pulled out of the shed by a really great farmer with an awesome JD. He hooked onto the front and broke the chain, so went to the rear and picked it off the ground and slid it out. Not started yet, but will tunn over with a bar at the clutch. 

I'm new here and have been reading posts for a few week, great place and good folks. Hope to get some help if needed and may be able to do the same in return. Here is a couple pics of the road warrior looking beast, I really think the bucket system weighs as much as the dozer.

 

 

 

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Well here it is, my wallet drainer that I have to bring home. I was driving down a back road and caught sight of this critter under a falling barn. Two weeks later of sleepless nights and I went back

It coughed, it burped, it gagged, it farted!----------- and then purred like a kitten on diesel!!!!!!!! gotta go to town and get parts for the return fuel line, it's leaking like a hose bib.

IIITTTT'SSS ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!  I pulled all the plugs again heated the cylinders/dried them and low and behold it started on gas. I only let it run for less than a minute because the goose neck for wat

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Welcome to the forum!

First of all, congratulations with your purchase. That is a fine looking TD-6! Can't wait to see your journey on this machine.

Never seen one of these bucket systems before. Looks interesting.

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Welcome to the forum with the project.  Interesting bucket system.  You may be right on the weight comment.  Have fun with it.

Dennis 

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well u have a job ahead of you now. quite the find. never saw a loader crawler like that. need to go right through the fuel system,  even the rack in the pump will be stuck , quite sure.  get some lube in the cyl's and so on. that looks like one slow operating loader. agree with the loader weighing as much as the tractor. but interesting.

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So far I have pulled the valve cover and shot oil on all the lifters and valves, pulled plugs and put oil/diesel in the cylinders, cleaned the gas sediment bulb, fixed on fuel line, freed turning brakes, greased everything I can reach and emptied the breather. Oh! and got the mud dobbers out of the exhaust. What I am looking at next is why the starter won't engage (manual Bendixx not pulling gear in) and how to free the engine clutch or clutch brake. It is in released position and will not move in, I will pull that cover over the clutch to figure out the starter and clutch. I hope---

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48 minutes ago, nomorejohndeere said:

Hi lift

almost looks overloader capable

but no canopy so surely not

 

 

He said it goes pretty high, also I got the blade setup with it.

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19 hours ago, busted knuckles said:

So far I have pulled the valve cover and shot oil on all the lifters and valves, pulled plugs and put oil/diesel in the cylinders, cleaned the gas sediment bulb, fixed on fuel line, freed turning brakes, greased everything I can reach and emptied the breather. Oh! and got the mud dobbers out of the exhaust. What I am looking at next is why the starter won't engage (manual Bendixx not pulling gear in) and how to free the engine clutch or clutch brake. It is in released position and will not move in, I will pull that cover over the clutch to figure out the starter and clutch. I hope---

you need to pay attention to the diesel side. the gas side is easy. remove and clean diesel sediment at engine and the 2 fuel filters should be changed also.  unhook throttle  linkage at injection pump and check the lever for movement. if you have very little movement the rack is stuck. that will require some pump disassembly. make sure the air cleaner oil is checked and cleaned. the injection pump takes engine oil in it. needs about 1 pint till it comes out the check point, the brass wingnut. also all  most every transfer pumps on those engines will leak diesel into the injection pump oil. keep an eye on the oil level and keep it drained down. the transfer pump will require seals. once running on gas that is when you bleed the diesel system. AND, make sure you have the air cleaner top of and a small piece of plywood to cover it to kill the engine if you have a run away. that is the only way you will be able to shut it down if thinks go bad. i dont know what your experience is on these engines. parts are obsolete so take care on everything you do. important... cool down on diesel for at least 15 minutes after working it, and shut down on diesel. many people say to switch to gas before shut down but that is not correct.. gas burns hotter than diesel . also no need to open the small gas valves as they must be kept closed to prevent warping them after shut down. these are very good engines but need to look after them. many are known for cracked heads due to low coolant and improper cooling.  and yes the clutches could be stuck, normal when sitting that long.

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Thank you for all the information. I have changed the oil in the injector pump and greased and oiled everything in the book except inner steering clutch fitting. I have yet to start full fuel cleaning, went after filters today and they didn't have them, so will order. I have the parts book and owners manuals and have down loaded the service manual for it. I have always been a wrench turner, but not so much on diesels. 

I have watched a lot of different videos about different problems and read a lot of the great advise on here, so some what prepped. Good point on the run away and I will do so. Thanks!

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yes it would be ok to switch to gas . i gave that info incase it did not happen. one a regular diesel engine the only way to get them stopped is to cut the air off.

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I really appreciate the information, in case some strange air leak exists I have two options. Hoping to get a call about the move today and will go after the blade, hope to drag it up on a smaller trailer. I'm guessing it at 8-1100 lbs. trailer should handle it fine. 

 

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Never seen a loader arrangement like that before, that bucket is in the next zip code, what are your plans for it and where does the blade attach? I would disconnect the injection pump linkage like rr suggested and see if the lever travels freely, I wouldn’t overly force it if it doesn’t. Safe travels today you certainly have found a unique example 🤔

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Thanks! I sure can't find another photo like it (probably with good reason) sure is stout but way out there. All the way back near the tractor, it separates and the blade mounts like all the others with side pins. You can adjust the blade six ways with the side pins and vertical pins manually. 

I did have a $300 D-17 diesel years back that had injector pump problems. Bought it out of a back yard, said it would run on start fluid but not diesel. I fought it for a week and never got fuel so I pulled the pump and dis-assembled and cleaned it. That is when I noticed I only had half of the main shaft, I ground down the shaft and welded it back together. Would you believe, I used the tractor for five years and sold it with the property when I moved. 

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I U frame looks about like many others. The bucket on the other hand is like non other I have seen. I would look the "pockets" over that the loader is pined to U frame on. Looking for signs of being modified. As well as the dozer blade. 

 

Is there enough weight on the rear to balance the tractor out with a full bucket of dirt? And if it all does balance, I would think the undercarriage is way over loaded. Right after Cat started making their own loaders and dozer blades they decided loaders needed more undercarriage than a dozer.

 

Very interesting piece of history as it looks like a neat build even if it is home built. Be generous with the grease if you use it much.

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Way to much weight in the bucket system, going to blade and redesign that part. Got it home yesterday and picked up the blade, I don't think my trailer would have handled the dozer attached. Pulled the filters and checked the move on the injector arm, it was fine. As for filters the fuel were great, but the oil was really bad. I can't read the oil but think the same filter was used in both fuel and the oil, can that be?

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Not sure on the filters but I doubt they are same part number or micron rating 

Looks like meat still left on the cutting edge, is the C frame still intact from the loader mount?

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fuel filters and oil filters are NOT the same.  the primary and secondary fuel filters were different also. one was like a woven ball of string, ( the primary}.  now both are the same filter and need to make sure the primary filter has the adapter for the bottom or it wont fit properly. it looks like that oil filter is the big one like the 9 series takes. do you have the serial number for this unit. you will get scared when you find out the price of those fuel filters! and any parts man familiar such as case ih will tell you oil and fuel takes different filters. best place to go for them also.

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Well! Looking like filters are not going to be that important. I freed up the clutch and heated the ring gear up so that I could work it back in place. pressured oil into the lower end and turned it over. It made about 10 revolutions and froze up, think a bearing is seized. I had turned it over by hand at least twenty times while working on the clutch with no problems, going to have to regroup. Anyone slapped a four cylinder gas motor in one of these? 

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1 hour ago, busted knuckles said:

Well! Looking like filters are not going to be that important. I freed up the clutch and heated the ring gear up so that I could work it back in place. pressured oil into the lower end and turned it over. It made about 10 revolutions and froze up, think a bearing is seized. I had turned it over by hand at least twenty times while working on the clutch with no problems, going to have to regroup. Anyone slapped a four cylinder gas motor in one of these? 

well the first thing is to get some oil into the cyl's before trying to turn it over. those cyl's are bone dry and with some rust in them its like having grit in there.  the oil pump will pick up oil and oil the brgs. but not the cyl's till the engine is running they will get lube from slash oil. as i said oil in cyl's is #1. i used a syphon spray gun and with the gas valves open spray it in through plug holes and it get all over . the  mccormick W6 and farmall MD tractor engine fit in them . put it in reverse and give it a slight tug backwards and see if the fan moves , but just a bit meaning 1/4 turn or so. then go from there.

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