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On 2/18/2023 at 8:03 AM, hardtail said:

If it is an E I think they had a different pitch than standard 20B if that's what you need? Starting to forget some of those details anymore 🥺

Are you kidding, you know almost everything 

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I had planned to start this machine today, but it didn’t work out. I got the turbo drain line installed without much “tweaking”. But, the supply line was not a success. After about an hour of trying to “finesse” that line into some position that would work, I have decided it will not fit. I think a braided stainless line will be necessary. 

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  • 3 months later...

I was able to spend some time on this machine tonight since it rained. It has been pretty dry here and I have just not had time to mess with it since my last post. I had previously decided that the supply line to the new turbo would not work, but decided to give it another try before admitting defeat. I was able to bend it in a way that got it to fit, which was a small miracle. That line was the last piece of reassembly for this stage. I thought good, I’m ready to hear this thing run again. But, sigh, no such luck. I put a good battery in it and hit the starter button… nothing. I cleaned up a bunch of connections and still nothing. I ran a new wire to the button and can make the starter solenoid “click”, but that’s all I could get. I will have an employee help me with it tomorrow to see if the starter posts are hot or not. I was frustrated and gave up after doing all I felt I could by myself. I just needed another set of hands for some troubleshooting. I guess we’ll see how it goes if I can spend anymore time on it. I fear that the starter is shot. As usual it looks like a total nightmare to get off and I’m afraid I won’t have time until after we get the wheat cut, if that is the case. More to follow. 

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I would thing 1 battery should at least make it try to spin but wasn't the B 24v? 

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1 hour ago, pede said:

I would thing 1 battery should at least make it try to spin but wasn't the B 24v? 

I think my manual said that it was originally 24V. When I bought it, it only had one 12V battery and always started easily. I guess it has been converted to 12V? 

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I pulled the starter on m 150 recently enough to remember well. I like the locking extensions for that under side bolt on many starters and a good stiff universal six point. I bet you can clean that starter up and carefully file the commentator, maybe a nose bushing and it will go like heck. Good luck 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, it never rains here anymore so I took Sunday off from spraying and wanted to get this thing figured out. I am happy to say that I did get it figured out, but am embarrassed to say what the solution was. As @pede had said, 250’s were 24 volt. I knew this from reading my manual, but I thought that this machine had been converted to 12 volt. I was using my voltmeter to test connections and I kept getting 18.5 volts on some of them. I was sure that my digital voltmeter was on the fritz and could not figure out what was going on. So, I started following cables and found another 12 volt battery under the seat that I had no idea was there. I put my jump pack on the mystery battery and lo and behold she fired right up. It sounds great, but the old straight pipe was welded on to what was left of the exhaust elbow. So, I’ll need a new one to keep the smoke out of my face. Now on to the next problem(s). I’m really glad I got to hear it run again, though my ears are ringing after only sitting in the seat for 15 minutes. 

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That's got to be a good feeling  to get it running! Glad you're making some progress!

DWF

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50 minutes ago, just Dave said:

Congratulations on the battery find. It’s hard to get motivated to work on tracks when it don’t run.

I guess I was just thinking too “modern”. I could see that the battery box next to the seat originally had two batteries in it.  The box under the seat also had room for two batteries. So it originally had four six volt batteries, which I should have at least considered as a possibility. I just wasn’t thinking old enough and thought that the box next to the seat had two 12 volt batteries in it originally. It hadn’t been turned over in a year and started immediately. 

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  • 4 months later...

I waste a lot of time looking for parts for this thing on the Internet at night. I just do some searches every so often to see what pops up. I was sorting through some very long lists on F P Smith’s website and stumbled across some things I hadn’t found before. 
 

These numbers are shown as in stock and listed to fit a TD20C. These are the correct numbers that would also fit a 250 from prior research and some posts from others on here, right? If they do actually have these, how many single flange rollers could I put on it? If they have any double flange rollers, I can’t find them. I assume double flange is unobtanium. Does anyone know what those numbers are that are listed as track assembly?

IMG_0424.thumb.jpeg.10268341f48bfb1b2b340c9887cfe453.jpeg
 

These numbers are listed under TD18. Does anyone know if any of these numbers would do me any good? TD18 & TD20 take the same bottom rollers, right?
 

IMG_0426.jpeg.c978e86e1c0ff2d5103e3523e8158fe8.jpeg

These rail assemblies are listed under TD18. Does anyone know what exactly they are?
 

IMG_0427.jpeg.6d83258f27c5aa5a040a333c602b74c2.jpeg

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 11/14/2023 at 9:28 PM, Dirt_Floor_Poor said:

I waste a lot of time looking for parts for this thing on the Internet at night. I just do some searches every so often to see what pops up. I was sorting through some very long lists on F P Smith’s website and stumbled across some things I hadn’t found before. 
 

These numbers are shown as in stock and listed to fit a TD20C. These are the correct numbers that would also fit a 250 from prior research and some posts from others on here, right? If they do actually have these, how many single flange rollers could I put on it? If they have any double flange rollers, I can’t find them. I assume double flange is unobtanium. Does anyone know what those numbers are that are listed as track assembly?

IMG_0424.thumb.jpeg.10268341f48bfb1b2b340c9887cfe453.jpeg
 

These numbers are listed under TD18. Does anyone know if any of these numbers would do me any good? TD18 & TD20 take the same bottom rollers, right?
 

IMG_0426.jpeg.c978e86e1c0ff2d5103e3523e8158fe8.jpeg

These rail assemblies are listed under TD18. Does anyone know what exactly they are?
 

IMG_0427.jpeg.6d83258f27c5aa5a040a333c602b74c2.jpeg

I am surprised at no response . Maybe @mike newmanor@hardtailor @Rawleigh99 or @ray54 haven’t seen the post. 

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Honestly, I was trying to remember this yesterday. I think the later 18's and 20's all had the same undercarriage, only difference was the number of links, later serial number 20C's went to 8.5 pitch but the rollers didn't change. I also think my 250c had all double flanges. The last 10years I went full bore, didn't buy many rollers, built a jig to weld the old ones up.   

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If I remember correctly TD20C introduced HD track which was a different larger pitch, also for a brief period standard was available which would be TD18-20B of the shorter. TD175 was a totally different pitch again. You could probably run some SF rollers in the middle but depending on what you are doing with the 250 DF would be preferred they were quite a beast.

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Early serial number 20c's had 7.5 pitch, later went to 8.5 pitch, use to know the split by heart because we had both, memory is failing a bit. Early had a steel firewall, later had fiberglass.       

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It seems to me on the 175c loader I had that the rollers were all double flange because of the amount of twisting and turning you do with a loader.  Seems like the safe thing to do would be go all double flange on the 250 and then you don't have to worry about it.

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On 12/5/2023 at 7:10 AM, Rawleigh99 said:

It seems to me on the 175c loader I had that the rollers were all double flange because of the amount of twisting and turning you do with a loader.  Seems like the safe thing to do would be go all double flange on the 250 and then you don't have to worry about it.

The only reason I brought up the single flange is because there are possibly some available. I have not run across any double flange new or used. To get double flange will require Cat rollers unless the roller fairy brings me some. Such is life. It has what were once double flange rollers on it now. 

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Maybe build them up, there have been a few setups over the years with homebuilt welding positioners, half the challenge was keeping the housing cool you didn't cook out the seals, the other thing is good track guards to keep it on and in place

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1 hour ago, hardtail said:

Maybe build them up, there have been a few setups over the years with homebuilt welding positioners, half the challenge was keeping the housing cool you didn't cook out the seals, the other thing is good track guards to keep it on and in place

Way back when this ordeal started, we discussed it quite a bit. Some rollers on here have no bearing/bushing left. Some have the flanges completely worn off. It has been run way, way to long to fix some of them. 

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